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UNDER WAY.

63 was about to enter with simply such additions to her ordinary outfit as a few books, instruments, and materials for the preservation of specimens of natural history, which could be supplied from the contingent fund of the department, in the absence of any appropriation by Congress. With no scientific corps on board, and only one or two officers over and above her ordinary complement, in a few weeks after she was launched from the navy yard of Washington we were steaming for La Plata.

On reaching Buenos Ayres, I learned from the "consul" the arrival at Montevideo of a cargo of coal, sent out by the government for the use of the expedition, and at once proceeded to that place. We entered the harbor in the midst of a violent pampero, which continued for some days. After the storm, we took on board as much coal as the steamer could carry, deposited a small quantity on shore, and made arrangements for the transportation of the remainder to some point on the Parana. The freight demanded for this latter service was so exorbitant-$12 per ton-that I found it cheaper to purchase a hulk of sufficient capacity to receive it all. Taking this in tow, I afterward established it as a depôt at the town of La Paz, in Entre Rios, distant about four hundred miles above Martin Garcia. This we found to be a convenient point for coaling, either in ascending or descending the river.

After a diversion of nearly four months from the legitimate work of the expedition, I now, for the first time, realized that we were fairly under way for the scene of our labors. I had the satisfaction of knowing that the time had been usefully spent in forwarding the diplomatic aims of the government, and in protecting the interests of American citizens.

64

TAKING OBSERVATIONS.

CHAPTER IV.

Chronometers.-Determinations of Latitude and Longitude. -Construction of Charts.- Delta of the Parana.- Diamante.- Fruits.- Oranges.- Peaches.Beautiful Scenery.-Mouths of the Parana.-The Parbon.-The Gualaguay.— The Repunte.-Periodical Risings of Water.-Islands.-The Seibo and Sause.San Pedro.-Obligardo.-Passage forced by the English and French.-Island Formations.-Variations of Channel.-Pilots.-Estancieros.-San Nicholas.Rosario. Its commercial Importance.-Advantages over Buenos Ayres.-Winds. -Letter of R. B. Forbes, Esq.-Banks of the River.-Convent of San Lorenzo.The Tercero.-Mr. Campbell's Survey.-The Chaco Hills.-Scenery.-Diamante.-Ferries.-Trees.-The Algarroba and Espinilla.

TAKING our departure from Buenos Ayres, the point to which all determinations of longitude were to be referred, we passed the island of Martin Garcia September 1st, 1853. The rates of the chronometers had been repeatedly verified, and they were found to be uniform in every instance. The work was consequently begun with every confidence in the excellence of the instruments. These chronometers, five in number, had been selected by the Superintendent of the Naval Observatory for this special service.

That the character of the work in its explorations and surveys may be fully understood, even by those unpracticed in such operations, it may be proper to explain somewhat in detail the manner in which it was conducted.

That portion of it under the head of "Surveys," which may be seen on the map, is established on points of latitude and longitude determined with care by officers who were competent observers, and with nicely-adjusted instruments. The latitude of these points is derived from observations of north and south stars on the meridian, their longitude by chronometer from stars east and west of the meridian and from the altitude of the sun, and the variation of the compass from observations of the sun. These were made with the sextant and artificial horizon. Those made during the day were always taken on shore; but at night, so perfectly motionless was the steamer that no difficulty was experienced in observing the stars with the artificial horizon on the hurricane-deck. The place of anchorage was thus determined every night, whensoever the weather would allow; and none of the principal points were passed without coming to anchor, and obtaining satisfactory re

CONSTRUCTION OF CHARTS.

65

sults for the establishment of their geographical position and variation of the compass. We arrived at the distances between the points thus determined by reference to a uniform number of revolutions of the engine, which, in a given time, had been ascertained to be equal, or nearly so, to a certain distance. Any erroneous estimate that had been made could not extend beyond the point of observation, so that there was at all times a check upon any error of judgment or irregularity in the speed of the steamer.

That the charts should give as faithful a representation of the rivers and adjacent country as the character of the work would admit of, there were at all times, when the steamer was under way, two officers engaged in it exclusive of myself.

An elevated position on the hurricane-deck, which gave an unobstructed view, was selected for this purpose. One of the observers, with the chart-paper before him, projected the course and distance, the width and depth of the river, delineating the topography on either bank, while the other recorded the same in his note-book, together with all such remarks as would illustrate more clearly any peculiar characteristic, such as the growth on the banks, whether suitable for steamers or for other purposes. The soundings were made at intervals of five minutes when in deep water, but when in shoal as often as they could be had. The velocity of the current, which varied with the locality, was repeatedly ascertained.

