The first three are military posts. From Tio to Cordova the postas are for the benefit of travelers, who may find at them all the usual accommodations-an empty house, scanty fare, hide cots without bedding, and indifferent horses.

CHAPTER XX.

Cordova.-De Garay.-Population of the Province.-The City of Cordova.-Trade. -Rail-road surveyed by Mr. Campbell.-Madam -.-Cathedral and Public Buildings.-The Colegio Maximo.-Paintings.-Dr. Hawling's Tannery.-The Market. Copper in the Sierras of Cordova.-Señor Zuverir.-Mineral Districts. -A Journey to Santiago.-Appearance of the Horses: their Powers of Endurance.-Valley of Jesus Maria.-Shepherds' Dogs.-Divisidero.-Posta San Pedro. Rosario.-Hard Riding.-Posta del Monte.-Bed of the Rio Dulce.— Quichua Language.-Perqui.-The Harpist.-The Tropero.-A Dance and no Supper.-Caña.-Another Tropa.-Arrival at Santiago.

CORDOVA is one of the Western States of the "Confederation," one of "Las Provincias Arribeñas"-a region conquered and settled by the Spaniards of Peru; a party of whom, commanded by Don Diego Rojas, reached it in 1543. Don Luis de Cabrera, appointed in 1573 governor of those districts, founded the city of Cordova, with the hope and ultimate design of opening a communication to the Parana. While De Garay was engaged in establishing the settlement of Santa Fé, a man, from the masthead of his little vessel, which was moored at the mouth of the Salado, observed signal-fires lighting over the plain and a great movement among the Indians. Expecting to be attacked, De Garay was preparing to make the best defense he could, when the "look-out man" descried in the distance a cavalier; another, and yet another, until a number of horsemen appeared charging the savages in their rear. It was a party of Cabrera's followers, who here met for the first time the conquerors of La Plata. These

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northwest provinces remained a part of the Viceroyalty of Peru until 1776, when they were annexed to that of Buenos Ayres.

The city of Cordova, the capital, stands near the right bank of the Primero, in latitude 31° 24' south, longitude 64° 09' west,* on a plain 1240 feet above the level of the Parana at Rosario. It is the principal and only considerable town of the state, which is bounded on the north by Santiago del Estero, east by Santa Fé, south by Buenos Ayres, and west by the Sierras de Cordova; their highest point, "La Cuesta," rising 2500 feet above the plains. Numerous rivers-the principal of which are the Primero, Segundo, Tercero, Quarto, and Quinto-that intersect the state, fertilize a large extent of country, and flow east until lost in the sandy plains or in the "Mar Chico." Only one, the Tercero, disembogues in the Parana, under the name of Carcaraña.

The population of the state may be estimated, in the absence of all reliable data, at 100,000 souls, of which the capital contains 15,000. This is a lower estimate than is assigned it by some, and yet it would seem to be too great when we remember that thirty years ago it was given by census at 85,000, and that portions of the country since that time have been almost depopulated by civil wars and the persevering hostility of the Chaco tribes. Hides and wool-the latter very superior-have been the only exports, though the products of the state are as varied as its physical features: wheat and the sugar-cane attain great perfection, but the difficulties of transportation have limited their culture to the demands of a home population.

Cordova is a dépôt for the staples of the northwest provinces— Catamarca, Mendoza, San Luis, San Juan, Rioja-in transitu for Rosario and Santa Fé. In 1855, this trade reached within a fraction of 1,400,000 arobas, or 1700 tons; at a cost in transportation, by ox-wagons or mules, of 31 cents the aroba, or $25 the ton; and employing more than 6000 carretas (carts), 17,000 mules; the carts transporting 190 arobas each, and mules 14. The trade with Mendoza has heretofore been carried on exclusively by mules, at the rate of from fifty to sixty dollars the ton. But the spirit of progress has reached even this remote region, and a little-very

* The pocket chronometer had lost its uniform rate, consequently the meridian difference between Santa Fé and Cordova, as shown by it, could not be relied on; but we have, through the kindness of Mr. Campbell, the best means of determining its longitude, which is deduced from actual measurement, applied to our determination of Rosario.

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RECEPTION AT CORDOVA.

little-intercourse with foreigners would give a great impetus to the development of their resources. They had heard of Conostoga wagons and improved agricultural implements; during our short stay the subject of importing them was agitated, and the result was an order to the amount of $50,000, which was filled in Boston. I have alluded, in a previous chapter, to the arrival of the ship at Rosario with this cargo.

