374 PEEP INTO CENTRAL ASIA.-THE RIVER TESS. Having with some difficulty ascended one of the summits which pushed its head into the region of snow, I had a beautiful and most extensive view. Immediately beneath lay the Oubsa-Noor; far to the southwest was seen Oulan-Koum Desert and the Aral-Noor; to the south lay Tchagan Tala, and the ridges descending down to the Gobi; and to the southeast we looked upon the crests of the Khangai Mountains-several peaks covered with snow. This was a peep far into Central Asia, and over a region never beheld by any European. A dim and misty outline of Bogda Oöla was seen rising above the Gobi, and the vast desert stretched away till lost in haze. Descending from this lofty peak, we sought a place to ford the torrent, and happily found one near a beautiful waterfall. Large blocks of fine white marble were lying in this torrent, and farther up the stream were very high precipices of this valuable material, untouched by man. Much of this country is extremely rugged and wild, and I sketched many beautiful scenes in the Tangnou chain. It is only in the deep valleys, and ravines that trees are found; in most parts the mountains are even destitute of shrubs on their southern faces, but on many of the slopes there is a thick carpet of short grass, interspersed with a great variety of flowers. Three kinds of iris were blooming a deep purple and white, a rich brown madder and white, and a very fine yellow. Large beds of pink primula were growing; a deep red and a pale yellow dianthus were scattered over the mountain sides, giving out a very delicious scent. We continued our journey nearly due east, and in eleven days more crossed the head-waters of the River Tess. Following the mountain chain farther south brought us toward the sources of the Selenga and Djabakan, where it was expected we should find the Kalkas. The Kalmucks had often met some of these tribes on the Tchoui Steppe, and they now expected that we should be treated with hospitality; if not, our arms would at least command respect. During this ramble our camp-fires had burned on the banks of many a picturesque mountain stream, which had several times supplied us with fish speared by the Kalmuck knives. Hook and line fishing was too slow a process with these people; instead, three or four men went into pools, driving the fish up the stream, while the other Kalmucks speared them from the bank; and they PAGAN TEMPLE.-SAN-GHIN-DALAI. 377 were seldom more than half an hour in producing a fine dinner of fish. After passing the River Tess we rode along the foot of the mountains, sometimes over a sandy plain, which often compelled us to ascend higher to obtain grass for our horses and secure game for ourselves. In one of these rambles after a dinner I came upon the small and picturesque lake of Ikeougoun, which lies in the mountains to the north of San-ghin-dalai, and is held in great veneration by the Kalkas. They have erected a small wooden temple on the shore, and here they come to sacrifice, offering up milk, butter, and the fat of the animals, which they burn on the little altars. The large rock in the lake is with them a sacred stone, on which some rude figures are traced; and on the bank opposite they place rods with small silk flags, having inscriptions printed on them. Some of the snowy peaks of the Tangnou Mountains are seen from this spot. In eight days we reached San-ghin-dalai, a beautiful lake about fifteen versts in length, varying from four to six in breadth. Here we encamped for two days to rest our horses and afford 378 DRENCHING RAIN.-KALKAS DWELLINGS. me time to sketch the scenery. We were now near the source of the Selenga, and had not yet met with a Kalkas. Having accomplished my object in visiting this lake, we left it on a very rainy morning, and turned to the westward, intending to reach the River Tess about midway between its source and Oubsa-Noor. The Kalmucks began to fear we should find no people; at all events, we should cross a caravan track on our route, and might fall in with some of the tribes. We had several days of drenching rain, which rendered our journey disagreeable and the country extremely uninteresting. The Tangnou Mountains were obscured by a dense fog, and our lodgings were on the wet ground, our saddle-cloths forming both beds and shelter. In the small ravines were found a few bushes, which enabled us to make fire for our cooking and tea-kettle; notwithstanding our hardships, not a man of my little band murmured at his lot. Late in the afternoon of the sixth day after leaving Sanghin-dalai we descended into a small valley covered with rich grass, which our horses appeared to look upon with delight. Many camels were feeding near us, and we could see several yourts in the distance-a most welcome sight to all. Across the valley we could also discern a herd of horses feeding on the grassy slopes beyond the yourts, and a large flock of sheep not far from them. We turned our horses and rode toward the Kalkas dwellings, and as we approached we saw two men mount and ride toward us. This indicated a peaceful mission, and presently we met. There was much conversation between them and Tchuck-a-boi, after which one of them galloped back to his friends, the other remained and followed with us. It was not long before we perceived three other Kalkas riding to meet and escort us to the aoul. On reaching the yourts, an elderly man took hold of the reins of my bridle, gave his hand to aid me in dismounting, and then led the way into his dwelling, in which were two women and four children. This was Arabdan, the chief of the aoul, who received me, and was now preparing to be hospitable by handing me a bowl of tea taken out of a large iron kettle. It was brick-tea mixed with milk, butter, salt, and flour, which gave it the appearance of thick soup, but was not bad. supplied with this beverage. The Cossacks and Kalmucks were also |