318

PARAGUAYAN DISPATCHES.

State, the treaty referred to of the 4th of March, as I explained to you at our official interview, and in this aspect it is not possible for his Excellency the President of the Republic to submit to a new ratification on the terms you propose; and in this view of the question I inform you of the receipt of your note of the 18th, reaffirming mine of the 15th, and closing the correspondence."*

I remained but a few days at Buenos Ayres, to obtain a verification of the chronometer before entering the Uruguay, but kept the Commodore advised by letter of the state of the Parana. I was enabled to show him that the river had continued to rise since I descended it in February, and at that time there was not less than sixteen feet of water over the worst passes. I was resolved that he should entertain no doubts as to the practicability of having the Germantown towed up from a want of water; and in my last note to him from Buenos Ayres, dated April 20th, 1855, I say: "I yesterday learned from an acquaintance from La Paz..... that the Parana is very high, there being four fathoms of water at this time on the worst shoals."

Previously, at his own request, I had given him a statement, not simply as to the condition of the river at the present season, but details as to its periodical changes.

CHAPTER XVIII

Island of Martin Garcia.-Pass of San Juan.-Town of Higueritas.-The Brasso Bravo.-Rio Negro.-The Gualaguaychu.-Concepcion.-Frey Bentos.-Fine Pasturage.-Herds of Cattle.-Arrival at Concepcion.-College.-Saladeros.Town of Paisandu.-An Englishman's Estancia.-Current of the River.-Palm Forests of Entre Rios.-The Arroyo Grande.-Paso Héredera.-Town of Concordia.-Trade.-Salto.-The Salto Grande.-Killing a Partridge.-Rise of Water.-Tide.-Track Survey of the Rio Negro.-Town of Soriana.-Mercedes.— Sarsaparilla. Fossil Remains.-Megatherium and Glyptodon.-Health of this Region of Country.-Cattle and Estancias.

ON the 24th of April, 1855, we left the inner roads of Buenos Ayres, and, passing through the shipping in the outer roads, stood

*"El Exmo. Señor Presidente de la Republica ha notificado lisa y llanamente el 12 de Marzo de 1853, con dictamen de su consejo de Estado, el Tratado referido de 4 del propio Marzo, como he manifestado á U. S. en nuestra conferencia oficial, y en esta positura no es dable que S. E. el Sr. Presidente de la Republica se someta á nueva ratificacion en los terminos que U. S. el presente aviso de racibo de su nota referida del 18, reproduciendo mi anterior del 15, y dando por cerrada esta correspondencia."

EXPEDITION TO THE URUGUAY.

319 for the entrance to the Martin Garcia Channel. I quote from my journal of this date:

"Steered a N.E. course per compass from the man-of-war anchorage, carrying not less than fifteen feet water, until the high lands of San Juan (on the Banda Oriental side) were made on the same bearing, and with Martin Garcia N.W. by W.; a single ombu south of San Juan, E.N.E., and two ombus near Colonia, E.S.E. We passed the bar of San Juan with not less than fourteen feet of water, although I am confident we were not in the channel, as the pilot also thought."

In returning, after having completed the survey of the Uruguay, I find the following entry in my journal:

"Left the island Martin Garcia, having obtained all the required observations, and when the high lands of San Juan bore N. 42° E., and Martin Garcia N. 60° W., stood across the bank, steering S.S.W., to the outer roads of Buenos Ayres; least water at low tide ten feet. Martin Garcia was plainly in sight, distant about twelve miles, where the course was shaped for the outer roads."

The bank here alluded to is that immense shoal between the Palma Pass and the Guazu, formed by the gradual accretion of alluvial matter brought down by the branches into which the Parana is divided by the numerous islands forming its delta. It extends from the base of the delta south and east, gradually diminishing and the depth of water increasing, until it is lost in the main channel of La Plata. The new channel discovered in our work gives a greater depth, by two feet, into the Parana and Uruguay, showing that sixteen feet water may be carried into either of those rivers, over the bar of San Juan, at the ordinary low state of the tide. By tidal observations, made at Martin Garcia during the month of August, 1855, the ordinary rise was two to three feet; that produced by the wind at southeast, when not blowing fresh, varied from three to four feet.

"Anchored at Higueritas, about four hundred yards from the shore, in fifteen feet of water. This little town in the Banda Oriental is the first met with on entering the Uruguay. It stands half a mile inland, upon a ridge that slopes to the plain bordering the river. The shore line is crescent-shaped, the horns protecting the anchorage from those southeast winds which often delay for months the discharge and loading of vessels at Buenos Ayres. Cabot entered the mouth of the Uruguay, and may have been deterred from forming any settlement upon its banks by the fero

cious character of the Indians, who massacred a boat party that had, under the command of Alvarez Ramon, ascended some distance; but in recognizing the superior advantages of Higueritas as a port, we wonder that it should have escaped the keen eye of De Garay when seeking the site of a commercial town near the Atlantic. The anchorage is open from S.W. to N.W., the width of the river, and its waters could be agitated by no sea that would delay the dispatch of vessels. Within the bar of San Juan the depth varies from three to ten fathoms, and off this place, at a distance of from three hundred yards to three quarters of a mile, from two to six fathoms, with a gradual inclination of the bottom to the, shore. In the neighborhood are fine granite quarries, from which exhaustless supplies of building material could be obtained. The Braso Bravo, one of the branches of the Parana, which is equally navigable with the Guazu, empties into the Uruguay directly opposite Higueritas, and the Braso Largo, another arm, a little above. This river is the dividing line between the Banda Oriental and Entre Rios, and the aspect of the country upon the right and the left presents for some distance in ascending a striking contrast. The shores on the left rise precipitously from the water, and the interior country, so far as the eye can reach, is a series of grassy undulations clear of wood. The right banks are low and wooded. As we advance, the bright green turf lands of Entre Rios gradually rise from the very margin of the river some sixty feet, the general elevation of the country. On the left the banks of the Uruguay and its small tributary streams from the Banda Oriental are skirted with quebracho, urunday, etc., while clumps of espinilla give a park-like appearance to the interior country."

