56

MOUNTAIN SCENE.

versts from here." Although still very weak, I gladly accepted this kind offer, and presently we started on our way to the Zavod of Tourinsk with five horses and two drivers at great speed.

To this place it was a short and pleasant drive of nine versts along the valley of the Toura. Large lakes have been made in this valley, which supply the water-power to the iron-works. It was a most splendid evening; the sun went down below the Oural Mountains, tinging every thing with his golden hues. From one part of the road we had a view of the Katchkanar, and some other mountain summits to the north, clearly defined against the deep yellow sky in a blue-gray misty tone; a nearer range of hills was purple as seen through a misty vapor rising from the valleys; while nearer to us rose some thickly-wooded hills, their outlines broken by rocky masses of a deep purple color. From these to the lake in the valley there is a dense forest of dark pines, gradually sloping down to the water, and now partially lost in the deep shadow. The lake reflected the sky in all its golden splendor, giving a deeper tone to surrounding objects, and rendering more obscure the dark forest beyond it.

We remained two hours with the officers in Tourinsk, where we supped, and at eleven o'clock were once more galloping along toward our destination. My companion was soon fast asleep. He had gone over this road so often that no charms were left for him. With me the case was different; each step in advance presented some agreeable novelty, consequently I watched every turning of the road with great interest. At some points I had a distant view of parts of the Oural chain, at others a peep over those interminable forests which clothe the lower range of hills, now seen by me for the first time under the effect of the peculiar twilight of these regions, where at this season it is never dark. A partial gloom and solemn stillness as of death spread over these scenes, filling me with strange sensations. All nature seemed wrapped in eternal sleep, which I almost feared to disturb by the rattling of our wheels.

We had now entered a forest region which led us up high hills, then down into deep valleys filled with white vapor, through which the tops of lightning-blasted pines stood out like the shivered masts of a wreck above the sea. A little lower, and all was lost in fog and indistinctness, which checked our speed, moistened and chilled

me.

Then again we emerged from the misty cloud, and galloped up another wooded height, from the summit of which I saw the Katchkanar looming over the forest beneath, and apparently quite near, although fifty or sixty versts distant.

From this point we began to descend rapidly into the valley of the Toura. Here my companion woke up and pointed out the

Zavod.

All was calm and still in the town, which stands on the south side of the lake, while below and near the rock named "Shaitan," to the north, there were continuous clouds of black smoke, through which tongues of flame and a long line of sparks shot up high into the pure air: these, and the heavy rolling of the forgehammers that now broke on our ears, are truly characteristic of this igneous region. After crossing the head of the lake, we were in a short time snugly seated in the director's house.

Nijne Toura is a Zavod belonging to the crown, in which a large quantity of excellent bar iron is made from the magnetic ores of Blagodat. It is beautifully situated on the shore of a large lake

58

MASS OF SYENITE.-MUSQUITOES.

formed in the valley of the Toura, from which the fall for the water-power used in the iron-works is obtained. On the north side of this fine sheet of water a large rugged mass of pinkish-colored rock," said to be true syenite," rises 350 to 360 feet high, possessing some remarkable magnetic qualities; one small space of only a few feet in extent was pointed out to me, on which the needle of a compass will turn round. To the east and west of this bare mass there are luxuriant pine and larch woods, extending down into the valley.

The director informed me that it will require a few days to make the necessary preparations for my journey through the forest to the Katchkanar, which has induced me to make some sketches in the valley of the Toura, more particularly on the lake. There are two or three points whence the Katchkanar is seen rising high above all the other mountains, presenting his rugged crest sometimes against a deep blue sky, at others encircled by clouds black as night.

I have tried The last plan

I found a fine view from the forest at the head of the lake, about eight versts distant from the Zavod. This I determined to sketch, although the musquitoes were here in millions. Our horses had been taken to some high ground clear of wood, where the wind compels these pests to seek shelter from the breeze: they are now taking a most savage revenge upon me for their loss. various means to keep them at a distance, in vain. I adopted is one much used by the woodmen: it consists of a small sheet iron box, seven inches long, four wide, and five deep, with small holes pierced in the bottom. This is secured to a leather strap, which passes over the shoulder, and lets it hang down like a soldier's cartridge-box at the back of the hip. Some hot charcoal is placed in the bottom, and upon this moist decayed wood, which smoulders and keeps up a cloud of smoke that drives off the bloodthirsty insects. Although successful enough, I soon found that it was, if any thing, a little worse than the evil it was intended to avert. Indeed, the continued smoke affected my eyes to such a degree that I could not see to sketch: many of the woodmen suffer from the same cause. I was obliged, therefore, to abandon the smoking process, at the risk of being devoured.

