MAGNIFICENT WATERFALL. 495 ascended higher than this. If this river is ever explored, it must be in winter, when the stream is frozen; but then the gorge will be blocked up with snow, and thus rendered impassable. In all probability, man will never see the full grandeur of this mighty chasm. The Kirghis say that the mountain may be crossed in two days, but at no point can any one descend to the river. The snow on the Actou, including the lower parts, is at this time too deep to admit of a journey on that side, even after a most difficult ride over the mountains. Perhaps at the end of July it might be possible to ascend to the foot of the mountains in which the Acsou has its source, but this even is doubtful. At some very distant period there must have been great convulsions here, the rocks being elevated with so many different angles of inclination; nevertheless, I found no signs of volcanic action. Earthquakes are frequent, and I felt the effects of two in this region. This evening I made a sketch of the Acsou, with Kirghis passing over their flocks and herds, which was a work of great difficulty. The men remind one of the Greeks, as they sit naked on their horses, which they manage with skill and courage, frequently plunging into the water, at considerable personal risk, to save a sheep or a goat. We encamped in a most beautiful situation, commanding a view along the mountains to the east and west, and looking over the valley of Ghilder-a-gar-a-ghi, but we shortly found that we had done this at the expense of our comfort, as the wind threatened every moment to carry away our yourt. At last it was secured with ropes and stakes, and then we considered ourselves safe. I started early into the mountains to sketch the Ghilder-a-gar-a-ghi, a beautiful waterfall in the Actou. For about a verst our track was over the plain, and subsequently the mountain rose abruptly, with deep chasms cut into its sides. Along one of the ridges, which were narrow and sharp, we began to ascend, and after riding three hours reached a point beyond which it was impossible to take our horses. From this place we had a splendid view: the water is seen leaping over the precipice in one fall eight hundred feet high, and reaches the bottom in vapor, after which it is again collected, and rushes down the gorge in white foam. To obtain a good sketch it was necessary to descend into this mighty gorge, which was a work of great risk. The Cossacks accompanied me, and we reached the bottom without an accident. When standing 496 FAREWELL TO THE MOUNTAINS.-NARROW ESCAPE. beneath, the fall appeared stupendous, and the roaring of the water prevented the sound of our voices being heard. At a short distance from the fall there is a natural arch in the slate rocks which spans the torrent. Beyond, the water rushes on in many a fall till it reaches the plateau five thousand feet below, which is at a distance of about two versts. The savage effect of this spot must be seen to be fully understood; the opposite view conveys but an artist's impression of the scene. With this view I shall take my leave of the Alatou and Mustou Mountains, among which I wandered for one hundred and twentythree days, visiting scenery of the most striking character, which contributed one hundred and nine sketches to my folio. In these regions I encountered many dangers; Providence, however, preserved me. Once a Kirghis sent a ball from my own rifle, which struck the rocks three inches above my head. Though this was accidental, he immediately threw down the rifle, sprung into his saddle, galloped away, and we saw him no more. I often experienced hunger, and when I departed from the neighborhood it was almost without clothing, and without a serviceable pair of boots; notwithstanding which, as I rode away I looked back with regret upon the purple summits and snowy peaks, remembering only the . happy days I had spent among their wonderful scenery. CHAPTER XXIX. SAIAN MOUNTAINS-ORIENTAL SIBERIA. AFTER leaving the eastern end of the Alatou, a ride of seventeen days over hill and steppe brought me to the Russian frontier and a post-road at Semipolatinsk, when I appeared once more among my Siberian friends, who had given me up, believing that I was killed. I shall now cross Siberia from its western boundary on the Irtisch to its Oriental capital Irkoutsk, but shall not inflict the monotony of a post journey on my readers. It was not dragged on at the rate of three or four stations a day, for in the twenty-four hours I often traversed two hundred and ninety, and sometimes as much as three hundred and four versts. If any person traveling to Irkoutsk by the great post-road will |