The width of the river varies from four to seven miles; its waters are turbid, and the channel not so well defined as that of the Parana; but there is ample depth for the Water Witch. The first affluent of any importance is the Rio Negro, which rises in the interior of the Banda Oriental, and empties by several arms. into the Uruguay, the vast expanse of which is here interrupted by low wooded islands: Islas Boca, Falsa, Rondo, Lobos, Jaguar, Jaguar Chico, and Biscaino.

Twelve miles above Rio Negro, the Gualaguaychu empties into the Uruguay from the right; opposite, and six miles distant—the width of the river at this point-is Frey Bentos, an anchorage for all large vessels engaged in the trade of Concepcion del Uruguay

and the town of Gualaguaychu, which latter is situated on the right bank of a stream of the same name, and nine miles above its mouth. Vessels of considerable size can go up to Concepcion, but they drop down here to complete cargo.

Nine feet can be carried within a mile of the mouth of the Gualaguaychu, but at this point is encountered a bar over which there is but six feet at low water, and from eight and a half to nine at high. This depth may be carried up to the town, which, as the centre of a rich grazing state, must become—indeed is—a place of commercial activity, notwithstanding the inconvenience of transhipment, fifteen miles from the port. Its exports-hides, tallow, jerked beef, and bone manure, are brought down to Frey Bentos in large sail-boats and small-decked craft. In 1849 it contained but 7000 inhabitants, but under the benign influence of constitutional government its population and trade have increased a hundred per cent. Two years have elapsed since my first visit, and I not only find its extent doubled, by new squares and streets, but the public and private buildings are handsome and substantial structures. Among them are a government house, theatre, and a private dwelling for General Urquiza. American pine lumber, now extensively used in the growing towns on the Parana, is also in demand here.

Settlers are availing themselves of the liberal policy which governs the distribution or sale of public lands. The payment of a few shillings for recording the title will secure a fine chacra (farm), or even lots within the limits of a town, with the sole obligation that the receiver shall occupy it himself, or by proxy, if a town lot; or if a farm, inclose it within six months.

The territory of this department extends from the Gualaguay River-coasting the Parana, to its entrance into the Uruguay, thence along the river to the Gualaguaychu, embracing ten judicial districts. Independent of its foreign commerce, which is steadily increasing, it has considerable trade with Buenos Ayres and Montevideo. This is carried on in vessels of light draught. The discriminating duties, recently imposed by the Argentine government upon interior trade, will necessarily induce foreign ships to its ports. This will prove a great gain to both buyer and seller. The estimated amount of exports from Gualaguaychu for the year 1851 was $447,273; and that of imports $179,929.

Ascending from Frey Bentos, the course of the river changes from north to east, washing on two sides the Rincon de Gallinas

-a corner of Banda Oriental, embracing many square leagues, and almost insulated by the Rio Negro and the Uruguay. It is entirely unoccupied, except by the huts of a few woodmen, who pay a small sum for the privilege of cutting its espinilla for the Buenos Ayres market, and yet it presents one of the most desirable points on this river for the establishment of estancias. A fence across the narrow neck, connecting it with the main land, would effectually prevent one of the embarrassments complained of by the estancieros-the straying of young cattle before they have received their "mark." Its verdant ridges afford extended views of land and water, and would be beautiful sites for dwellings.

Between Frey Bentos and Concepcion-a distance by the course of the river of 50 miles-the lands of Entre Rios, where seen from the channel, were undulating, ranging some 50 or 60 feet above the river. The pasturage was fine, and herds of cattle, droves of horses, and flocks of sheep covered its green slopes. The view of the main land was sometimes intercepted entirely by high islands, many of them covered by a dense but indifferent vegetation; others had a large number of peach-trees; willows abounded, and, in the absence of better wood, are burned for charcoal.

We left the main channel, which continues near the shores of the Banda Oriental, to test the practicability of one between the islands Bopigua and Laguna. Though contracted, it is perfectly safe and unobstructed. We entered a riacho, and passing the mouth of the Arroyo da China, upon which stream is established a vast saladero, we anchored off Concepcion.

Our reception now-as on a former occasion, when I visited this town with Messrs. Pendleton and Schenck-was extremely flattering, and showed that the services of the Water Witch were remembered gratefully. Beef and vegetables were sent by the authorities for the use of the crew, and every possible courtesy was extended to the officers. Among other civilities we received and accepted an invitation to a ball given in celebration of the anniversary of Urquiza's proclamation against Rosas in 1851.

Concepcion has 5000 inhabitants, and is prettily situated on high land, about half a mile from the river. I have before alluded to its primary school and college, established by Urquiza. Both these institutions were at this time in the most flourishing condition. General Urquiza is a native of Entre Rios, resides much at San José,* and takes great interest in the growth and *The estancia visited by me in 1853.