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HAZARDOUS DESCENT.-LUNCH

no trace of a human habitation, not even a wreath of smoke, can be seen to assure us that man is there. Turning to the north, and about 100 versts distant, Pavdinsky Kamen rises out of the dark forest (this is one of the highest points in the Oural chain); it is partly covered with snow, and shines like frosted silver in the bright sun. All the mountains near are blue, purple, and misty, with a rugged foreground of rocks of great height, broken into all shapes and forms. In fact, the summit of the Katchkanar is evidently a mountain in ruins, the softer parts having been removed or torn away by the hand of Time, leaving the harder portion, or vertebræ of the mountain, standing like a huge skeleton, which, seen at a distance, often assumed the most fantastic and picturesque shapes.

Having finished my small epistle, and made a few notes in my journal, I began to descend, which I found much more difficult than climbing; indeed, having descended about thirty feet, I was stopped; however, by reascending a little, and by taking a turn round the jutting points of some of the windings of my late "bad eminence," I got down, to the great joy of both my companions, who had been much alarmed for me. We now scrambled over fallen rocks toward the south, every hundred paces bringing us upon another wild and rugged scene. After walking, tumbling, and climbing for about an hour, we turned our steps down the mountain in a new direction toward our encampment. This brought us to a large patch of ice and snow, surrounded by fallen rocks and dwarf pines. The sun was intensely hot; this and the fatiguing walk made us both hungry and thirsty. As As my hunter carried in his bag a bottle of Ouralian and some bread, also brandy for himself, we determined to lunch. A large rock projecting from the snow formed our table and chairs; above us the high crags of the Katchkanar rose to the height of six hundred feet. In this solitary spot I commenced a new occupation. I filled a tumbler nearly full of hard frozen snow, then poured the strawberry nalifka upon it, and in the course of a very few minutes it was turned into ice equal to any ever made by Gunter; our spoons were cut out of a branch, and a delicious dessert repaid me for my trouble.

Having rested a short time, we continued our descent through some magnificent rocky scenes. I made several sketches, and at seven o'clock we were sitting at our camp-fire, having had twelve

BAD WEATHER.-FESTIVALS.

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hours' hard walking. Later in the evening, the old hunter predicted a change with bad weather before morning, and advised our moving under the shelter of the rocks below. To this proposition we objected, rain or storm being nothing in comparison with the torments in store for us there. Stooping a little to listen, we could hear the everlasting hum of the myriads of insects from which we had escaped: they would have devoured us. Contenting ourselves, therefore, with our new position, we lay down on our exposed and rocky beds, where we slept soundly and in peace till near three o'clock in the morning, when we were awakened by a gale of wind, its icy blast making us shiver. Before our traps were packed we had rain and sleet; at length our horses were saddled, and we descended the mountain to seek for shelter in the forest. At six o'clock we were sitting under some cedars, completely protected from the storm, before a huge blazing fire.

The wind became stronger and the rain poured down; the tops of the mountains were covered with clouds-bad omens in these regions. My companion and all my men said we should have some days of bad weather, and urged me to return. I consented, and at ten o'clock we were on our march back to Nijne Toura, where we arrived at half past ten o'clock at night, completely saturated.

CHAPTER V.

MINERAL TREASURES OF THE OURAL.

AFTER three days' incessant rain I left Nijne Toura with the director of the iron-works, and arrived at Kooshwinskoï at nine o'clock, where I found my former acquaintances assembled for a dance. It was a name's-day, and the officers had come to Kooshwinskoï from all the Zavods around. They were, indeed, a gay party; dancing was kept up until half past two o'clock, and then we supped and separated.

Monday was also a great festival at the adjoining Zavod Tourinsk, and every one was going there. I received an invitation to dine, and accepted it with pleasure, intending to make some sketches on my way. I started early in the morning across the

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prowess.

