464 KESSIL-BACH-NOOR.-SULTAN DULEMBIE. salutation, and rode away, leaving many friends among this tribe. To gain the esteem of the Kirghis a man must be a daring rider. If he have a quick eye and an unerring hand with his rifle, they will respect and obey him; but if he once flinch at any danger, or show fear, he is lost. Our route was over low hills covered with rich pastures, on which large herds were feeding; these we soon left behind, and entered a sandy steppe. After a dreary ride, we arrived on the evening of the second day at a stony ridge, from the summit of which we beheld the lake. Kessil-bach-Noor is about one hundred versts long, and in some parts twenty to thirty versts broad. It has a flat shore to the southwest, and has hills on the northeast side. There are extensive beds of reeds and bulrushes growing on many parts of its shores, with some good pastures; but we found no Kirghis. A little before sunset we encamped on the bank of a small stream a few versts from the western end of the lake, where we passed the night in quiet. Early in the morning I made two sketches, then continued my ride in a northeasterly direction toward the Tchernoy-Irtisch, which has its source among some low hills in the region where the fabulous Great Altai is placed on all the maps of Asia. A range of hills extends to the northwest, and joins the offshoots of the Altai. We crossed several hills, some almost without vegetation, while many of the valleys were sandy and sterile. From some of these ridges we had an extensive view to the southwest, in which direction I saw the picturesque summits of the Barluck Mountains, while to the west rose the rugged crests of the Tarbogatai. Late in the afternoon we reached the river, where it was running over a rocky bed fringed on each side with small trees and bushes. After following its course for seven or eight versts, we discovered an aoul at a few versts distance, in one of the valleys. We very soon reached the herdsmen, who told us it belonged to Sultan Dulembie: the Kirghis were delighted, as he was their master's friend. One of Baspasihan's Kirghis and a herdsman went off at a gallop to announce my arrival, nor was it long before I saw a party of Kirghis galloping to meet me; they conducted me to the yourt of Dulembie, whom I found standing at the door of his dwelling ready to give me a welcome. He was an old man, with a short gray beard, a ruddy complexion, and friendly expression of coun tenance. MY KALMUCKS.-SULTAN ISHONAC KHAN. 465 There was no remarkable difference in the dwellings or costume from those of the other sultans I had visited. A large bowl of koumis was handed to me. I drank a little as a compliment to his brewing, and then gave the bowl to a Cossack, who speedily put the contents under his belt. In due course tea and supper were served, when I made an excellent repast. To my inquiries concerning our route to the Barluck Mountains and the Tarbogatai, the sultan said I could cross the steppe and reach the Barluck in nine days, and he promised to give me Kirghis guides to the aoul of Sultan Ishonac Khan, which we should reach in five days. The time had now arrived when I must part with my brave Kalmucks, who had been my faithful companions through many a day of hard toil, and in some dangers. Their route was north to their homes in the Altai, which they would reach in eight or ten days, while mine was southwest, through the country of the ancient Sungarians. Having supplied them with a good store of ammunition, I had no fear for their safety; and in the morning, after shaking hands and expressing mutual regret, we turned our horses and rode in opposite directions. My route was over low hills covered with grass, that extended about twenty versts; then we descended to the plain, which we found a sandy desert, over which the Kirghis proposed to ride fast. Sultan Dulembie had sent to accompany me eight of his men, well mounted and armed with battle-axes; therefore, with the three Cossacks and myself, we still formed a strong party. The new-comers were wild-looking fellows, evidently ready either for fight or plunder. CHAPTER XXVIII. THE SULTANS OF THE STEPPE. AFTER a rapid gallop over the dreary waste, late in the afternoon of the fifth day, after having suffered much for water, we reached the aoul of Sultan Ishonac Khan, who gave me a friendly reception. He was stout, with strongly-marked Kalmuck features, and as he claimed his descent from Genghis Khan, the owl's feather hung from the top of his cap: his costume was of Chinese G G 466 LEAVE THE SULTAN.-BITTER WATER. silk, richly embroidered. About fifty versts to the southward of this aoul rise the Barluck Mountains, lying between the Tarbogatai and the Alatou Mountains, and eastward of the Ala-kool, a small rocky chain extending about sixty versts from east to west; its breadth is about twenty-five versts, and the highest summit is three thousand feet above the plain. On the lower slopes there is pasturage, but the upper parts are bare rocks. From this aoul my route was westward, over a sandy steppe. I obtained horses from the sultan, and eight of his Kirghis to be my companions to the Tarbogatai-a four, or perhaps six days' journey. Soon after daylight I left my host, and shortly his pastures, when we entered upon the dreary waste, and rode over sandy hills and valleys, on which not a blade of grass was growing. On many parts there was a thick saline incrustation, which was thrown up in dust by our horses' feet, filling our mouths with its bitter particles, and causing intolerable thirst. The Kirghis said we should have great difficulty in finding fresh water, as all the streams were dried up. Again the Kirghis were armed-I could not understand for what reason, as we were traversing a desert where no man can dwell. They said we should have to travel near the worst region in the whole steppes, as the country to the east of the Ala-kool is inhabited by large bands of robbers, whom they called Byjagat: these are composed of Kirghis from the different hordes who have escaped after committing great crimes, and Chinese convicts from the penal settlements on the Ila. They live in security in this region, and carry on their depredations with impunity. The Kirghis kept a sharp look-out as we rode along, evidently expecting to see smoke or some other indication of their encampments. Hour after hour passed, and still I rode over the same saline plain; at length our horses began to flag for want of water, of which not a drop could be seen. The sun was now descending fast below a sandy ridge a short distance in front of us. On reaching the top of this, we were overjoyed by the sight of a lake stretching eight or ten versts across the steppe, and were not long in reaching it. Here were grass and water, which made the eyes of man and horse sparkle with delight. A Cossack sprung from his horse and stooped to drink; but the liquid had scarcely touched his parched lips when he rose and exclaimed "Gorkie"-bitter. This was a terrible blow; the horses, however, drank the water with great zest. The |