imports and exports of the eleven provinces west of the Pa

rana.

Without due reflection or accurate geographical knowledge of the country, the interior position of Rosario-two hundred miles from Buenos Ayres, and nearly four hundred from the oceanmight be alleged, with some reason, as excluding it from a successful competition with that city; but when we consider the various influences affecting both places, Rosario, even with less capital, a small population, and without the habits or antecedents of trade, bids fair to compete successfully for a portion of the foreign commerce, and certainly offers larger returns to those whose enterprise may tempt them to become commercial pioneers in that quarter. Its interior position can present no permanent obstacle to the direction of trade; and, aided by governmental influence, and by the certain prospect of connection by railway with Cordova, more than three hundred miles west, Buenos Ayres may well regard its future with watchful jealousy.

By the introduction of steam, distance is annihilated; and Buenos Ayres, though she may become the first city of South America, with only a share of the trade of La Plata, can no longer expect to monopolize the business of a country whose extent and resources are sufficient to support hundreds of flourishing commercial towns.

The route of the railway to Cordova* has already been surveyed by Mr. Allen Campbell, of the United States, who has had much experience as an engineer in Spanish America, where he enjoys a high reputation. He pronounces it not only practicable, and of fering a profitable investment of capital, but as one of the most effectual modes of developing the resources of the fruitful provinces of the West, heretofore almost unknown, not only in the trade, but in the geography of the world. It would be an iron bond between the eastern and western provinces not easily severed.

There are considerations which would make Rosario, even when approached by sailing vessels, quite as accessible from the Atlantic as Buenos Ayres. The difference of time in loading and discharging cargo is decidedly in favor of the former. These difficulties at Buenos Ayres are too well known to the commercial community to need from me much illustration. The southeast winds, agitating the wide expanse of the river at that point, produce so high a sea that, during their prevalence, no vessel can either discharge or receive cargo.

*See route of this road on map.

The winds which create this sea are the fairest for the ascent of the river, and good for the beat down with the current. In fortyeight hours, or less, a vessel with a southerly wind should reach Rosario from the latitude of Buenos Ayres, off Martin Garcia, or any neighboring anchorage. Arrived there, no detention dependent upon the winds can occur. With anchor in the stream and breasting-lines upon land, a vessel may be laid near enough to shore to make a plank a safe pathway. With the erection of wharves, the town would be as accessible as any of our commercial cities. The Parana, from its mouth to Rosario, is not very tortuous, having a general course of N.N.W. The prevailing south wind is, therefore, fair in the ascent throughout this distance. I must not omit to state that such a wind is necessary to all sailing vessels, because the current of two to two and a half miles per hour will baffle all efforts to contend with it by beating. The Argentine government, with a view of promoting direct trade, has laid a discriminating duty on all articles imported from or exported to Buenos Ayres, which may induce vessels to proceed directly to Rosario for the sale or purchase of cargoes, rather than buy goods encumbered not only with a double export and import, but with the differential duties.

In descending the river no detention need ever occur, its width being sufficient to admit of beating down during contrary winds.

The trade with Rosario should be carried on in vessels of the class and size of the largest three-masted schooners. This construction and rig, which are peculiarly American, will be found well adapted to this river navigation. Such vessels are quickly turned to windward, and easily handled. Experience has shown that this rig is not incompatible with suitable size or capacity. Their draught of water should not exceed twelve feet when laden, the mean depth on the bar of San Juan, below Martin Garcia, not admitting vessels of a greater draught.

During the prevalence of north winds, the depth of water is so diminished as to leave ships, in both inner and outer roads of Buenos Ayres, resting on the bottom. These winds, being from the land, produce no sea, therefore vessels are in no danger, although aground. The south winds, fair for the ascent of the river, invariably produce a rise of the water, increasing its depth according to their force and duration. The depth of water to which I have alluded on the bar of San Juan is that of the old channel of Martin Garcia.

The new channel, made known, as before stated, by this expedition, east of the island, has a greater depth by two feet. The development of this channel has not been hailed by the Buenos Ayreans with the enthusiasm which usually meets all discoveries that may facilitate the trading operations of a country. In depriving Martin Garcia of its political importance, it obviates the necessity of treaty stipulations with Buenos Ayres for entrance. into the upper waters.

While engaged upon this work, I have been gratified to learn, by a letter from my esteemed friend, R. B. Forbes, of Boston, that a commercial firm in that city have, with eminent success, become the pioneers to our trade with the interior countries of La Plata. I quote from his letter, alluding to the first shipment that had been made from the United States directly to the port of Rosario. He gives, in a few words, the report of the captain of the vessel to his owners in Boston.

The captain says "he got to Rosario without any difficulty, discharged his cargo, and got his freight money. That Chistopher Columbus did not excite more curiosity than did the arrival of his vessel; that goods can be put on board at Rosario from 15 to 20 per cent. cheaper than at the port of Buenos Ayres, and that he expected to bring home some passengers, with means to buy goods, domestics, lumber," &c.

