had been led to suppose. He talks much, and well. After an interview of more than an hour, protracted by himself, he rose, and I took leave, impressed with his favorable disposition toward the expedition.

After the lapse of a few days I called again, and presented the President with the plan of a steamer we wished to construct at Asuncion for the survey of the smaller tributaries of the river. I also gave him an estimate of the timber required for this purpose -for this is one of the national monopolies and President Lopez being the government, all business to which it can be a party must be transacted with him. He examined the plan, read with care our list of requisites, and promptly said that instructions should be immediately given to supply us with the articles enumerated, and any others that might be necessary for our purpose.

We at once made preparations for building our little craft. The whole was intrusted to Lieutenant Ammen, who had drawn the plan, and now, with the assistance of one of the engineers, Mr. Lambden, began the work with energy. In the mean time I occupied myself with arrangements for continuing the exploration of the Paraguay. To obtain the necessary permission for this required some diplomacy, for in the treaty of commerce and navigation concluded before my arrival it had been stipulated that the navigation of the river should be limited to Asuncion.

There were unsettled questions as to territorial limits on the northern borders between Brazil and Paraguay, and the prohibitory decrees of President Lopez, in reference to the navigation of the river above the capital, were made with the view of forcing Brazil to terms. In excluding other nations, without any positive demonstration of hostility toward his Imperial Majesty, he deprived him of access through the Paraguay to the richest mineral districts of the empire. He said that, should he permit the Water Witch to ascend the river, Brazil would make the same demand, and he was resolved not to grant her that privilege in the present state of their political relations. I argued the character of our expedition; its manifest objects, which should not be considered in connection with others of a speculative or solely trading character. I suggested the possible value of its results to science, which I knew his intelligence enabled him fully to understand; that, in giving to the world a knowledge of waters "so little known," our explorations would confer a positive and immediate benefit upon his own and neighboring countries, while the people

of the United States, and others at a greater distance, could be only remotely or incidentally interested.

The point was conceded, and I was, of course, disposed to put upon it the most latitudinous construction; that is, to ascend as far as I could in an ocean steamer. I understood uniformly, in my conversations with President Lopez, and from an official paper sent me relating to this subject, that I could carry our surveys throughout the limits of Paraguay north, or, indeed, beyond them, for permission was given me to ascend to Bahia Negra, in latitude 20° 10' 14".

Bahia Negra is conceded to Bolivia by both Brazil and Paraguay. From that point the President could neither direct nor check our operations, for I had already received permission from Bolivia to enter her waters, and from Brazil to ascend to Albuquerque, which was some distance within the acknowledged limits of the empire. I in fact ascended to Corumba, and should have gone farther but for the limitation designated by Brazil, and yet have felt that I had not placed too wide a construction upon the concession of the President of Paraguay.

Before beginning the ascension of the river, I was obliged to contract for the delivery, at different points, of steamer fuel. This was again an official affair, and led to several visits to the government house. The agreements were all satisfactorily carried out; but the cutting of woods for such a purpose being a new branch of industrial enterprise in those remote parts of Paraguay, I paid high, considering its extensive forests that is, from four to five dollars per cord. The quality, however, was excellent, one cord proving fully equal to a ton of coal.

When we arrived at Asuncion, I was aware that the business to which I have alluded would detain me some time; I anticipated, indeed, unnecessary delay, and knew, from experience, that it was useless to complain. One must enter upon every work in Spanish America with rather a patient, philosophical spirit; but I soon discovered that, even with the Paraguayan, the almighty dollar had its influence, and believe that I eventually expedited the operation of my wood-cutters by adding a few additional pennies to the price per cord.

Pending these preparations, and to avoid, in some degree, the excessive annoyance from musquitoes, I moved to an apartment in the "Calle del Sol." The rooms were nicely whitewashed, and, to rid them of the army of fleas, common enough to every house,

my servant waged a successful war against them by flooding the tile-floors daily with water. The furniture was simple. There was a cot, with a snowy musquito-net, which had done good serv ice during a long cruise in the China seas; two cedar tables, two feet by four, served, one for dining, the other for books and writing materials; some crockery from the Water Witch, arranged by my boy in a cupboard, made a brilliant display, but a dozen richly-carved, high-backed chairs, which dated from the time of the Jesuits, were the pride of the establishment, for in art those missionaries were the Medici of La Plata. My "boy" was chambermaid, butler, and cook. Roast beef, chickens, mandioca―a vegetable that would in any country be pronounced delicious-oranges at all times, grapes and figs in their season, were the luxuries of the table. Fine fish might have been added but for the indifference, indeed dislike of the Paraguayans, like all Spanish Americans, for that food; for in towns rarely visited by strangers it is not often seen in their markets. Perhaps these may be considered trivialities; I allude to them in illustration, for my style of living was not surpassed, if equaled, by that of the best houses of Asuncion. There is no lack of neatness in their domestic arrangements, but no people are more simple in their habits; indeed, one needs so little in that delicious climate, the costly and elaborate furniture, considered now a necessity in our country, would be here an annoying superfluity. Imperial carpets and brocatelle hangings would be as much out of place in Paraguay as a costume of the dog-days upon a Broadway pedestrian in the middle of January.

Asuncion was first settled in 1536. It contains now about twelve thousand inhabitants, and is, according to our determinations, in latitude 25° 16′ 30′′ south, longitude 57° 42′ 42′′. It is prettily placed, the land rising, at the point where the city stands, some fifty feet above the river. With a few improvements, its position for commercial purposes would be eligible, but individual enterprise has little scope, for the playa or landing is government property. During our stay in the country a quay of stone was built, and, though undoubtedly an important work, it would by no means sufficiently facilitate the dispatch of business should Asuncion ever have an extensive foreign trade. The people are wedded to old habits, and will forever discharge and load vessels by canoes, should not some enterprising foreigner suggest a change. Owing to the extraordinary edicts of Francia, the streets are regular, and the frontage of the houses even; for any luckless proprietor whose