da called 'Rinconadra,' for the cultivation of the sugar-cane. Its product in the same year was equal to that of 'Sietos.'"

As the navigability of the Otuquis is supposed to be established from the high lands of Bolivia for a long distance in its course southeast, and as the expedition under my command examined it for thirty-one miles above its confluence with the Paraguay, it only remains to determine the connection between these two points.

The government of Bolivia has always been liberal in offering inducements to immigration, feeling perhaps assured that through the energy of foreign populations alone can the riches of that republic-the "golden" and the "garden" spot of La Plata-be brought to light. It is a source of gratification to know that the late explorations of the Water Witch have contributed something toward the consummation of such a point, by establishing the fact of an easy and safe navigation for ocean steamers from the Atlantic to Bahia Negra, a fact not before practically demonstrated, therefore not confidently believed.

"November 27th, 1853. Again under way; beyond Bahia Negra, little change in the aspect of the river or adjacent country to Fort Coimbra in Brazil, thirty-three miles from Olimpo, where we anchored after dark, and immediately received a visit from the commandante, who had overland orders from his government anticipatory of our arrival. This gentleman, Antonia Peixoto de Azevido Ravim Capite, said that he had for some time been watching for us, and at last, with strange emotion, saw the smoke and lights of the little steamer as she plowed the waters of the wilderness."

Fort Coimbra is the first Brazilian settlement south on the Paraguay, and it is the first on the right bank since leaving Santa Fé, twelve hundred and eighty miles below. In all that extent of country, though habitable, fertile, and salubrious, we have not seen one white soul. The entire province of Matto Grosso is divided into three military districts, embracing fourteen commands-Matto Grosso, Santa Maria, and Baxo-Paraguay. This last includes that portion of the empire into which our expedition entered. I called on the commandante, who received me in a small room with no superfluous furniture; for we must remember that Coimbra at that time could only be approached from Rio de Janeiro by Cuyaba, a distance of twelve hundred miles land travel and five hundred of river navigation; the land journey is over mountains, their passes in many places accessible only to mules. I should have been as

tonished to find here an officer of such intelligence and polished manners had I not learned that the "commands" of this rich frontier province are posts of distinction, for with the military duties are united high civil functions. The commandante said that he had been charged by his government to afford me all possible facilities in forwarding the objects of the expedition, but that, for reasons already given by the Minister of Foreign Affairs to the United States Minister, I could not ascend above Corumba, a military station one hundred and twenty miles beyond Coimbra.

It was a slight extension of "my limits," which had first been fixed at Albuquerque. This officer was enthusiastic in dwelling upon the progress of the exploration, "fruitful," he said, "with glorious results, and worthy of commemoration by a marble pillar. The little Water Witch," he added, "would live in the memory of the Brazilians."

While flattering us with these expressions, he frankly and unreservedly regretted that any limit should have been placed to our exploration. A steamer was a familiar sight to these Brazilians; the novelty was to see one at Coimbra. In visiting us, the commandante, as a military man, was particularly interested in the examination of our little armament, consisting of three howitzers. "They were," he said, "perfect pieces of ordnance of their class, and admirable for the field operations of his frontier position."

Coimbra, in latitude 19° 55′ 43′′, longitude 57° 52' 32", stands on a spur of a mountain of the same name, which here slopes to the river, rising not more than forty feet above it at the point upon which is placed the fort, a solid stone structure, which could, with some few additions, be made a place of great strength. It mounts six guns, long twelve-pounders, most of them of bráss, and very fine pieces. They completely command the channel of the river, which is here one third of a mile wide. Vessels in passing are within point-blank shot. The interior of the fort was in admirable order, and great improvements were contemplated, some of which were in progress. Within the walls were small stone houses thatched with straw, the quarters of the commandante, three officers, and a part of the garrison; the remainder live without the walls, where are fixed the families of some of the soldiers. Madame Peixoto de Azevido had given up all the comforts and luxury of a life in the capital to share this frontier home with her husband.

All supplies are obtained from Albuquerque or the neighboring Indians. The mountains and pampa adjacent afford little scope

THE CACIQUE OF THE GUAYCURUS.

