Or:-Skin the head and split it; then wash and clean thoroughly both it and the entrails-which consist of the "hinge" and "fry," and lay the whole in boiling water for an hour; then take out the heart, liver, and lights; mince them very small; and toss them up with a quart of either veal or mutton broth, a little ketchup, and a spoonful of cream, seasoned with pepper and salt. When the head is sufficiently boiled, rub it over with yolk of egg, and powder it with crumbs of bread; baste it well with butter, and brown it before the fire. Keep the mince hot; and when all is ready, dish the mince with the head over it, and the brains made into savoury balls as a garnish.

A little minced bacon is not a bad addition, and parsley, thyme, and finely-chopped herbs may be used at pleasure: the head may have a squeeze of lemon, and the mince a grating of nutmeg.

LAMB'S FRY.

147.-Parboil it; dip it in eggs, then in bread-crumbs, fry it crisp, and serve it dry, with fried parsley, without any sauce.

LAMB'S SWEETBREADS.

148.-Blanch them, and put them into cold water. Then put them into a stewpan, with a ladleful of broth, some pepper and salt, a small bunch of button onions, and a blade of mace: stir in a bit of butter and flour, and stew an hour. Have ready the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs well beaten in cream, with a little minced parsley and a few grates of nutmeg. Put in some boiled asparagus-tops to the other things. Do not let it boil after the cream is in; but make it hot, and stir it well all the time. Take great care it does not curdle. French beans or peas may be added, but they should be very young.

To fricassee Lamb-stones and Sweetbreads. Have ready some lamb-stones blanched, parboiled, and sliced. Flour 2 or 3 sweetbreads: if very thick, cut them in two. Fry all together, with a few large oysters, of a fine yellow brown. Pour the butter off, and add a pint of good gravy, some asparagustops about an inch long, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, 2 shalots or some chives shred fine, and a glass of white wine. Simmer 10 minutes; then put a little of the gravy to the yolks of 3 eggs well beaten, and by degrees mix the whole. Turn

the gravy back into the pan, and stir it till of a fine thickness without boiling. Garnish with lemon.

To fricassee Lamb-stones without any addition.-Skin, wash, and parboil, and then cut them in half, dry and flour them; fry of a beautiful brown in hog's lard. Serve with the following sauce: thicken some veal gravy with a bit of flour and butter, and then add to it a slice of lemon, a large spoonful of mushroom-ketchup, a teaspoonful of lemon-pickle, a grate of nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg beaten well in 2 large spoonfuls of thick cream. Put this over the fire, and stir it well till it is hot and looks white: do not let it boil, or it will curdle. Then put in the fry, and shake it about for a minute or two. Serve in a very hot dish.

LAMB-CHOPS.-E. R.

149. Take a loin of lamb, cut chops from it an inch thick, retaining the kidney in its place; dip them into egg and bread-crumbs, fry and serve with fried parsley.

When chops are made from a breast of lamb, the red bone at the edge of the breast should be cut off, and the breast parboiled in water or broth, with a sliced carrot and 2 or 3 onions, before it is divided into cutlets, which is done by cutting between every second or third bone, and preparing them, in every respect, as the last.

If house-lamb steaks are to be done white-stew them in milk and water till very tender, with a bit of lemon-peel, a little salt, some pepper and mace. Have ready some veal-gravy, and put the steaks into it; mix some mushroom-powder, a cup of cream, and the least bit of flour; shake the steaks in this liquor, stir it, and let it get quite hot, but not boil. Just before you take it up, put in a few white mushrooms.

If brown-season them with pepper, salt, nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, and chopped parsley; but dip them first into egg: fry them quickly. Thicken some gravy with a bit of flour and butter, and add to it a spoonful of port wine.

BLANQUETTE D'AGNEAU.

150.- White Fricassee of Lamb.-Cut the best part of the breast of small lamb into square pieces of 2 inches each: wash, dry, and flour them. Having boiled 4 oz. of butter, 1 of fat bacon, and some parsley, 10 minutes, put the meat to it: add the juice of a lemon, an onion cut small, pepper and salt.

M

Simmer the whole 2 hours; then put in the yolks of 2 eggs, shake the pan over the fire 2 minutes, and serve.

ÉPAULE D'AGNEAU AU NATUREL.

