chorus some beautiful Russian melodies. After a short time the ladies were stowed away under the balagan, and each of us adopted his own plan for sleeping. Some made beds of branches, but mine was composed of two logs of timber placed near the fire, with my cloak for a covering. In a few minutes after I had lain down I was fast asleep.

About two o'clock in the morning I awoke, shivering with cold; the fire had nearly burned out, and, on looking round, I began to wonder what had happened, every thing appeared so changed. Having got up, I felt the grass crisp under my feet, and on taking up a piece of wood found it frozen, so much so that I could scrape the ice from it. I threw some wood on the fire, hoping to get warm, but failed: this induced me to look for the sunrise. taking my rifle from a branch on which it hung, I strolled away,

After

leaving every one fast asleep. Having proceeded about two versts

MOUNTAIN SUNRISE.

87

I

into some long grass, I got sight of a fine buck, who bounded past me at full speed at about a hundred and fifty yards distance. fired, and, unluckily, missed him. Notwithstanding my disappointment, I kept on my course. At fifty minutes past two o'clock I was sitting on a high ledge of rock watching for the sun. Presently a visible token of his approach crept along the distant horizon. My friends were at least three versts away, and no signs of life were visible except a solitary bird sitting on a birch-branchı chanting his matin song.

The sun was rising fast, his yellow rays were thrown far up into mid-heaven, and in a short time the rocky peaks above me were tipped with golden light. Soon he was shining upon me in his full glory, while all beneath was undefined and misty. Presently the tops of the lower hills caught the light, and every few minutes new objects seemed starting into life from out the gloomy shroud which overhung the valleys. I sat watching the changes for an hour. It was, indeed, a glorious sight. Hill after hill was breaking into view; each ridge, as it receded, was more aerial, until, at length, they appeared like golden mists; while the nearer rocks stood out grim, dark, and rugged, as if the spirits of darkness were trying to penetrate the mysteries of heaven.

The towns and zavods in the far-off distance were now touched with the sun's rays, and sparkled in yellowish white against the dark purple-gray forests by which they were surrounded, shining out like specks of light on the vast extent of wood and mountain. Although there are no great mountain masses in this region rising far into snowy space, to strike the beholder with wonder, this country has a grandeur peculiarly its own, which it is difficult to describe. The interminable forests, with their rounded hilly sweeps vanishing far into misty distance, until they appear to dissolve into thin air, and the oppressive solitude reigning over these vast scenes, create feelings of astonishment and melancholy.

I retraced my steps, arrived at the balagan at half past five o'clock, and found the cooks preparing the morning meal. After breakfast it was agreed that two men should accompany me to the northeast side of the mountain, where we could descend toward the lake, cross over a most rugged part, and meet our friends in the forest at the bottom. A brisk walk of an hour brought us to the brink of a precipice, and stopped our progress toward the

88

STUPENDOUS ROCKS.-BIELAYA GORA.

lake, which we now looked down upon. Though apparently quite near, it was, in reality, several versts distant. It was shining like polished silver, its seven small islands appearing almost black on its bright surface. From the foot of the precipice on which we stood, down to the lake, there was a thick forest extending all along its shores. We were compelled to descend a little, and then cross toward the west; this brought us to a bed of loose rocks, at least half a verst in width, extending up to the summit and far down the mountain. They were difficult to cross, but not dangerous. In some places they were piled up very steep, without even a blade of grass on them; in other parts, lower down, trees and shrubs were growing between the stones; again, toward the middle of the bed, there were deep holes formed by blocks being heaped up in the utmost confusion. In many places the rocks are of enormous dimensions. I measured several, and found one 43 feet long by 12 feet wide, with an average thickness of 8 feet: this could not weigh less than 500 tons. Heavy as this is, it seems to have been tumbled about without difficulty: these ponderous blocks, being tossed up into a confused and shadowy mass, suggest thoughts of "Chaos and old Night."

