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rate heaven as trashy because it is Amsmiz, and his final halt in the white cheap).

city of the plain. Tangier fills bls The Moorish evening follows swiftly thoughts this balmy evening-the on the day; the night on the evening. comely Eastern princess who keeps Hawks and kites are shrieking and court on the threshold of two worlds, whistling overhead; frogs serenade the her courtyards thronged with modest moon from a neighboring ditch, breed- paladins of finance and immodest diing-place of mosquitoes; scorpions and plomatists, Hebrews, Levantines, and centipedes meander in languid fashion Christians who casts coquettish from the foot of crumbingly masonry glances at that stern puritan Gibraltar, and prospect for plump feet fitting and dangles her wbite feet in the blue loosely in their yellow slippers; and sea and glances occasionally over her mosquitoes, having abstained during shoulder at the desert, listening to the the hottest hours of the afternoon, re- booming of guns before and the dronnounce their pledge as the temperature ing of prayers behind. Delightful, infalls with the light and return to their consequent maiden, all languishing drinking-troughs with renewed thirst. glances and veiled passion and feline The call to evening prayer sounds intrigue! in which European harem plainly from the pot distant mosque- shall you at last shine? very real, very penetrating. "The God Tangier once left behind, there comes He is God, and Mohammed is His the long ride inland, with the succes. Prophet.” And the pious glide, slip- sion of home memories stirred by local pered and silent, to the mosque, and color; the smiling fields of canary-seed, return home to their smoking kabobs recalling bird-shops in Soho; wheat and sandy bread. And the unbelieving and barley, recalling Tattersall's; fig wanderer bids his men prepare the and vine, reminding him of early evening meal, and is soon making in- produce in Covent Garden Market, roads on his mysterious tins of food walled in by heaps of stones or by im. that bring a half-regretful memory of penetrable cactus, defying all save the Westminster and the crowded lifts and camel and the evil one. pushing women at the Stores, and Memories of the journey, its discomwashing out the bad tea with good forts and its relieving humors, crowd whiskey. To the orthodox mind he is on one another this peaceful evening an accursed creature, vowed to the at the journey's end-of orthodox world, the flesh and the devil

chiefs who kept their faith, of others yet the more charitable would see in who kept everything else they could him a generous fellow, one who neither lay hands on; of ugly women who beats the beggar from his gate nor came near, and of beautiful women kicks his horse in the mouth, nor gen- who stayed afar; of winding tracks erally comports himself as a man of and bubbling streams, grim old kasbreeding should.

bahs, white Seeds wherein lie the

cleanly bones of uncleanly men, of carOnce more alone, and now replete avans of asses, and camels and mules. with indifferent food, the Nazarene One day a hilly track with broad lights a cigar and lies back in his ham- views of the burning plain; the next, mock and muses over his two months' the flat road, a mere scratch marked sojourn in that sleepy land-his land by the bones of fallen camels, too ing at Tangier, his unrehearsed stay clean picked to stay wheeling vultures with the mountain chief over beyond in their flight, with inspiriting glimpses


3 Castles.


• The Burial-place of saints.



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of the cool hills. Such vultures! mighty, guest. The dishes are placed on the bare-necked cleaners of the earth, the marble pavement before the caballero; chiffonniers of the desert; blessed fowl, the beehive covers of straw plaiting that keep pestilence out of the land are removed, and one discovers black and are sometimes rewarded by a care- olives, another kous-kous, a third a less bullet from the barrel of some savory

of chickens, rice and idle hound passing through the coun- onions. The interpreter strolls lantry in a brief space, and caring not a guidly towards the scene. Christian dollar, so long as he gets "Tell them,” says his employer, “to away safe, whether the plague comes give their master my greetings and there or not!

best thanks for his kind remembrance Our wanderer was not a sportsman of me.” of this stamp. He would without a "May God be with you!" says the qualm shoot many a brace of plump sweet-toothed Syrian; "thank your lord turtle doves for lunch on the trek, but for his gift, and let him see that next he found no pleasure in pumping bul- time he sends new dates and green lets into a huge, unwieldy bird, so im- figs, for truly my companion loves portant when alive, so foul a mass of them above all things." carrion, reared on carrion, when dead. “Give them half a dollar each," In and out of their burrows flashed the drawls the Englishman; whereat the lizards, brown and green, not as the Shami? divides a quarter of a dollar Latin has it, skulking from the ardor among the three, makes a mental note of the midday sun, but startled merely to enter it as a dollar and a half in from their basking-stones by the near- his weekly account of disbursements, ing beat of horses' hoofs. Every now and curses the head-slave, who mur. and then a slow impassive chameleon murs a criticism of the meanness of the would in leisurely measure cross the baksheesh for a scurvy dog, whose sunburnt path and lose itself in the mother (of like ilk) was no nicer in her brown grass by the wayside.

conduct than she should have been.