The route of a rail-road has been surveyed from the city of Cordova to Rosario, which will, when completed, not only promote enormously the facilities of trade, and do much toward strengthening the political fabric, but will rid the country through which it passes from the predatory incursions of the Indians. My reception was perhaps less cordial here than in other cities of the west; for the Cordovases feared that the navigation of the Salado, if established, would divert from their town much of the trade they hoped to monopolize. But, if the capital is not to be immediately benefited by the opening of that river, the northern and eastern parts of the state are; for the Salado is the southern boundary of the Chaco, and its navigation will be more effectual than a hundred military posts in confining the Indian within the limits of his legitimate domain. A glance at the map will show that both these highways extend through and reach into remote and widely-separated districts of the Confederation, and will offer an easy transit for valuable products which heretofore, from the distances to be traversed and the expense of carriage, have not entered into their trade. This road, the first work of the kind in La Plata, is considered by the Cordovases-and very justly so, when we remember the past history of the country-a gigantic enterprise. The prospect of opening the Salado had awakened even greater hopes in other states; and, as I progressed to its head-waters, through Santiago, Salta, and Tucuman, I was greeted enthusias tically, for news of our success in the work below preceded us, though I often traveled with the speed of the post from city to city.

al

Cordova is laid out upon the plan prescribed by the laws of the Indies. Straight, narrow streets intersect each other at right angles, forming quadras (squares) of 150 yards each. The better houses are of stone, one-storied, and built around paved courts, upon which all the rooms open. Neither in going or returning had I much opportunity of seeing the domestic life of its inhabitants; but, if I may judge from the appointments of Señor's dwelling, they are in the enjoyment of all the luxuries usual in

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towns of the same size; indeed, there were manufactured articles of other countries, the transportation of which must have cost a little fortune.

and her two pretty daughters

I accompanied Madame in a paseo to the Alameda, a square of about 150 yards, adorned by a miniature lake and fine trees. A band of music and a crowd of people, among whom were many handsome women, presented an animated scene. The anticipated launching of a small boat upon the lake seemed to be a general and absorbing topic of interest and conversation.

The principal public buildings are a cathedral and some nine or ten churches, to each of which is a square of 150 yards. There are also several convents, with grounds inclosed by walls twenty feet in height. Many of the Spanish writers allude to the relig ious fervency of the Cordovases, a character they perhaps still merit; for I was told that the wealth of the churches and conventual establishments was very great, arising generally from the donations and legacies of females.

The possessions and revenues of the Jesuits in this province were vast. Here was their Colegio Maximo, for more than a century the principal seat of learning in La Plata; and here also was the famous library so wantonly destroyed or scattered at the time of their expulsion. From their confiscated property the University of Buenos Ayres was established, while that of Cordova has dwindled to a mere provincial school, known as Colegio Montserrat. I was conducted through it by one of the professors, and was amazed at the extent and imposing character of the buildings. After passing through a number of empty rooms, we entered the church, the interior of which showed the remains of great splendor. The ceiling was richly frescoed, and the walls, indeed every available space, were covered by pictures, many of them blackened and defaced, less, perhaps, by time than neglect. A "Crucifixion" and "Last Supper" were in good order, and works of great merit. Around the entire church, in elaborately carved and gilded framings, with an armorial bearing and Latin inscription to each, were impaneled portraits of distinguished Jesuits. I could learn nothing of the history of these paintings, which I much regretted. Among them there may be, and doubtless are, gems of mediaval art; for not only was the basin of La Plata settled by members of the noblest families of Spain, who may have carried with them many artistic treasures, but the ecclesiastics, the Jesuit missiona

ries especially, represented every European kingdom, and considered no decoration too costly and no wealth too vast to be lavished upon their church edifices. Noble monuments of Jesuit industry and genius are to be seen in every part of the country. In the lovely valley of "Jesus Maria," about fifteen miles from the city of Cordova, I visited another establishment, which, after their expulsion, passed into the hands of the Franciscans. The buildings and gardens are extensive, and in the latter were some half dozen English walnut-trees, planted by the fathers, of superb size and foliage, their freshness contrasting strangely and impressively with the dilapidated walls and inclosures. The adjoining estancia is now the property of the Colegio Montserrat.

The aspect of the country surrounding the town of Cordova is picturesquely beautiful. Timber and limestone of the finest qual ity abound; tree-embowered dwellings of excellent construction and dazzling whiteness dot the plain, which, sheltered by the first steps of the sierras from north and south winds, is not visited by severe vicissitudes of temperature, and an admirable system of irrigation gives to vegetation a luxuriant freshness. The banks of the Primero were enlivened by several industrial establishments, among which were a large grist-mill, where excellent flour was made from wheat grown in the state, and a flourishing tannery, owned by a citizen of the United States, Dr. John S. Hawling, a native of Loudoun County, Virginia. The specimens I saw of varied colored moroccos were admirable. Calf, goat, and guanaco skins are dressed at this tannery, and a ready sale is found for them at Rosario and Buenos Ayres; indeed, from the difficulty of obtaining efficient operatives, Dr. Hawling could not meet the increasing demand. His best workmen were foreigners, and several were from the United States. Goat-skins were worth 311 cents, kid 63 cents, calf $1 50 to $2 in the raw state; manufac tured, they commanded, goat-skins, morocco, from ten to fifteen dollars per dozen, kid eight, and calf from five to six apiece. He considered the guanaco* hides equal to calf, and they were worth, in the raw state, fifty cents; manufactured, five dollars.

The bark of the algorroba, the leaf of a shrub, the molle-both abundant in the province-and the bark of the cevil, which is superior to all, but expensive, as it is brought from Tucuman at fifty cents the aroba, are used in this establishment.

* Vast herds of this animal frequent the plains as well as the highest mountain

ranges.