SPORTING REMINISCENCES IN ENGLAND AND

FRANCE.

BY A FRENCH NOBLEMAN.

(In a Series of Letters to SARON).

CHER ET ESTIMABLE SARON—

For I address you in your anonymous title; and in reply to your flattering communication, beg to say that nothing will give me greater pleasure than forwarding you my impressions upon the sporting life of England; and the long intercourse I have had with it, and the numerous friendships I have been fortunate enough to form in it, will, I hope, enable me to write at least an unprejudiced opinion of the national sports of your highly-favoured country; at all events it will furnish me with a favourable opportunity of recording my sentiments towards England and the English, and enable me to pay a just tribute to many of your compatriots whose hospitalities and kindnesses will only be obliterated from my heart by death. To begin then with the beginning:

It was in the year 1814 that I first entered the army as a subaltern, in a crack regiment of Hussars. Previous to that period the intercourse between La belle France and perfide Albion (as your facetious writers in "Punch" call it) had been closed. Gladly, then, would I have availed myself of the opportunity of the restoration of the Bourbons to have crossed the Channel; but, unfortunately, my duty detained me in a populous garrison-town near the capital. Strange to say, even at that time, my "Anglomania" was very strong upon me; and I listened to the tirades against your nation with no little dissatisfaction. In those days you were looked upon by the majority of our countrymen as our bitterest enemies: a "ros-bif" Englishman was as great an object of detestation as he is now one of regard and respect." Johnny Crapaud" hated "John Bull;" and to use a commonplace phrase, there was not much love lost between them. Fortunately, such feelings no longer exist with the majority; and if they are to be found rankling in the breasts of a few, be assured that they are founded upon self-conceit, illiberality, and prejudiceupon that vanity which raises the possessor to such a high pinnacle (in his own estimation at least), that makes him too dizzy to see the merits of others-upon that narrowness of mind which pronounces nothing good that is out of its own sphere-and upon that jaundiced feeling which at once denounces everything that is foreign as base and unworthy. But to my history. Early in the month of August, 1814, my regiment was ordered to Paris; and I entered that capital doubly delighted with the prospects of its gaiety, and the thoughts of getting acquainted with the élite of the English society then thronging there. I had already commissioned a friend of mine, who had served in your army, to purchase for me a thorough-bred charger,

and three Leicestershire hunters; and great was my delight, upon reaching my barracks, to find my English groom, Tom Norris, waiting my arrival; the horses which he had brought over with him had been safely deposited in a horse-dealer's stables in the Boulevards. No sooner had my duty ceased, than I lost no time in visiting my new purchases. A bay gelding, by Young Driver, brought from the late Lord Egremont's stables, and whom I named Gem, was a perfect specimen of a thorough-bred charger; while the three hunters, Don Juan, Fun, and Screveton, were as magnificent-looking animals as ever were seen. The saddlery, too, delighted me; and, at that moment, I would not have exchanged my commission for the crown of France. The English society at Paris was now in a great state of excitement at the approaching arrival of the new ambassador from the Court of St. James's, no less a personage than the Duke of Wellington. To myself, who had letters of introduction to his staff, the anticipation was delightful.

On the 23rd of August, the Duke reached Paris, and took possession of the late residence of the Princess Borghese, Rue de Faubourg, St. Honoré, and on the following day was presented in great state to Louis XVIII. and the rest of the royal family. As a description of this ceremony may not be uninteresting, I give a slight sketch of it. The Duc de Noailles, peer of France-whom the King had appointed to accompany the Duke-Messieurs de Lalin and Dargainaratz, repaired to the Ambassador's hotel, with three royal carriages drawn by eight horses, to conduct his Excellency to an audience of his Majesty. Besides the royal carriages, the cavalcade was composed of three court carriages of the Ambassador, the carriage of the Duke de Noailles, and that of M. de Lalin, all drawn by six horses, highly caparisoned, and followed by a number of livery servants. In the first carriage were Colonel Burgh (now Lord Downes), the Ambassador's secretary, and M. Dargainaratz. In the second, Wellington, the Duc de Noailles, and M. de Lalin: the late Colonel Freemantle and Major Percy, attached to the embassy, occupied the third royal carriage. The whole alighted at the grand vestibule of the Tuilleries, and proceeded to the Hall of Ambassadors. The palace-guards were under arms. The King having returned from mass to his apartments, the Ambassador proceeded in cavalcade to the audience. The Marquis de Brezć, Grand Master of the Ceremonies of France, with his assistants, received his Excellency at the foot of the staircase, and accompanied him to the audience. The Duc de Luxembourg, captain of guards, came to meet his Excellency outside the Hall of Guards. The body-guards were under arms, and formed a lane for the passage of his Excellency The King was on his throne, having on his right and left the princes of the royal family, and the princes of the blood. The great officers of the crown were placed behind his Majesty's throne. On entering the presencechamber, the Ambassador made a profound obeisance to the King; who rose, and was uncovered. His Excellency having reached the foot of the throne, was presented to his Majesty by M. de Lalin. After this presentation, the King sat down, put on his hat, and made a sign to the Ambassador to do the same. The princes of the royal family and of the blood were also covered. The Ambassador ad