(This, by the way, is how all Englishof a sudden his mood changed, and men and their protégés-are treated memory busied itself with the crowded in the East, when too lazy to distribmarkets of the city ... their fen- ute their own alms. Is a Syrian cers, bloodless in their exercises as gentleman to have no compensation French duellists, their story-tellers, for sojourning in uncivilized & long-winded and fond of alms, and land?) their snake-charmers, who toy with Silently, and with a grudging salaam, filthy adders, encouraging them to bite the three ill-requited blacks fade into their owner's nose or tongue, in a man- the darkness; and the traveller tastes ner calculated to make decent folk half a dozen of the black olives and shudder.

gives the rest to his followers. These

squat around the dishes and a gutterOnce again these musings are inter- ing candle far into the night, chatterrupted by a knocking at the outer ing, singing, quarreling, withal praising gate. Once again the soldier flings Allah, who fashioned olives and chickopen the massive doors, and, with ens and fools of employers who appresounds of merry greeting, three stal- ciate not such gifts from Paradise. wart black slaves troop into the dark- And the unconscious object of their ening garden, bearing on their heads a scorn puffs away contentedly at his choice present of food from the late

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7 Syrian.


cigar, giving himself up to the delicious now civilized communities. It is the abandon of a summer evening in a land utter misconception of the romance of five centuries behind the times, yet marriage that has raised her to a with passing qualins of regret for that throne that she often shows herself home of his in the far North, where wholly unable to grace. They manage women show a little more of their per- these things differently in Morocco. son, and where cigars need not to be The grave old pacha pays a good price harvested on famine rations and gold to her parents for Fatma, and Fatma flake treasured as if it were the pre- by that same token he keeps within cious metal itself.

doors, carrying the key of her apart

ments in his sash, or entrusting it to a Morocco is a paradise for the wo- slave answerable with his head. Fatma man-hater. He who hath been scur- is pampered as long as she is young, vily served by the unfair sex may there and may even be treated with kindfind balm for his bruised spirit. Either

in middle age.

Sbe can eat woman is not seen at all or, if noticed sweet cakes and drink green tea or in the public ways, is cursed and sherbet, and deck her comely form in cuffed. Her highest ambition is to shoddy jewellery; and she can ride to batten on sweetstuff as a caged bird the bath, closely veiled, and get a passon rapeseed; when her youth and ing glimpse of the outer world, of beauty leave her, and kobl and henna which, on marriage, she took leave no longer stave off the ravages of like any Christian novice taking the time and domesticity, she is thrown on veil. And the good Si' Elarbi, her public charity as a private nuisance, lord, is secure in his household, and To the Moslem way of thinking, the would chuckle mightily could he but New Woman would be as impossible read of the matters that daily take up of acceptance as is the New Testa- the time of Nazarene courts of divorce. ment. During his first few days in the Divorce, forsooth! A good old scimiland, any Englishman feels his blood tar, with damascene blade, hangs beboil at sight of skinny and uncomplain- tween two silent timepieces in his ining old hags keeping pace painfully on ner hall—somewhat dull and blunt, the hot, sandy highway beside the and demanding perchance a second mule that bears their husband, son, or stroke to make doubly sure; yet brother; but habit softens the shock, would it divorce a thoughtless wife and to his first impulse of rebellion in more rapidly, more effectively, than favor of an innovation of "equality" the grave deliberations of a whole much abused in the fair cities of the mosque full of sapient fellow citizens. North there succeeds a cynical acquies- And Fatma has seen the old scimitar, cence in this compensating survival of and thinks it looks best where it male ascendency and female obsequi. hangs, and is circumspect in her ousness, this relic of the old order, at glances, particularly when, in the narthe gates of Europe and not quite at row market way. her mouse-colored the antipodes of New York.

mule brushes the glossy black charger Woman in Morocco, he soon per- of the blue-eyed Nazarene riding even ceives, is no more than a domesticated then to visit her owner and wondering animal; but then students of social whether that undulating form on muleevolution assure us that she was once back is set off by a pretty face. on that footing, purchased and fed that she might do the work of the Forth, then, to Si' Elarbi rides the house and bear the race, in what are Nazarene, having already visited him

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