About a verst below the Zavod I found another good view, which I sketched from some rocks at the west end of Shaitan,

STORM AMONG THE MOUNTAINS.-FELLOW-TRAVELERS.

59

where I could look over the valley of the Toura to the Katchkanar. At this point the river winds through meadow-land, twisting and turning in every direction. Fine clumps of birch and pine trees skirt its banks. From the opposite side of this narrow valley to the Katchkanar there appeared to be one dense forest, covering all the lower range of hills. While sketching, I perceived a sudden change at the Katchkanar; clouds began to collect around the summit, sweeping downward till the whole mountain was enveloped in a shroud of inky blackness, presenting here and there on its dark ground whitish streaks, as if jets of steam had been forced up from below. Part of the lower chain soon became obscured also by clouds, which showed signs of much inward commotion. Meanwhile the advancing storm put on its most threatening look. I could now see the lightning, flash on flash, stream from the clouds to earth, but heard no thunder. After about an hour the storm turned toward the south and followed the mountain chain, leaving me in calm and sunshine to pursue my occupation. It was not long before the Katchkanar became visible, and the sun was once more shining upon these riven crags in all his splendor.

On Sunday morning, an Englishman who has the direction of some large iron-works on the west side of the Oural, near Perm, arrived in Nijne Toura. He had heard at Serebrianskoï (115 versts distant) that I was going to ascend the Katchkanar, and particularly desired to accompany me, to which I made no objection. During the week three other gentlemen decided to go with

me.

All was arranged; but when we met at dinner to-day, and I told them we should leave for the Katchkanar at eight o'clock to-morrow morning, they made excuses, and finally gave up the journey, not one apparently having courage to attempt difficulties they had often described.

At the appointed time the horses were brought into the yard, accompanied by three men. One was a sturdy old hunter, about fifty years of age, who had been selected on account of his knowledge of the forests we had to ride through; the two others were younger men-one quite tall, with a good, manly countenance; his comrade a shorter man, with a good-natured, smiling face nothing could put out of humor. Each carried a rifle slung across his shoulder. My companion from the West Oural was a thin, spare

60

A QUICKSAND.-A BEAR.

man, capable of enduring any fatigue, who had been accustomed to Ouralian life about seven years. He feared neither storms nor forests, and cared no more for a bear than he would for a stray pig. He had a perfect dread, however, of the insect tribe which feast on blood.

For the first eight versts we traveled over a moderately good road, which brought us to a small stream not more than sixty feet wide. The bridge had been carried away by the ice, and was lying partly across the stream a little farther down, but this it was impossible to cross. One of my men rode into the stream and crossed very well, but as he attempted to ascend the opposite bank his horse sunk under him till nearly overhead; the other men hastened to his assistance, crossing the stream as he had done, but their horses got fast also, which prevented them from giving any aid. Seeing how matters were likely to end, I sprang from my horse, throwing the reins to my companion, ran to the wreck of the bridge, and managed with great difficulty to get across. found my man in a complete quicksand, in which I also was near sinking. Fortunately, he was not indifferent to the law of selfpreservation; for, tying a cord of sufficient length to his bridle, he tossed the end of it to me, and by this means I was enabled to get both horse and rider on to solid ground. As he was shivering with cold, I gave him a tumbler of raw wodky; some one flung a sheepskin over him, and every thing being put in good condition again, we rode on.

I

At a short distance from this place we entered a thick forest, passing through it for several versts; at length we rode out into a beautiful glade, and on the opposite side, at no great distance, beheld a man approaching on horseback, at sight of whom the men instantly exclaimed, "Egor Stepanish has killed a bear." When we met, I observed a fine black skin hanging over his horse. He had been watching the greater part of the night for the bear, who did not come; and shortly after daylight, giving up all hopes of meeting him for that time, had left his hiding-place to return to his horse, which had been secured in the forest. He had not gone far, however, when, while passing a huge lump of rock, the bear stood before him at twenty yards distance. The rifle was instantly unslung, the prongs in the ground, and the deadly weapon leveled, while Bruin, apparently no way alarmed, rose upon his hind