181

for cultivation or grazing, the latter not being exempt from inundation, while the former offers little arable land. The new commandante had not been here long enough to carry out his contemplated improvements, which embrace gardens, as well as additional military defenses, by placing guns upon the heights of the sierra, commanding the fort in the rear. The low lands, for some distance above Coimbra, are subject to inundation; but, at the same time, there are reaches of firm land, covered with excellent woods, and never overflowed except in seasons of extraordinary rise.

The mountains are still insulated peaks or short ranges, probably spurs of the Bolivian sierras, which extend through Chiquitos. As at Pan de Azucar, so likewise at Coimbra, two insulated hills face each other on opposite sides of the Paraguay; that on the west we ascertained to rise four hundred and fifty feet above the level of the water, its formation being of lime and sandstone, with moss-like impressions resembling arborescent marble, of which we got some very pretty specimens.

The temperature on the 28th of November was, at 6 P.M., air 81°, water 88°.

The neighboring Chaco is here occupied by the warlike Guaycurus. While the attitude of Paraguay toward her wild neighbors has been one of hostility or non-intercourse, that of Brazil is now, and always has been, conciliatory. The great cacique of the Guaycurus, Tacalaguana, holds a commission from the Imperial Government as an officer of rank, and receives frequent presents for himself and tribe. He is always treated with marked civility and distinction by the commanders of this frontier province. His manner, not only to his own people, but in all intercourse with strangers, is lofty and exacting; he receives no present, not even a cigar, except from the hands of an attendant, and in return makes no sort of acknowledgment, considering his acceptance of the offering a favor and condescension. The wisdom of the Brazilian policy toward these Indians is apparent; it enables her to maintain upon her frontier a formidable force at little or no expense.

After placing a current-gauge, to mark the fall of water per day until our return, we were again under way. The commander accompanied us for a short distance, and returned in his canoe. It had been the intention of Madame de Azevido and himself to accept my invitation of a passage to Albuquerque, but her illness

182

THE CURALO TODO.

deprived us of this pleasure. At a short distance above Coimbra we passed a huge canoe floating down lazily with the current, and filled with what looked like an emigrating host. It was a party of Brazilians bound for the salinas. As we passed them the men rested upon their oars, and all gazed as if lost in astonishment at the appearance of our little steamer in these distant

waters.

CHAPTER XI.

The Moro Dorito.-Curalo Todo.-Tea, Coffee, and Milk.-Position of Anchorage off Albuquerque.-The Miranda.-The Tacuary.-Azara's Maps.-The Cambarasa.-The Paraguay Mini.—Corumba.—The Guatambu.-Hunting the Jaguar.-Fruits.-Return to Albuquerque.-Village of Mbayas.-An Indian Mission.-Rice and Cotton.-Schools.-The Padre.-A Dance.-Missionary Effort. -The Jesuits.-The Dinner on board the Water Witch.-Trade of Cuyaba.— Bolivian Refugees.-The Grotto Inferno.-Capture of a Sentinel.-Fate of the Refugees.-Birds.-The Jaguar.-Its Ferocity.-Lenguas Indians.-The Commandante wears a long Face.-The Yellow Parrot.-Anehored off Asuncion.— A Storm brewing.

"November 29th. Under way. After passing the Moro Dorito, a round wooded hill on the left bank, about two and a half miles above our last anchorage, the lands on that side are low, while opposite, short ranges or isolated peaks, alternating with plains of grass, are continuous. The most elevated and remarkable in ap pearance of these mountains is the Sierra Consello, twenty-two miles above the Coimbra. It rises near the river bank, fifteen hundred feet above the level of the water, and is covered with fine timber. The country on the left is higher than that between Olimpo and Coimbra, but is not entirely exempt from inundation at the greatest rise of the river. Many points, however, are well wooded.

"Thirty-five miles above Coimbra, on the left, a lovely grove of the aguaraibay, familiarly known in the country as Curalo todo,* or Para todo."

This tree abounds in the neighborhood of the Uruguay missions, and from its leaves, gathered at any season, but usually when the tree is in flower, is extracted, by boiling, a sirup known as the "Balm de Aguaraibay," or "Balm of the Missions." Before the revolution, each Indian village was obliged to furnish two pounds of this balm annually to the royal pharmaceutist at * Universal remedy.