or by one at each end. There is also a smaller boat, or punt, intended for one person, but frequently occupied by two or three, if willing, and accustomed, to sit perfectly quiet; and generally paddled by women; which, being flat-bottomed, of very thin wood, or sometimes merely a trunk of a tree hollowed out, about thirteen feet long, and three broad, is so light, that it can be carried about, like an old British coracle.

While at Fort Opus, I wrote a letter to the Vizir of Herzegovina, proposing a visit to his capital, and requesting permission to draw, and measure, the famous bridge of Mostar, without any interruption from the people, or the authorities of the city. And the Pretore having undertaken to forward it, with a strong recommendation, I set off for Metcovich, the last town on the frontier, to await the

answer.

Ascending the Narenta, in one of the trough-like boats, with two paddlers, I passed in an hour's time the Torre di Norin *; on a point of land, where the small stream of Norino joins the Narenta.

This tower was built by the Turks; and, pierced with embrasures for cannon, it commands the river. It was taken by the Venetians, under Pietro Valier, in 1685 †; and the following year, Cornaro obliged the Turks to retire from before it, and

* According to the Venetian mode of cutting off the final vowel. Called also Narin, or Narino.

† See the History.

from Fort Opus; which, from that time, remained in the hands of the Venetians. The river's banks are overgrown with reeds, wild vines, alders, willows, and thick bushes; and, on approaching Metcovich, it winds so much, that I found it far more expeditious to leave the boat, and walk to the village, along the excellent road, made by the French, during their occupation of Dalmatia. From this point to Metcovich is about one mile; and the whole distance from Fort Opus by land is about five.

As the Sindaco, to whom I had a letter, was absent at a marriage, I was lodged at the house of his deputy, to whom I was indebted for much civility during my stay. The marriage caused great bustle and animation, in the village; and on the return of the cortège, the display of flags, and an incessant discharge of guns and pistols, continued for several days.

Metcovich contains about 500 inhabitants, who are mostly Morlacchi, fifty or sixty of whom are of the Greek Church. It stands on the slope of a rocky hill, overlooking the level, and extensive, plain of the Narenta; which is the most fertile part of Dalmatia, and only requires draining and cultivation, to call forth all the capabilities of its productive soil. As in all Dalmatian villages, the houses are scattered; and Metcovich covers more ground than its consequence, or the number of its inhabitants, require. It has a small inn, of the accommodation in which I can say nothing. I

dined there; and found the fare homely, and the cuisine very primitive.

In the afternoon, and again next day, I walked over, with the Vice-Sindaco, to Vido, the site of the ancient Narona; which is between two and three miles to the northward, at the edge of the plain. A raised road, or dyke, runs to Vido, from the Bazaar di Unka, which is on the river, at the immediate frontier; but so badly is it made, that heavy rain soon renders it almost impassable; and it took us one hour and a half to reach Vido. The canal leading to that village, overgrown with reeds, and water plants, and the quantity of land constantly flooded, make it very unhealthy; and the people have all the pallid appearance, usual in feverish districts. In this respect, Metcovich is far more fortunate than Vido, or Fort Opus; as, besides the advantage of a position on an eminence, it has much cultivated land in the immediate neighbourhood. Being also far from the sea, the river is not impregnated with salt water.

The small stream Norino, which runs below Vido, has a strong current, and the water is wholesome to drink; but it overflows its flat ill-defined banks, and contributes greatly to the stagnant pools, and the unhealthiness of the place. Its sources lie in a ravine among the hills, a short distance to the N. E. of Vido.

The village stands on the slope of a small rocky knoll, where it seems to have taken refuge from

the flood below; and no one can approach it, or look down from it, without wondering how the inhabitants can have lived through the feverish season. Numbers, indeed, are carried off, throughout the valley of the Narenta; and no stranger can venture to visit that district, during the hot months of the summer and autumn.

In the marsh below

Vido has about 480 inhabitants, Morlacchi, who are all Roman Catholics. the village, to the N.W., are the walls of houses, once belonging to the ancient Narona *, which are clearly seen in summer, when the water is low; showing how much the bed of the Norino has risen, since the time of the Romans. The same is the case with the Narenta, and other streams of Dalmatia; and the rise of the level of the Kerka has subjected the ruins of Scardona to the same fate, as those of Vido.

The plain of the Narenta was probably free, in ancient times, from the feverish miasma, which now decimates its inhabitants; and which, if neglected, will continue to increase; while its rich land will gradually be converted into an unproductive marsh. This can only be prevented by drainage, and embankments. But there is little chance of the economical Austrian government expending the

Fortis lays down an old Roman road from Vido, running northwards, about half way between Gliubuski and Vergoraz, to the west of the Trebisat, and near it some old Slavonic tombs. (Fortis, p. 307.) Fear of the Turks then, and quarantine in later times, have made a visit to them difficult.

sum required for such an object; and though it has been demonstrated, that the profits would amply repay the expense, all proposals have been rejected; and it would almost appear, from their conduct on this and other occasions, as if the Austrians expected only to hold Dalmatia for a few years; since they find an objection to the outlay of 20,000,000 florins (two millions sterling), for the drainage and embankments of this fertile plain. It was proposed to devote annually 500,000 florins to the work, in answer to the objection, that the government could not afford so large an expense at once; but this proposition was also rejected; as was another, made by a wealthy and well-known banker, who offered to undertake it at his own expense, on condition of having the profits from the land, for a certain number of years.

At Vido are several inscriptions, built into the walls of houses; but the principal curiosity is the abode of the parocco, or perhaps the parocco himself. He is certainly a character, and is known in all the neighbourhood by his eccentricities; for which he is ridiculed unmercifully. What is worse, they accuse him of destroying the ancient monuments, and of breaking up inscriptions, to take out the large bronze letters attached to the stone; of the truth of which I can say nothing; but from what I saw, I am in justice bound to give him the credit of preserving, rather than of detroying; and the walls of his tower-like house are