This is a beginning, to be followed, I hope, by hearing that the waters of the Parana are covered with vessels bearing the stars and stripes.

The right bank of the river from Rosario to the mouth of the Cacaraña, a distance of eighteen miles, presents an unbroken and precipitous elevation of from fifty to eighty feet of reddish clay; beyond this it recedes into the interior; and thence, throughout the extent of the river to its confluence with the Paraguay, the same bank assumes somewhat the appearance of the other. Up to this point the shores are low and marshy, and the course of the river is broken by densely wooded islands of recent formation. We had remained at Rosario, hoping for clear weather, to make observations for latitude and longitude, as it was my habit to establish the positions of all prominent places, independent of the observations that were made nightly whenever the weather would permit. Finding from appearances that we should be unnecessarily detained, and knowing that I should have subsequent opportunities of determining this place, we pushed on and anchored

76

SAN LORENZO.-THE TERCERO.

off the convent of San Lorenzo, about twelve miles above Rosario, on the same range of high land.

This is one of the old establishments of the Jesuits, and now held by the Franciscans. Substantially built, like all their structures, it presents a conspicuous but isolated mark on the plateau.

The historical associations of this vicinity are full of interest. Before the Jesuits entered upon their missions, Sebastian Cabot, and Ayolas, serving under the banner of what was the then great temporal power of Christendom, charmed with the beauty of the country and the hospitality of the neighboring Indians, had selected it for the first settlements of the white race in La Plata, "San Espiritu," and "Corpus Christi."

We were disappointed in our expectations of astronomical observations. My journal says, "September 8th, 10 o'clock A.M., at anchor off San Lorenzo. Temperature of air 49°, water 67°; velocity of current two and a half miles per hour. Last night strong gales from the southeast, with rain; this morning appearances of clearing. Remained at anchor until 10 o'clock, hoping to get observations for latitude and longitude, but without success. Proceeded on our course, the weather only preventing astronomical observations. This southeast wind has prevailed for several days. Six miles above San Lorenzo the River Cacaraña empties into the Parana; it retains this name only within the province of Santa Fé. From its source in the sierras, it is known as the Tercero, and it is joined by the River Cuarto at the distance of one hundred and twenty miles from its confluence with the Parana."

I am indebted to Mr. Allen Campbell for the most reliable information relative to this river. In the prosecution of his survey of the route of the railway from Rosario to Cordova, which lay very much along the course of the Tercero, it became necessary for him to make a very thorough examination of it. The information he was thus enabled to give me precluded the necessity of farther examination than had been previously made by Lieutenant Murdaugh and myself. It was my intention, before meeting Mr. Campbell, from the cursory notice we had made on our land trip from Cordova to Rosario-the road occasionally taking us near the river to explore it thoroughly. We had seen it at its lowest state, when the strength of its current was diminished, but were unable to judge, simply by inspection, of the declivity of its bed throughout a distance of three hundred miles. The examination made by Mr. Campbell left no doubt in my mind of the impracticability of

its navigation; if for no other reason, because of its great declivity -two and a half feet to the mile-sufficient to produce a current which it would be impossible to overcome during the season of high water.

This difference of level is a foot for every inch in the Mississippi. I quote the words of Mr. Campbell. "The "Tercero' is not navigable in its natural state, neither is it susceptible of being made so by artificial means, at least for any practical or useful purpose.

It is not unusual to hear the navigability of many of the small rivers of La Plata mentioned as being established, and even to see such statements in books, when no evidences are adduced, nor the names of explorers given in confirmation of such assertions. This has not only been said, but written of the Tercero. In a work upon the country, the author declares that it is navigable from its mouth to the town of Villa Nueva, a distance by the windings of the river of two hundred and fifty miles. Mr. Campbell says, "These ideas are entirely illusory;" and, as his assertion is based upon reliable data, no better authority could be given. I have no doubt, however, that the same means which once constituted the only mode of transportation downward, on the Mississippi, may be resorted to with success on the Tercero, when immigration and the friction of trade shall have awakened some degree of enterprise among the people, and taught them that time is money.

Passing the mouth of the Cacaraña, the elevated pampa country of the right, as before stated, recedes gradually to the interior; and not until we have ascended one thousand miles above, on that bank, do we again see high lands, and then not a plateau or elevated pampa, but isolated mountains and hillocks from one half of a mile to two miles in length, and rising several hundred feet above the level of the "Gran Chaco"-monuments, apparently dropped from the clouds or upheaved by some convulsion of nature in the midst of a vast domain, claimed by the neighboring republics, and divided among them by imaginary lines, but still occupied by aboriginal tribes who have never been subjugated or even disturbed by the white race.

Between the town of Diamante and Cacaraña, a distance of thirty-three miles, the river courses among low islands of recent formation, but wooded, and with an almost impenetrable undergrowth. As we ascended at the period of low water, I had an opportunity of observing their formation, which was composed of strata of black argillaceous earth and sand, showing at different