good, though a long and tedious way out of the mountains, if a traveller knew the passes and turn

what is properly called Stanemore: the inn Camden speaks of, is the Bell I mentioned before, where I breakfasted with Miss MELMOTH; and lies on the left side of a fine turnpike road from Bows to Brugh, in Westmorland, the high-way to Carlisle; but though this road is a part of Stanemore, running in a direct line from Gretabridge through Bows to Brugh, eighteen miles of delightful ground, both on account of the excellence of the way, and the fine views of mountains and vales on either hand, for twelve miles, from a beautiful ruin of a Roman castle at the end of the town*, yet this is but the

* By the way, I suspect from Bishop Horsley's account of the Roman castle or station, that he never was on the spot, but had his relation from the surveyor he sent out to find the length of this Roman wall, and take other dimensions and notes for his Britannia Romana; I mean Mr. Cay, who published the late map of Northumberland, which Bishop Horsley employed him to make. He does not describe the fort and situation, and the adjacent country, as if he had been there himself: nor can I think he ever rode from this castle to Brugh or Burgh under Stanemore, or from Brugh, the Roman Veteræ, to Brovocum, now Brougham-Castle, a great and curious Roman ruin. The finest things relating to them, he has omitted, and many antiquities

ings; but otherwise, it was either impossible to go on; or a man must journey at the hazard of his

southern beginning of Stanemore. That vast tract of mountains, glens, and vallies, forest, rock, and water, the most wonderful land in the world, for forty miles to the end of the country, if it was possible to go straight on, lies on the right hand of this road, as you ride to Brugh under Stanemore; or, on your left, as you come from Westmorland to Catarracton or Catarrick.

Here, by the way, let me tell you, Reader, lives RALPH HAWKWELL, who keeps an excellent house, where you may get choice things, after a ride of twenty two miles, if you come from Boroughbridge to go to the north; or of fifteen miles, if from Greta-bridge, for the south; provided you have the rem; and if you have not, though you were an apostle of a man, RALPH would have very little regard for you. Indeed, every where in the

that are to be found in off-sets by the way. I question, likewise, if ever he saw with his own eyes, the eastern and western terminations of the Roman wall. If he was at Newcastle, and really did ride over Lonsdale marsh to Tunnocelum, a marsh where I had like to have lost my life; it is surprising that a man of his understanding, and taste for antiquities, should give no better account of these places. For my part, I could not see what he saw nor did he see what I saw at the end of the town of Boulness.

life a thousand times a day, in crossing waters and precipices.

north, where the best of things are to be had, I have always found travelling there as expensive as near London. Many I know give a different account, but the reason is, either they never were there; or they travel in a pilgrim-like manner. You must take care, then, to have money enough, if ever you undertake the northern expedition I have frequently gone upon: and as it is not safe carrying much cash with you, for there are rogues in that part of the world, as well as in this; they rob even on Stanemore road; and in riding over the great moor that lies between Brugh and Appleby, there is a little ale-house to be seen at a good distance, on the right hand, at the entrance of a wood, at the bottom of a range of vast fells, where highwaymen sometimes resort; I was pursued by two of them, not long ago, and to the excellence of my horse, owed the saving of my purse, and perhaps my life: they were well mounted, but I kept an hundred yards a head of them for several miles, while, as fast as they could stretch away, they chased me till near the town of Brugh. I was all alone, my fellow having received a mischief, and being obliged to stay a day behind; and the rogues did swear and hoot most horribly, and fired three shots at me; but my horse was as good as ever spanked it along, and I cut him up, and pricked him over the turf, like the wind away. I say, then, as it is not safe travelling with all the money neces

Our first labour was to ascend a very narrow steep way in the side of a mountain, which went up

sary for such a long journey, the best way is, when cash runs low, to lie by to rest for a week, and put your notes in order, in some town, and by one of the dealers, or manufacturers of the place, draw on your friend, or goldsmith in London, for what you want, and by the return of the post, you will be paid the money where you are. In this manner I did, when I was last at Richmond, in the north-riding of Yorkshire. Being in want of money, I asked a gentleman with whom I chanced to dine, how I could supply myself with 201. by draft on one in the capital; and he directed me to his neighbour, who let me have what I had occasion for at moderate exchange, as soon as he heard from his friend in London. I might have had any money I named in this way; and so, in other places of trade.

I hope, reader, you will excuse this little digression, because it is meant well; and for the same reason, I imagine you will pardon me for advising you, in the next place, should the fates ever bring you to Catarractonium, in order to proceed to the northern extremity of our country; to go four miles out of your way to see Richmond town, before you set out for Gretabridge, to JOSEPH MARSHALL'S; the best house of the two inns there. The delightful, romantic situation of Richmond, and the fine curiosities about the town, will afford you an agreeable entertainment for a couple of days; and if

VOL. I.

U

due north for a full mile, and brought us to another large, standing, black and unfathomable water,

you like going at night to a club of very worthy, sensible men of this town, who are very civil to strangers, you may pass the evening in a very pleasing way; or if you have a taste for dancing, and prefer the conversation of a fine girl to a pipe and more serious discourse, there is a small polite assembly of as pretty women as ever gladdened the heart of man. My method, while there, was to smoke one night with the club; and the next I devoted to the ladies. We made up ten couple, and had the hemp-dressers one night, which is, you know, if you are a dancing reader, the most difficult, and laborious of all the country dances; and no where have I seen the ground more actively beat, or, in juster measure. Life and truth and charms were in perfection in those Richmond girls. I was there in 1729, 1737, and again in 1752, and the sensible club, and bright assembly, were still in being; but no more than three did I see, of men or women, in 37, that were there in 29; and in 52, they were all strangers to me. Some were married away; some had removed; and others were translated to the shades of eternity. This was to me a moral lesson. When I looked round the assembly room the last time I was there, and found every glorious girl of my acquaintance was gone, and that years had rendered me almost unfit to join with the ladies then present, in the dancings of the night, a philosophical sadness came powerfully