WRESTLING.

country, and made two views in the valley of the Toura looking over the lake to the Oural; then rode on, and arrived at the Zavod some hours before dinner: this enabled me to see how the workmen and their families passed their holidays. Not far from the iron-works several large swings with boxes were erected, and many females and children were riding in them. At a little distance the men were wrestling: some got very ugly falls. Each man stripped off his coat, and tied his long sash tight round his waist; this was grasped fast in the right hand of his antagonist, while the left hand was placed on his shoulder; then the struggle began; the feet, however, were not employed for tripping. One strong man seemed to be the champion, and laid every one low who entered the lists against him. Some time passed, and no one would accept his repeated invitations to take a tumble or try his prowess. He was in the act of picking up his coat, when a man stepped into the circle, and said, if no one else accepted the challenge, he would try one fall. The speaker was much slighter built, but exceedingly active, and was evidently a stranger. He was heartily laughed at for his daring, but appeared to enjoy the mirth he created, and very coolly prepared himself for the combat. The champion looked at him rather contemptuously; indeed, from the manner in which he tied on his sash, and eyed his supposed victim, there seemed a determination on his part to give him a terrible "fling." Presently they went at it. The struggle was a long one-to the great surprise of the spectators. The wrestler tried every artifice of the craft on his supple opponent, but without effect. He now made a desperate effort to throw him by his superior strength; this failed; in another moment he was laid prostrate on the ground, when a great shout of joy greeted him from those he had lately defeated. Springing hastily to his feet, he challenged the victor to another trial; it was instantly accepted, and the two men clinched each other again. This second struggle was soon over, and the late champion received a second defeat and a most fearful fall. No one would now risk a contest with the stranger.

In another part of the Zavod the young girls were occupied in more peaceful games. They were in groups, dressed in their holiday costume, of very bright colors, which was pleasing and picturesque. Others were walking round them with their hands

linked together, singing very plaintive songs; indeed, many of these melodies were extremely beautiful. Near these several young women were engaged in another game; they had a small plank or board, about seven feet long, placed on a block in the centre, six inches high. Two girls play at this game, one at each end, standing upright. One springs up and alights again on the board; the force of her descent causes her companion to spring higher every time. I have seen a couple continue this game for twenty minutes, standing perfectly straight, and bounding up three feet, and three feet six inches. This play, which requires a little practice, is quite a pretty one, as well as a healthful exercise. The day was very fine, and I was much interested with their rural pastimes, which reminded me of sports on the village green in the days of my childhood.

I remained several days sketching in the vicinity of Kooshwinskoï, as there are many points highly interesting to both the geologist and artist. The two hills, named the Great and Little Blagodat, are the most remarkable; the Great Blagodat is about twelve hundred feet above the level of the sea.

During the last century large quantities of magnetic iron ore have been extracted from this place; and it has been clearly proved by Helmersen, and other mining engineers, from the appearance of fissures on the sides of these hills, that there have

been two distinct eruptions of magnetic ore in this place; and, further, that the first great masses of this ore have since been cut through, and intersected by similar matter.

Blagodat rises considerably above the Zavod and the surrounding country. To the north and west the Oural Mountains are seen at a distance of sixty or eighty versts; to the south and east there is a flat country, covered with dense forests, extending for several thousand versts toward and into Eastern Siberia, over which the eye searches in vain for some indication of the residence of man: nothing but dark pine-trees and a few small lakes are seen.

One of my sketching expeditions was to Blagodat. I started at eight o'clock in the morning in an open carriage, and was driven to within half a verst of the summit; from this point I sent the servant back to the Zavod, with orders to return for me at seven in the evening, as I had decided to devote the whole day to-sketching in this remarkable region. After ascending a short distance, I found a point which afforded a very good view, and in a little time I was occupied in transferring the scene to my paper, all the while a clear blue sky and a bright sun shining over my head. About ten o'clock I fancied that I heard something like the rumbling of distant thunder, but above me all was so clear and sunny that I concluded this must be fancy, and went on with my work. Shortly, however, I heard the sounds again, a little more distinct than before; this induced me to ascend a high rock, from which I saw, sure enough, at a great distance, a storm gathering in the southeast, casting, as it approached, a dark shadow over the whole landscape. After watching it a short time, I conjectured it would pass to the east without disturbing me, and so, letting myself down to the place where I had begun sketching, I resumed my labor, listening betimes to the thunder, which seemed approaching nearer every moment. In about two hours the distant part of the view I was sketching became enveloped in thick clouds, down which slanting lines of a lighter shade, cutting the bosom of the dark mass of vapor, showed that it had burst in a deluge of rain. Several storms passed without touching me, till about two o'clock, when some large drops suggested that it would be prudent to seek shelter from the coming tempest as soon as possible. On the summit of the great Blagodat there is a small wooden chapel and a tomb erected to the memory of a Vogul chief, "Tchumpin," who