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Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine, by
HARPER & BROTHERS,
in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District of New York.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Urquiza's Decree, opening the Waters of La Plata.-The Expedition.-Its Ob-
jects.-The Water Witch.-Her Sea Qualities.-The Voyage.-Arrival at Rio
de Janeiro. Correspondence with the Government.-Permission granted to as-
cend to Albuquerque.-Further Extension of this Privilege.-Pamperos.-The
Morgan Wheel.-French Charts.-Arrival at Montevideo.-Quarantine.-Yellow
Fever.-Montevideo.-Its Trade and Population.-Colonel Paunero.... Page 25
CHAPTER II.
Arrival at Buenos Ayres.-Its Site.-Winds.-Higueritas.-Trade.-Buildings.-
Fruits and Flowers.-Landing at Buenos Ayres.-Besiegers and Besieged.--Our
Ministers.-Treaty with President Lopez.-Urquiza's Army. Visit at Head-
quarters.-Personal Appearance of the General.-He interests himself in the
Expedition.-Detention at Buenos Ayres.-Letter from Mr. Pendleton.-Treach-
ery in the Squadron.-Joint Treaty of Navigation.—Martin Garcia Channel.—
New Channel discovered.-Letter from Messrs. Schenck and Pendleton.-Break-
ing up of the Siege.-Senor Urquiza and Staff on board the Water Witch.-Pa-
lermo, the former Residence of Rosas.-The Dictator and his Daughter Manu-
elita.-Urquiza's Dog.-The Director's Demeanor.-The Voyage.-Ladies on
board.-Temperance of Urquiza.-He leaves the Water Witch.-Return to
Buenos Ayres.-Tribute to British Officers.....
...........................
CHAPTER III.
35
Letter from Mr. Schenck.-Visit to the Estancia of General Urquiza.—Framing
of the Treaty.-Marking Cattle.-Farm and Residence of the Director.-Os-
triches, Partridges, and Deer: Mode of hunting them.-Horses. - Return to
Buenos Ayres.-The Galera.-Reception at Concepcion.-The College.-The
Ball.-Native Grace of Spanish American Women.-Leave Concepcion.-The
Water Witch.-Coaling at Buenos Ayres.-Final Departure for the Ascent of
the River.
51
CHAPTER IV.
Chronometers.-Determinations of Latitude and Longitude.—Construction of
Charts.-Delta of the Parana.-Diamante.-Fruits.- Oranges.- Peaches.-
Beautiful Scenery.-Mouths of the Parana.-The Parbon.The Gualaguay.—
The Repunte.-Periodical Risings of Water.-Islands.-The Seibo and Sause.-
San Pedro.-Obligardo.-Passage forced by the English and French.-Island
Formations. Variations of Channel.-Pilots.-Estancieros.-San Nicholas.-
Rosario.-Its commercial Importance.-Advantages over Buenos Ayres.-Winds.
-Letter of R. B. Forbes, Esq.-Banks of the River.-Convent of San Lorenzo.-
The Tercero.-Mr. Campbell's Survey.—The Chaco Hills.-Scenery.-Diaman-
te.-Ferries.-Trees.-The Algarroba and Espinilla............
64
Left Bank of the Parana.—Survey made by Lieutenant Powell.—Climbing ́the
Tree.-Victoria.-Descending the Parana Cito.-Puerto de los Bues.-Guala-
guay.-El Puerto de Ybicui.-A Canal.-Paciencia.-Physical Changes.-The
Colastiné.-Capella de San José.-Santa Fé.-The Chaco.-Its Inhabitants.-
Parana.-Bajada.-Progress.-Pine Lumber.-Commercial Prospects.-Cedar.
-Surface Soil.-Dr. Martin de Moussy's Report.-Plan of Parana.-Buildings
and Population.-River Banks.---Estancia of an Englishman.-Feliciana.-La
Paz.-The Jefe de Politica and the Curate.-Fuel.-Pass of San Juan.-Course
of the River. Sullivan's Charts.-Wild Fowl.-The Espinilla.-Capibaras or
Capinchas.-Locusts. -Catching a Deer.-Riacho Caraguatay.-Riacho San
Geronimo.-Goya.-Capincha Chase.-Bella Vista.-Productions.—Fishing.—
Tobacco Island.-Hunting for Specimens.—Taquari Chico.—An Orange Estan-
cia.-The Camilote.—Arrival at Corrientes.-Visit to the Governor.-Visit from
the Governor.-City of Corrientes.-Easy Navigation of the River.-Fine Woods
for Fuel.-Resources of the River Provinces.-Table of Distances......... Page 79
CHAPTER VI.