I have before alluded to the island of Martin Garcia as a military position of some importance, from its commanding what was supposed to be the most considerable channel of communication between the waters of the Parana and La Plata. It is of granitic formation, and occupies a position at the head of "La Plata" where this river is twenty-five miles wide, and yet at its narrowest point. Here also it receives its two great affluents, the Parana and Uruguay, their waters uniting about twenty-four miles above this island, and retaining the name of the latter until lost in that of "La Plata."

The Parana is the more important of the two, and possesses already a far more extended navigation, and affluents that present a vast field for exploration. We first entered its waters through the main branch, "Parana Guazu."

All vessels "bound up" either the Parana or Uruguay by this channel must pass within range of "Martin Garcia." Exclusive of this and the one of greater depth subsequently revealed by the

66

DELTA OF THE PARANA.

surveys of the Water Witch, there are two other branches, the "Brasso Bravo" and "Brasso Largo," farther north, through which this river flows into the Uruguay, and others of less importance to navigation, through which it communicates directly with La Plata. The principal, and only one of these latter worthy of note, and which will become, when its entrance shall be better known, generally used by vessels of six and seven feet draught, is the passage of Las Palmas, the branch through which Sebastian Cabot entered the waters of the Parana, and to which he gave the name it now bears.

A delta of vast extent is formed by the various branches of this river. Its apex, at the town of Diamante in Entre Rios, is distant from its base in a right line one hundred and seventy-eight miles, while its base, the line on which these branches empty into the River La Plata and Uruguay, is about forty miles in extent.

Diamante is assumed as the apex of this delta, because at that point, in ascending, we find, for the first time, by the approach of the firm, elevated lands, the width of the river contracted to one mile. To give a minute description of the innumerable small branches up to this apex, to follow them through their windings, would tend only to perplex the reader. They nevertheless serve a useful purpose by giving access to a labyrinth of islands, the wild fruits and charcoal of which lead to quite an extensive trade with Buenos Ayres.

During the season, the fruiterers lay their barks against the banks, and load from the overhanging peach and orange trees. This latter fruit is bitter, and used only for preserving, or making a very popular drink, which, in the course of time, becomes pleasantly acidulated.

The peaches are of excellent quality, and constitute a large portion of the supply of the Buenos Ayrean market. These fruits are not found on the low and frequently submerged islands which border the main channel-way-the Parana Guazu-but grow abundantly upon those in the vicinity of the pass of Las Palmas, and near the various other branches used only by small vessels.

In the province of Buenos Ayres the peach is much cultivated for fire-wood, and a tree of three years yields no indifferent supply of both fruit and fuel. Its growth in the wild and free islands of the Parana, and the perfection of its fruit without culture, are facts too extraordinary not to impress a stranger, who naturally asks the origin of trees well known not to be indigenous. My inquiries

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on this point were invariably answered by Quien sabe?-"Who knows?" Some of the more intelligent natives trace them to the forecast of the Jesuits; others to the boatmen who, prior to the Jesuits, frequented these islands, and may, without purpose, have cast around the seeds. Again, their propagation is ascribed to the migration of birds and beasts from the main land. This we doubt, for among the many isles of the Parana delta there are others of the same formation and age-judging from their strata-on which no fruits are to be found. So vast is the yield of these trees, that Buenos Ayres is not only supplied with fresh fruit during the season, but quantities are dried. Some enterprising citizens have also manufactured from them brandy of excellent quality; but this, like many other industrial projects in that country, has not been continued with perseverance or energy. When improved by grafting, inoculation, or the smallest degree of culture, the fruit matures to very great perfection.

Toward the close of our work, these branches of the Parana became the scene of operations during fruit season. A more enchanting spectacle than was presented at that time by these islands can scarcely be imagined. Poets would have reveled in it as a scene of paradisiacal beauty. The lower banks were fringed with aquatic plants; the little channels were shaded by the willow, whose long, drooping branches dipped gracefully into the waters, and formed archways, under which the boatmen moored their craft for the convenience of the siesta. On all sides the vegetation was tropical in its luxuriance, and the air was laden with delicate odors. The eye would have been fatigued by the gorgeous mingling of colors presented by the rich foliage of the "seibo," the flower and fruit of the orange-tree, the ripe tints of the peach, the brilliant bloom of various shrubs and parasitical plants, had it not been relieved by a verdure as refreshing as it was varied in its shades.

The general course of the Parana from its mouth to the town of Rosario in Santa Fé-one hundred and eighty-eight miles is northwest; thence, up to its confluence with the Paraguay-six hundred and ninety miles-north, and a little easterly.

We began our work, as before stated, by ascertaining its main channel, the Guazu, which, at its confluence with the Uruguay, may be said to bisect the base of the Delta, there being north of it the Brasso Largo and Brasso Bravo, and south of it the pass of Las Palmas and Arroyo Capitan. This last branch, though nar

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