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several others around it, all belonging to the tribe of the sultan. A stream of clear water was winding in many a turn along the steppe, and thousands of cattle were scattered about on its banks, giving me a most vivid idea of the days of the patriarchs; many Kirghis were galloping about in their wild costumes, adding much interest to the scene. I was ushered into my new dwelling by the chief of the aoul, when tea was served. The yourt was soon filled by both sexes, who crowded in to take a peep at the strangers. In due time the substantial repast was ready, and a Cossack having brought me my supper, all left the place to take their own. Mine was soon ended, when I turned down on the voilock and slept.

In the morning fresh steeds were neighing and prancing round the yourt, and one having been led up for me by the chief, I mounted. In a few minutes all my party were in their saddles, and after saying “Aman-bul” we turned to the south, rode across the stream, and left these pastoral people forever.

CHAPTER XXVII.

TCHIN-SI AND SYAN-SHAN.

A BRIGHT sun was rising behind us, but his rays had not yet touched the snowy peaks in our front. As we rode on I watched for the first bright gleam that lighted up the ice and snow on Bogda Oöla, which one of the men had pointed out to me. Presently his crest was tipped with a crimson glow, gradually descending and changing into yellow, and then to a silvery white. The sun shone upon his head for many minutes before any of the lower peaks were touched by his rays. After this new peaks were shooting into light every few seconds, till at last the whole chain was a mass of dazzling white, while all the lower ranges were clothed in hazy gloom. There is something marvelously grand in these effects, and in the changes which pass over such stupendous mountain masses. Having observed them, I examined the addition to my band, which now consisted of twenty-five men and forty-five horses. Four of the sultan's men carried long lances and battleaxes, the others battle-axes only; and their horseskin coats, with

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the flowing manes and helmet-shaped caps, gave them a singularly savage aspect. The Kirghis selected as my guide across the desert was a man about forty years of age, with a good, intelligent face, and a strong, athletic frame. He always accompanied the sultan on his journeys, knew the routes in every direction, and had led several expeditions against Koubaldos and other plundering bands, that, he said, were in retaliation for robberies committed on their tribe. In these enterprises they had taken several men and women, which the sultan kept as slaves.

We had traveled many hours over the sandy plain, when the guide pointed out a green spot a few versts to the south, and as it possessed water and grass, we turned our horses in this direction, and soon reached it. The water was brackish, nevertheless the horses drank it; but the guide would not let them feed, as we were far from the pastures selected for our night's encampment. He informed me that we were now only eighteen hours from Tchinsi, adding that if I wished he would take me to some pastures six hours nearer the town, where I could see the mountains better, as well as a neighboring lake. He acknowledged that we might meet some Chinese robbers, but thought that they would not like to attack us, and advised that good watch should be kept over our horses in the night. By taking this route, he told me, we should pass nearer the Syan-shan, and be one day more crossing the desert. Neither Chinese robbers, nor the additional day in the desert, had any weight with me; I instantly ordered our march in the direction he pointed out, which was directly south. Again we were on a sandy plain, riding fast, as it was necessary to reach the pastures before sunset, that our horses might feed before dark.

I now observed that the mountains terminated rather abruptly on the plain, some low hills only extending to the southeast. We kept up our speed, and reached the pastures and a small lake in good time. Our guide directed his course to the farther end of this piece of water, where thick clumps of bushes were growing. We stopped close to the mouth of a small river, flowing from the southwest, where we found a delightful spot for our encampment; there were thousands of water-fowl flying and swimming on the lake. My gun was soon in readiness, when I sallied forth to procure a supper, accompanied by Tchuck-a-boi and the Kirghis guide. The latter was greatly interested in my proceedings, as

A BEAUTIFUL DUCK.-TUMULI.

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he had never seen a gun fired. We had not gone more than fifty paces along the shore when several large snipes rose up: they were in great numbers, and many fell; twice I killed two with one barrel. Ducks were also lying in the grass, and as they rose I added several to our bag-one as large as a young goose, with beautiful plumage. His neck and breast were a bright orange, with black feathers on the top of his head; the back was a deep reddish-brown, with a bar of black across his yellow wings. The feathers on his belly were a yellowish cream-color, and his bill and legs red. His Kirghis name is "Turpan :" many were swimming on the lake. The guide was delighted when he saw the birds fall, and I believe deeply regretted that the gun had not been as well used against the Chinese bands, who give his people much trouble. We supped this evening upon snipes, ducks, and tea. Our guide arranged the watches, placing four men on duty at a time, to whom he gave instructions to wake us quietly if there was any alarm. We were not once disturbed, and I slept soundly till morning.