The Waters of the Paraguay and Parana.-Affluents of the Paraguay.-Enter
the Territory of Paraguay.-Salute to the Admiral of the Navy of the Republic
of Paraguay.-Visit from the Admiral.-Boundaries of the South American Re-
publics.-Banks of the Paraguay.—Palm-trees and beautiful Scenery.—Guardias
and Piquetes.-Tres Bocas.-Guardia Humaita.-President Lopez and the Bra-
zilian Squadron.—Vermejo River.—Pillar.—Caña.—Caranday Palm.—The Ti-
biquari.-Salute of Musketry.-Villa Franca.-The Commandante.—The Las-
so and Bolas.-Oliva.-Villa Villeta.-A Cigar with the Commandante.-San
Antonio.-Mount Lambare.-Arrival at Asuncion.-Rise and Fall of the Para-
guay......................... 105
CHAPTER VII.
Interviews with President Lopez.-Negotiations.-Residence at Asuncion.-The
City.-Buildings.-Francia's Tomb.-Francia's Cruelties.-Isolation of Para-
guay.-Francia's System.-Dahlgreen's Howitzer.-The American Company.-
Celebration of Lopez's Birth-day.-Reception at the Government House.—Grand
Ball at the Residence of the Chief Justice.-The Speech.........................
CHAPTER VIII.
116
Departure from Asuncion.-The President's Quinta.-Salinas.—A Hill.—The Con-
fuso.-The Salado.—Estancia of Lopez.—Variety of Woods and Fruits.—Que-
bracho. Capiepomo.- Guazu. Cattle. - Hospitality. - River Scenery. - An
Accident to Engine.-Piquete Ytati.-Wood for Steamers.-Plants and Shrubs.
-River Jejui.-San Pedro.-Another Accident to Engine.-Guaycuru Rembiu.
-Government Estancia.-The Pacu Fish.-River Changes.-The Ypane.-Ar-
rival at Concepcion.......
CHAPTER IX.
128
Concepcion.-Yerba.-Government Monopolies and Restrictions placed upon Trade.
-Favorable Reception.-Guembe and Guembetaya.-The Water Witch.-A Ball
at the Commandante's House.—A Quandary.—Danced down.—Señor Tachiera.
-Costumes.-Wood for Steamer.-Rio Saladillo. Salinas.- Indians.-The
Caciques. A Shaking of Hands and a Smoke.-Palm Forest.-Salvador.-Heat.
-State of the Country.-The Abatiguaniba.-Caraguatay Guazu.-Manufactures
of its Thread.-Thorns converted into Needles.-The Datil.-Reptile Hunting.
-Supplies.-Value of Hide.-Piquete Arracife.-Heat.-Paso Melo.-Mount-
ed Indians from the Chaco.-Piquete Judiarte.-Guardia Apatuya.-Beautiful
Scenery. The Morada and Ytapucu Guazu.-The Children of the Gran Chaco.
-Equestrian and Pedestrian.—Size, Strength, and Longevity.-An Octogenarian
in the Flower of his Age.-Nabidigua.-The Mbayas.-Their Slaves.-The Gua-
rani. Spiritual Notions of the Aborigines.-No Word for God or Divinity.-Ahar-
aigichi.-Jupa.-Inferior Creatures or not?.......
CHAPTER X.
.Page 136
Rio Appa.-A Tapir.-Differences between Brazil and Paraguay as to the Bounda-
ries.-Letter from Mr. Hudson.-Point Rock.-Sierra Siete Punta.-Pan de
Azucar.-Ascent of the Mountain.-The View.-Speculations on the Future of
this Country.-Round Top.-Fort Bourbon.-Claims of Bolivia and Paraguay.
-Bahia Blanca.-Vuelta Pariquito.-Capon Chico.-A Boa.-Dorado, Pacu,
and Palometa.-Ascent of the Bahia Blanca.-Camelotas.-Suspending of the
Bottle to a Tree.-Proposition of Don Manuel Louis de Oliden.-Grant by the
Congress of Bolivia. -Decree of the Supreme Government.-Importance at-
tached to the Navigation of the Otuquis.-Extract from a Pamphlet by Mauri-
cio Back.-Fort Coimbra. -Flattering Expressions of the Commandante.-The
Guaycurus.-Policy of Brazil toward the Chaco Indians.-The Canoe .................... 160
CHAPTER XI.
........
The Moro Dorito.-Curalo Todo.-Tea, Coffee, and Milk.-Position of Anchorage
off Albuquerque.-The Miranda.-The Tacuary.-Azara's Maps.-The Cam-
barasa. The Paraguay Mini.-Corumba.-The Guatambu.-Hunting the Ja-
guar.-Fruits.-Return to Albuquerque.-Village of Mbayas.-An Indian Mis-
sion.-Rice and Cotton.-Schools.-The Padre.-A Dance.-Missionary Effort.
-The Jesuits.-The Dinner on board the Water Witch.-Trade of Cuyaba.-/
Bolivian Refugees.-The Grotto Inferno.-Capture of a Sentinel.-Fate of the
Refugees.-Birds.-The Jaguar.-Its Ferocity.-Lenguas Indians.-The Com-
mandante wears a long Face.-The Yellow Parrot.-Anchored off Asuncion.—
A Storm brewing.....