There is every appearance of a mighty torrent having swept over this place, tearing up solid rocks-indeed, every thing in its course. Since I examined this spot I have spent six years among the mountains of Asia, ascending many of great elevation, and in no instance have I ever found these rocky and torrent-like beds near the summits. I have walked up the track of the avalanche where snow, ice, and rocks have torn up the mountain and carried devastation into the valleys, but these fearful roads of Nature's making bear no resemblance to the masses of rock on Bielaya Gora. A walk of six hours brought us to our friends and to dinner, most acceptable after a fatiguing ramble. We rested some time, then got into our telagas, and returned to Tchernoistotchinsk, where we arrived at eight o'clock, much delighted with our journey.

NEVIANSK.-NIKITE DEMIDOFF.

89

CHAPTER VI.

PRECIOUS STONES OF SIBERIA.

ON leaving this Zavod the road passes round "Lessetsia Gora," or Fox Hill, and enters a pretty valley with isolated masses of rock in many parts, and fine clumps of trees. After passing Chaitansk it is one continuous forest to Neviansk, where I arrived at two o'clock in the morning, and was taken to the castle.

This is one of the oldest Zavods in the Oural; it was built on the small river Neva under the direction of Nikite Demidoff. Sent from Tula by Peter the Great, about the year 1701 or 1702, to examine the mines in these regions, near which he soon after established himself, Demidoff may truly be considered the founder of the iron and other works in the Oural. He did more toward developing the mineral wealth of these mountains than any other man. His sound practical knowledge and untiring industry in examining this country enabled him to select those parts best suited for mining, smelting, and other operations, and he has left the stamp of his foresight and genius on several Zavods.

The castle, as it is called, was partly built by the first Demidoff, and was long the family residence; it was extended by his successor into a magnificent mansion. The rooms have all groined ceilings in brick-work; some of them with ribs, and bosses at the intersections, in very good taste, and admirably executed. In a room which I may now call my bed-room, there is a fine arched recess, in which stood an iron bedstead elegantly fitted up. The furniture had once been splendid, but is now somewhat faded. In front of the recess a beautiful painted iron table was standing, and iron chairs were round the room. There is a large saloon with fresco paintings on the walls, as well as several other apartments which have been richly furnished. The whole are now kept for the accommodation of travelers, and every thing is provided for the table free of expense. Much used to be thought of the "horn of ale" given at some of the noble mansions in England, but in this

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HOSPITALITY.-LEANING TOWER.-IRON-WARE.

Zavod the traveler takes up his abode, and at whatever hour he may arrive, night or day, he is certain to find a welcome. His table is covered with excellent fare and delicious wines-Port, Sherry, Rhine wine, and Champagne. Such is the generous hospitality of the Oural, evidence of which may be found in every private Zavod.

It is said that the castle was once much more extensive, but that a part of it was destroyed by one of the Demidoffs, many years ago, out of caprice. The government had some suspicion that Demidoff was working other metals than iron in this Zavod, and sent a certain Count to examine into the matter. On his return the two met at the palace in St. Petersburg, when the count congratulated Demidoff on the taste and splendor of his noble mansion in the Oural. Demidoff asked if his excellency was as well satisfied with the hospitality as with the appearance of the mansion; the reply was, "Enchanted with both:" this sealed its doom. Demidoff wrote immediately to his agent at the Zavod to pull down the rooms which had been occupied by the count. They were demolished immediately, and no member of the family has ever resided at the Zavod since.

About two hundred paces from the castle stands a very fine brick tower, much out of the perpendicular; there is a subterraneous passage to it, now closed up. In this building the silver brought from the Altai was refined, and afterward coined on the island in the lake at Tchernoistotchinsk. It is also said that the

first Demidoffs concealed here the fugitives who escaped from Tobolsk and other regions of Siberia, employing them in the mines and iron-works; if true, it was a grave offense, considering the formidable injunctions of the emperor.

Very good bar iron is made from a mixture of iron ore obtained here with a portion of magnetic iron ore from Nijne Tagilsk. The manufacture of painted iron-ware, which was once carried on extensively in Nijne Tagilsk, has long been removed to this Zavod, and is now a very important branch of its industrial operations. Large quantities of various articles are produced, which find their way through the fair at Irbit to every part of Siberia; also a peculiar kind of iron-bound wooden boxes, mostly painted red or blue, the iron-work black and ornamented. These are necessary appendages in every cottage; are made by free people, and thousands