or bunches of blossom buds are thrown out from the older growth, while in other varieties the blossoms are produced chiefly from the terminal buds of young shoots, upon which, at maturity, the fruit dangles.

Generally, the trees of heavy-bearing varieties are not long lived, being either constitutionally feeble or exhausted by excessive crops, or both.

It will be found best, on the whole, to choose varieties that bear moderately, and of which the fruit is neither so small as to be tedious in the gathering, nor so large as to expose it to be swept off by winds, though, in reference to the russet and Jersey sweeting named above, special peculiarities will always secure them a place in the orchard, in spite of their comparatively early decay. It may also be added that the habit of heavy alternate bearing may be changed in the youth of the tree by perseveringly stripping it of blossoms in the bearing year until it is forced into blossoming moderately every season, or only half the tree may be so disciplined, or one side may be grafted with another variety of diverse habit.

PRODUCTION OF NEW FRUITS, &c.

From the knowledge we possess, it seems probable that the kinds of fruit, as well as individual trees, have but a limited period of healthful growth and productiveness, and hence new kinds become desirable,

In reference to fruits, the theory has been proposed that, in attempting to raise improved varieties of fruits from seed, we should select for intermixture, not individuals of the very best known varieties, but those of a somewhat inferior grade which are in process of amelioration, thus running them, as it were, on an independent line upward from the original base stock.

This theory may be good, but it does not look so. We may assume that in each family of fruits there is a point of excellence beyond which human skill in its culture will not be able to carry it. If our best-known varieties have already attained to this perfection in their various kinds, the most direct course would seem to be to reproduce them anew from seed as nearly

like themselves as possible. If they have not attained that point they may be still progressing; but if they have simply arrived at the acmé of their individual character, and not constituting standards for their class, then it becomes difficult to explain why the incessant efforts of the last half century have not produced an apple superior to the Newtown pippin, a pear as finely flavored as the Seckel, or a plum equal to the old green gage, whose seedlings, raised haphazard through the country, though inferior to their parent, yet occupy almost alone the wide space lying between it and all other varieties of plum. My readers may pursue either track at their pleasSee Fertilization, page 74.

ure.

CHAPTER XIII.

Propagation of Fruit - trees by Seeds, Cuttings, Layers, &c. - Various Stocks for Fruit-trees.

PROPAGATION OF FRUIT-TREES.

BY SEEDS.

See "Seedling Stocks," page 204.

BY CUTTINGS.

Currants, gooseberries, grape-vines, and quinces are often raised from cuttings, and it is quite possible to raise apples, pears, and other fruits in the same way.

Certain fruit-trees, as some varieties of the apple, indicate a disposition to root by pushing out bunches or ganglions of half-formed or inchoate buds from the plain body of the stem, and from these, in due time, young shoots proceed. Cuttings from such varieties strike readily. In certain circumstances a similar result seems forced, as when the young green growth feathers the whole length of the rough bark of the body of a felled pitch-pine, or an equally unpromising locust post in a lumber-yard.

It is not, however, desirable to raise fruit-trees in this manner. The heavier trees, when raised from cuttings, never make

enough strong roots to hold them securely; they are generally also much longer in attaining size than those raised from seed, or grafted on seedling stocks.

Cuttings of currants, gooseberries, etc., are made from one or more buds of the last year's growth, and should not be taken from very near the point of the young shoots, but so far down as to secure some firmness in the wood, and little pith. general, also, it is better to take them from the horizontal branches which issue from near the root than from the central upright growth.

In

BUD CUTTINGS.

Fig. 81.

a. Bud Cutting with sealed ends.

b. Bud Cutting divided lengthwise.

A bud cutting consists of a single bud, with an inch or so of the stem left on each side of it, which may be sealed at the ends with pitch or grafting composition, as Fig. 81 a, though this is not essential; or it may be divided lengthwise, as shown above, Fig. 81 b. Three or four of these may be set, with the bud in position to start upward, about an inch deep, around the inside edge of a quart garden-pot in rich earth, or each bud may be put singly into a half-pint pot, which is preferable. Early in the season place them in a gentle hot bed to start them. After they begin to grow and the weather becomes warm, the glass may be removed, and, if they are carefully watered and shaded, it will be safe to set them out in the open ground in June, or they can be transferred to larger pots, as may be desired. Single bud cuttings were largely used some years ago for producing morus multicaulis, but are now resorted to almost exclusively for increasing rapidly choice varieties of the

grape.

BRANCH CUTTINGS.

Fig. 82.

a. An ordinary woody cutting.

b. A woody cutting with half an inch of last year's wood at the butt.

c. A cutting slipped off from the main stem, having the butt smoothly trimmed, commonly called a "slip."

d. A currant cutting with the underground buds cut off at the shoulder.

e. Cutting with its "callous" formed at the butt preparatory to rooting. f. Cutting with roots and leaves put forth, ready for setting out.

Branch cuttings should have five or more buds, or three if very long jointed, and must be smoothly cut with a sharp knife just below and close by the lower bud (Fig. 82 a). If a small piece of the old wood can be left at the butt of the cutting it will more certainly succeed (Fig. 82 b). This object is equally secured by slipping off the cutting from its main stem and trimming it smoothly, and shortening it as in Fig. 82 c.

To prevent a habit of throwing up stem suckers, to which currants and gooseberries especially are liable, the buds may be cut off or broken clean out with the heart from that portion of the cutting which is covered in planting, leaving the budshoulder and bark of the branch uninjured, Fig. 82 d. Fig. 82 e and ƒ show the incipient and progressive growth of cuttings. In general, cuttings should be planted so as to leave at discretion from one to three buds above ground. (See also p. 438.) When

made in the fall, they should be very carefully planted, and mulched between the rows late in the season, which will both promote safe wintering, and supply a needful shade in spring.

Cuttings of all kinds, that may have become dried even to shriveling, may be restored by carefully soaking them before planting, and shading and watering afterward.

LAYERING.

Fig. 83.

a

d

a. Layer sprouts, the heavier one too strong for layering, unless toward its extremity. b. Ordinary layering, with the tongues cut too sharp.

c. Ordinary layering, with the tongues cut nearly upon the upper side of the sprout, and nibbed close to the bud.

d. Common layering on a heavy sprout, rendered manageable by a cut on the upper curve.