The horses had fed early, and soon after sunrise we started, riding along the bank of the little stream for a considerable distance, to a point where it made a sharp turn to the southeast. We continued our ride to the south for several versts, and reached a large tumulus, around which there were many of smaller dimensions. We were now within a three hours' ride of Tchin-si, and nearer the guide would not go: he had never been in the town, and had no wish to visit it. I could see the lake he had mentioned, which is a short distance from the town to the eastward. The buildings were also distinctly visible on the declivity of a hill; but there are no striking edifices or large architectural masses in a Chinese The houses are small, and of no great elevation.

town.

To the northwest of Tchin-si the Syan-shan rises into large peaks, but they do not reach the snow-line. After taking my last look at the town we turned to the northeast, and rode along the plain parallel to the mountain chain, the rugged and riven tops of which were in full view. I believe these stupendous masses were then seen and sketched for the first time by any European. We had ridden over the sandy steppe for several hours, when we reached the first elevation of this great mountain mass, which runs far out into the desert to the northeast. Ascending this, we observed a smoke about ten versts distant in a southwesterly direction.

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STEPPE GRASS.-STONY VALLEY.

The guide said that there were no good people in that region, and that if they discovered us we might be sure of a visit. Our route was now over undulating ground, formed into broad sweeping valleys, partly covered with tufts of steppe grass, growing about four feet high, and looking in the distance like rye ready for the reapers. It is so coarse that horses will not feed upon it, nor is it pleasant to ride among, as the seed pierced through our clothing.

After crossing several of these valleys, we ascended a much higher ridge covered with small stones, which rendered our ride very tedious. From the summit we looked down upon a steppe apparently twenty or thirty versts in breadth, the yellow sand giving it a sterile aspect. It extends in a northeasterly direction for a long distance, till it joins the great plain. At the foot of the hill we had to descend to a small lake twelve or fifteen versts in length, and varying in width from one to three versts. Its shores were covered with green herbage to a considerable distance from the water, and it was fed by two streams entering from the southwest, but there was no outlet. Here we stopped to rest, and feed our horses on the rich grass which covered the shore. I made another sketch of the Syan-shan, but Bogda Oöla is not well seen from this, though many other snowy peaks were visible. Early in spring this lake is much larger; the water extends far over the grassy plain, which is carried off by evaporation during the sumAs far as any moisture reaches, there we found herbage. Having passed this, we were on the arid steppe, on which not a blade of grass was growing, nor was there one living thing to be seen excepting our party. To the northeast it had the appearance of a vast sandy ocean, with a purple ridge rising up in the distance like an island on a yellow sea. It was a long ride before we reached the opposite ridge, and when on the top I observed that a narrow stony valley lay before us. This we crossed, and ascended another hill, from which we looked down upon a lake not a verst distant, and, greatly to the astonishment of our Kirghis, beheld two small aouls with camels, a large number of horses, and a few sheep. Our guide declared that we had fallen upon a band of thieves, and proposed that we should cross the valley without stopping, and seek another place to encamp, some hours distant from these men. I did not agree to this plan, telling him that it would be running away, which would give these people courage.

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TAKEN FOR ROBBERS.-HOSTILE RECEPTION.

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I ordered that we should encamp on the lake, which the Cossacks and Kalmucks thought the best plan, and we rode down toward the yourts.

We had not proceeded far when a man galloped off toward the other aoul, and all the people at this one were in great commotion. As we came nearer the yourts the women began to scream, and the men sprung on their horses, brandishing their battle-axes. It was now quite clear that they thought us robbers like themselves. Shortly two old men rode out and met us, and, seeing that we were well armed, they began to beg of us not to plunder their aoul. A pledge to this effect was instantly given, when one of them galloped back to his friends, and we slowly followed. A yourt was instantly given up to me (the supposed robber-chief), but when we reached it half a dozen women were carrying it bodily to a clean piece of grass. At this aoul there were thirteen men, and wild-looking scoundrels they were; nor would they have shown us much consideration had we been the weaker party.

Deeming it desirable to know how many men there were in the other aoul, the guide, two Cossacks, Tchuck-a-boi, and a Kalmuck accompanied me, and the two Kirghis who had met us led the way.