151.-Bone a small fat shoulder of lamb, leaving only 1 inch of the knuckle. Mince a little of the meat from the inside, with some bacon fat, white pepper, and salt, and lay it on the inner side. With a large needle and coarse thread gather together the circumference of the meat, press it flat, and fasten the little bone as a handle in its proper place. Then lay at the bottom of a stewpan a large sliced onion, a lemon without any of the peel, 3 small carrots cut lengthways, and 1 clove; on these lay the lamb; and round it put strips of bacon about the size of your finger; throw in a little parsley, and cover the meat with veal broth. Set the pan on a very slow fire, and place wood embers on the lid. Simmer 2 hours. Keep the meat hot while the gravy is strained, and add to it a little velouté; boil very quickly, and throw it over the lamb. Put a ruffle of paper on the knuckle.

Or :-It may

be served with cucumber sauce, tomata, sorrel, or any other piquant sauce, after it is glazed.

PIEDS D'AGNEAU.

152.-Have 6 lambs' feet scalded, take out the shank-bone very carefully, so as not to cut or break the skin; soak for. 3 hours in cold water; put them in a stewpan with cold water and the juice of 2 lemons; let it boil for 10 minutes, take out the feet, throw them into cold water, cut off the bones of the cleft part of the foot, and remove the curl of hair that lies in the cleft. Boil very gently for 3 or more hours in some poêlée (which see) to keep them very white. Serve with asparagus, peas, and mushroom or white cucumber sauce.

CHAPTER XI.

VE A L.

DIRECTIONS for choosing veal have already been given. To keep it, we have to observe the first part that turns bad of a leg of veal is where the udder is skewered back. The skewer should be taken out, and both that and the whole of the meat wiped every day; by which means it will keep good 3 or 4 days in hot weather, if the larder be a good one. Take care

to cut out the pipe that runs along the chine of a loin, as you do of beef, to hinder it from tainting. The skirt of the breast is likewise to be taken off, and the inside wiped and scraped, and sprinkled with a little salt.

If veal is in danger of not keeping, wash it thoroughly, and boil the joint 10 minutes, putting it into the pot when the water is boiling hot; then put it into a very cool larder, or plunge it into cold water till cool, and then wipe and put it by. If in the least tainted, it cannot be recovered, as brown meats are, by the use of charcoal or pyroligneous acid.

FILLET OF VEAL ROASTED.

153. Take out the bone, fill the space with a fine stuffing, and let the fat be skewered quite round; stuff it also well under the skin as much depends on the quantity and flavour of the stuffing and send the large side uppermost. Put a paper over the fat; and take care to allow a sufficient time for roasting; put it a good distance from the fire, as the meat is very solid, and must be so thoroughly done as not to leave the least appearance of red gravy; serve it with melted butter poured over, and gravy round. Ham or bacon should be served with it, and fresh cucumbers if in season.

Although considered very indigestible, it is a favourite joint in England, where it is generally roasted, although it may be

easily divided into 3 parts and each dressed separately; that piece known in a "round of beef" as the "silver side" being roasted, and the remaining two stewed in different ways.

In Paris, a longe de veau is cut somewhat in the shape of a haunch of mutton, with the fillet and part of the loin joined together.

FILLET OF VEAL BOILED.

154.-Choose a small delicate fillet for this purpose; prepare as for roasting, or stuff it with an oyster forcemeat; bind it round with a tape; after having washed it thoroughly, cover it with milk and water in equal quantities, and let it boil very gently 3 or 4 hours, keeping it carefully skimmed. Send it to table with a rich white sauce, or, if stuffed with oysters, a tureen of oyster-sauce; garnish with stewed celery and slices of bacon. A boiled tongue should be served with it.

LOIN OF VEAL ROASTED.

155.-Take a loin of veal; run a lark-spit along the chinebones; then tie the ends of the lark-spit on the usual spit, drawing down the flap over the kidney. Cover it well with buttered paper, and tie it up carefully; let it roast gently for 3 hours. When about to serve, remove the paper, sprinkle well with salt, dredge it with flour, and finish basting with a small piece of fresh butter.

This joint is frequently divided; the kidney end and the chump. The kidney end sent up with a toast under the fat; the chump end should be stuffed like the fillet, or sent up with balls of stuffing in the dish; pour melted butter over the joint, and gravy round. It also forms an excellent stew if served up in winter with rice, and in summer with green peas.

BREAST OF VEAL.

156.-Cover it with the caul, and, if you retain the sweetbread, skewer it to the back, but take off the caul when the meat is nearly done: it will take 2 to 3 hours roasting.

Or:-Remove the tendons, and insert in their place a stuffing; then roast as before.

Or-Raise the skin, and force in as much stuffing as possible; skewer it up; this will give a very good flavour to the joint.

To stew. Cut a breast, or a portion, in pieces; fry them