38

NEGOTIATIONS OPENED.

in the waters of La Plata to convey passengers and freight on shore, and the shouts-indeed yells of the drivers, the plunging of the beasts up to their bellies in the water as each boat would approach, made a din and confusion to which the noisy rivalry of hackmen at our railway stations or wharves would be comparative quiet.

On entering the "outer roads" our attention was drawn to the blockading squadron, under the "Argentine" flag, composed of three steamers, a brig, a three-masted schooner, and several smaller vessels, co-operating with the besieging army of Urquiza.

As our steamer had only a draught of nine feet, we passed on, and rounding the northern end of the shoal which separates the "outer" from the "inner" roads, entered the latter, where lay the squadron of the "inside" party. This was inferior to that of the "outside" party, and found its protection more in the presence of foreign men-of-war and merchantmen than from the water-battery which guarded the inner anchorage. A marked consideration for the lives and property of foreigners characterized the course of Urquiza throughout this siege. His great object seemed to be to reduce the city by cutting off supplies, and thus avoid the fearful loss of life and destruction of property which a bombardment or assault would have caused.

Arrived at Buenos Ayres, I felt that we had reached the initial point of our work. My first duty was to visit Mr. Pendleton, of Virginia, the representative of our government near the Argentine Confederation, and the public authorities of the place. In co-operation with Mr. Schenck, of Ohio, our minister to Brazil (who had visited Buenos Ayres for the purpose), Mr. Pendleton was engaged in negotiating a treaty with the "Provisional Director." I informed them of my letters of credence to the President of Paraguay, and my joint commission from the President. of the United States, wherein Mr. Pendleton, Mr. Schenck, and myself were authorized and empowered to conclude a "treaty of commerce" with that republic.

My letters of instructions invested me with full powers to act individually, should it not be proper or convenient for these gentlemen to absent themselves from Buenos Ayres, the scene, as we have shown, of important events at this time. Mr. Pendleton informed me that, having been invited by Sir Charles Hotham, the British minister at Buenos Ayres, to accompany him to Para

VISIT TO SAN JOSE.

39

guay, he had accepted the invitation, and availed himself of the opportunity, at the same time, with the ministers of England, France, and Sardinia, to negotiate and sign a treaty of navigation and commerce with President Lopez.

I was naturally anxious to see the distinguished author of a decree which had opened, for the first time, the valuable resources of so fruitful a region to the commerce of the world. Regarded only as a political move, it gave evidence of forecast and sagacity far in advance of the age of "his people;" added to this, it was a very essential point to obtain his good-will and favorable consideration for the objects of the expedition, so that no impediments should embarrass its progress while operating within the territory of the Argentine Confederation.

I expressed this wish to Mr. Pendleton, who immediately offered to call with me at San José de Flores, a quinta but a short distance beyond the suburbs of the city, where General Urquiza held his head-quarters.

Having obtained the necessary permission, granted only to the representatives of foreign powers, we started for San José, accompanied by Mr. Schenck. After riding through many barricaded streets, a ponderous gate swung back to give us egress; in going through which, we passed over a subterranean mine with train laid. The marks of war were upon the deserted and battered houses, which, standing between the line of the besieging army and city, had suffered in the skirmishing that occasionally took place. After riding a mile and a half in the country, we observed a group of officers lounging before a quinta. There was little of the pomp and circumstance of war about the quarters of Urquiza, and yet he commanded an effective army of gauchos. Climate and the habits of these soldiers rendered an elaborate commissariat entirely unnecessary; their food was beef, and beef only, without bread or vegetables; the forage of their horses the grass of the pampas. From the spirit with which many groups seemed to be amusing themselves, and the careless indifference of others lounging and sleeping on the ground, one might have supposed it the bivouac of a victorious army.

As we approached the quinta, several officers came forward to meet us, and said that our visit would be immediately announced to the general, who had not yet risen, having the night before given a ball, at which the dancing was kept up until daylight. While waiting for him, we sauntered through the grounds, where

we were joined by four other gentlemen, introduced as deputies from the Congress of Santa Fé, who had brought to the Provisional Director the Constitution which was to be submitted to the provinces for their adoption. It was modeled, they told us, upon that of the United States, save in a few points, where it would have been totally inoperative.