CHAPTER XII.
182
The Captain of the Port.-Momentous Question.-A Call at the Government
House. The Secretary of State.-Visit to the President.-The Anniversary of
Paraguayan Independence. — Minor Explorations. -Congress of 1812. - The
Consuls.-Francia.-Provisional Junta. Another Congress. - President Lo-
pez.-The Constitution.-Ignorance of the People.-Society.-Señoritas and
Flowers.-Paraguay Tobacco and Smokers.-The Siesta.-Another Call upon
the President.-The Vaquerano.-A Tour into Paraguay.-Señor Don Jaimi Cor-
vallan.-Perijû.-Señora Dalmacia.-Villa Rica.-Don Louis Homan.-The
Tebiquari.-The Recado.-Puesta del Estado de Jesus Maria.—The Dinner.—
The Peripo.-Mr. Francis Wisner.-Señor Sergente Lopez.-Señora Clara.—
Manufacture of Cigars.-The Taquari.-Fertility of the Country.-Medical Men.
-Healthful Climate.-Puebla Carmen.-Don Mariana.-The Yûn.-El Secre-
tario.-Ytapua..............
....... 198
Francia.-Religion and the Churches.-Ytapua.-The Commandante and Soldiers.
-Navigability of the Parana.-Carmen.-Equipments of Horses.-Mission of San
Cosmi.-Estancia San Rafael.-Maté.-Frescoes.-D. Ignacio's Horse.-Capilla
San Martin.-The Supper.-Missions Santa Maria and Santa Rosa.-Estancia
of Señora Casara.-The Merchant President.-Señor Cabeñas.-Capilla Caa-
pucu.-Señor Vasconcellos.-The Diezmo.-Public Lands.-Señor Bergarran.
-Iron Works.-The Waiter.-The Superintendent.-Ibicui.-Mineral Districts.
-Products and Exports of Paraguay.—The Surgeon of the Water Witch.—
Beauty and Fertility of the Country.-Presidential Election.-No Admittance.
-A Motion to make the President Emperor.-The Constitution.—Individual
Wealth.-Cotton.-Lists of Exports from Asuncion.................... ..Page 224
CHAPTER XIV.
Expedition under Geronimo Metorras.--Colonel Arrias.-Murillo and Lapa.-
Colonel Ariadne Cornejo.-Don Pablo Soria.-Steamer Pilcomayo.-Lieutenant
Powell instructed to enter the Interior of Paraguay.-Want of Game and Fish.
-Force of the Current.-Tobas Indians.-Nacurutu.-Palms.-Rio Saco.-De
loi Carui.-Visit to the Toldo-Paso da Lurbi.-River ascended one hundred
and twenty Miles.-Channel.-Descending a Cascade.-A Hunt with Dr. Car-
ter.-Lost.-Signals.—The Howitzer replies.—Safe Return.-Descending the
River.-Mr. Hickman.-Letter from Mr. Dana.. 243
CHAPTER XV.
Visit to the President.-Boat-cruise up the Riachuelo.-Victoria Regia or Mais
del Agua.-Orange Groves.-The Plow.-Posta Contaro.-San Cosmi.-Ytati.
-Hacienda Yrisbugua.-Race with an Ostrich.-Breaking a Horse.-Troubles
at Asuncion.-Visit to the President.-Consultation with Mr. Hopkins.-Return
to the Government-house.-Last Interview with his Excellency.-The Permit.
-Correspondence with Mr. Falcon.-Council at Head-quarters.-Americans on
board, descending the River.-The Navy heaves in Sight.-Passing the Admi-
ral.—The President's Indignation and the Seminario.—The Treaty.—Mr. Fal-
con's extraordinary Letter.-False Charges in the President's Message.-The
French Colony.-The Brazilian Squadron.-Outrage committed upon the Water
Witch.-What our Policy with South American States should be..................................... 263
CHAPTER XVI.
Lieutenant Powell dispatched to Montevideo.—Mr. Murdaugh ordered to explore
the southern and western parts of the Province.-Extract from Journal of Lieu-
tenant Murdaugh.-Cotton.-Saladas.-Sugar.-San Roque.-Return to Bella
Vista.-Goya.-Rincon de Soto.-A Tour in the Governor's Galera.-A Bivou-
ac.-Curuzu Quatia. — Return. — River Mirinay.- Estancia Bonpland.-Res-
tauracion.-Uruguayana.-Note from M. Bonpland.-Imprisonment of the Nat-
uralist.-Tobacco.-Coffee.-Lagoon of Ybera....
CHAPTER XVII.
288
The Dinner at Corrientes.-The Address.-Toasts and Wine.-A Cargo of Lum-
ber. The Saladero.-The Water Witch dispatched up the Parana.-Sudden
Return of Lieutenant Jeffers.-The Steamer run aground by the Pilot.-Fired
into from the Fort, killing the Helmsman.-False Claims of President Lopez to
the Channel.-Erroneous Statements and Fancy Sketches of the President of