We were soon summoned to the presence of Urquiza, a stout, well-formed person, of medium height, with fine, piercing eyes, and frank countenance. His dignified but highly courteous manners at once impressed me favorably. If "without education," "a mere gaucho," as I was told by many, he has a natural intelligence and bold capacity which will enable him to administer with ability the responsible duties imposed on him by the people of the Argentine Confederation.

Our minister was unbounded in his expressions of admiration. for this "man of the times ;" an opinion which impressed me favorably, knowing his familiarity with the political events which had brought Urquiza into so distinguished a position before the world.

After some general conversation upon local questions, the subject of the expedition was introduced, and I was exceedingly gratified at the interest he expressed for its success. He seemed readily to comprehend the benefit which La Plata would derive from my anticipated surveys; and, as an evidence of his approval of the work, and of his good wishes for its success while operating within the jurisdiction of the Argentine states, he sent for his secretary, and directed him to make out the following instructions to the authorities of the Riverine Provinces:

[TRANSLATION.]

"Long live the Argentine Confederation."

"The Provisional Director of the Argentine Confederation.”

"The American steamer of war Water Witch, from the United States of North America, having arrived in the River La Plata, and her captain, Thomas J. Page, having expressed his desire to navigate the rivers of the Argentine Confederation for scientific purposes, I enjoin and command the authorities of the Riverine Provinces that they will not present any impediments to his exploration, but afford him all the assistance he may need or require. "JUSTO J. URQUIZA.

"San José de Flores, May 27, 1853."

The promptness with which this order was issued gave me an

insight into his quick and decisive manner of transacting business. In returning to the city, though no danger could be apprehended, as an act of courtesy he ordered an escort, commanded by one of his favorite officers, to accompany us beyond the lines of the besieging army.

I anticipated no detention in Buenos Ayres beyond what might be necessary in examining and procuring papers and documents which I deemed of importance toward facilitating our progress in the exploration of rivers over which, at different points, the neighboring nations-Brazil, the Argentine Confederation, Paraguay, Bolivia, and Uruguay-claimed jurisdiction, some concurrent, others exclusive; but an unbroken chain of circumstances

occurred to keep us for some months, during which the Water Witch was entirely diverted from the original objects of the expedition.

I appointed, at different times, a day for sailing, supposing her services would no longer be required; but before that day would arrive, unlooked-for emergencies arose, causing a still longer detention. I consoled myself with the reflection that she was engaged in important public service in facilitating treaty negotiations, which, as represented by Mr. Schenck to the State Department, "could not have been concluded without her." There

was no other vessel of war in port, and, from the state of contending parties, the services of one might be required at any time, to afford protection to American citizens.

At last an early day in July was fixed upon to begin our work, and, on informing General Urquiza of this determination, and offering to take charge of any communications he might desire to have delivered in our route, I received from him a letter of introduction to President Lopez, in which he alluded to the expedition as a work designed for scientific purposes, and commended it to his favorable consideration.

The officers looked forward with impatience to the commencement of the legitimate work of the expedition, and I had completed every arrangement for leaving Buenos Ayres, when I received the following letter from Mr. Pendleton:

"MY DEAR SIR, I am aware of your great anxiety to proceed up the river in pursuance of the objects of the expedition under your command, and it is therefore with very great reluctance that I take leave to suggest to you

* Extract of a dispatch from R. C. Schenck, Esq., to the Secretary of State: "Legation of the United States, Rio de Janeiro, August 23d, 1853. "I desire also to express to you a very high sense of the important services rendered to us by Lieutenant Thomas J. Page, commanding the U. S. steamer 'Water Witch.' Without his various services and assistance in carrying General Urquiza and his staff, when they retired from Buenos Ayres; in conveying Mr. Pendleton and myself afterward to Entre Rios, and in other duties which he, with his ship, was able to perform, I hardly know how we could have succeeded in bringing our negotiations to so successful a conclusion. The presence of the 'Water Witch' for several weeks, at that particular juncture, was invaluable, and all her movements strikingly exemplified the necessity of having a vessel of her kind and class, on almost all occasions, in the River Plate."