For a

dressed a speech to the King, after which his Excellency presented his credentials: his Majesty received and handed them to the Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs. The King replied to the Ambassador's speech with expressions the most flattering. The audience being closed, the Ambassador retired in the same order as on his entrance, and was afterwards conducted to an audience of their Royal Highnesses Monsieur, Madame the Duchesse d'Angoulême, the Duc d'Angoulême, and the Dnc de Berri. The following was the reply of Monsieur to the Duke of Wellington's address: "The King and all the royal family view with the most lively pleasure the selection which the Prince Regent has made of a hero worthy to represent him. It is our wish and our hope to see a durable peace established between two nations made rather for mutual esteem than hostility." Another ceremony shortly afterwards took place, which may be worth recording: I allude to the Fête St. Louis length of time the celebration of this fête had not been suffered to take place. This august name, which reminded the French of the most brilliant epochs of their history, had for a number of years been only inwardly breathed by them. Now again was the enthusiasm for the patron saint revived; and many a Frenchman's heart beat at the recollection of St. Louis-who was not destined to be the last martyr of his race-at the recollection of Louis XII., the father of his people; of Louis XIV., the pride of France; of Louis XV., under whose reign the arts and sciences flourished; or partly, at the name of Louis XVIII., whose return to the throne of his ancestors was to all the nation the pledge of peace and happiness. On the 25th of August this fête was celebrated at Paris. Never did the court of the Tuilleries exhibit so brilliant a spectacle. The great orders of the state, the diplomatic body, the French marshals, the general officers, the various civil and military authorities, the courts of justice, the tribunals, &c., &c., were admitted to present their felicitations and homage to his Majesty. On returning from mass, the King and the royal family presented themselves at the balcony of the gallery of the chapel, and were enthusiastically received by the populace. Nothing could exceed the expressions of love and devotion which on that day the Parisians evinced towards Louis le Désiré and the Bourbon family. The multitude of citizens of all classes presented a picture full of interest, Joy, confidence, and happiness were depicted upon every countenance. At the Opera-house," Pelage; ou, Le Roi et la Paix," was represented; and at the Feydeau, "Les Héritiers Michau" was performed. The allusions presented by these two pieces were eagerly seized by the audience, which on this occasion was really formed by the people. "Le Tartuffe" was represented at the Théâtre François. On the delivery of the following lines in the second act

"Nous vivons sous un prince, ennemi de la fraude,"

the whole audience rose, and received it with a burst of applause. The theatres were all opened gratuitously to the public. This reminds me of a good story told of one of your countrymen, who was not quite a Hertford, a Pembroke, or a Raikes in the knowledge of our language. The truly popular individual alluded to was in the

habit of looking at the playbills, in order to select some performance which he might honour with his presence. At last, one day the gallant officer accompanied a friend to the Palais Royal, and there, on a large board, were affixed the bills of the several theatres. It was a general fast, and the bills announced "Relâche:" Opera-house, "Relâche;" Théâtre François, "Relâche;" Feydeau, "Relâche." "Variétés Relâche!" said the astonished Britisher (as your friend the Yankees call you) "Relâche' at every theatre, that must be a good play; and I'll ask the Duke for a seat in his box." The laugh raised when he actually did ask the Duke may be easily conceived. The illuminations on this occasion were most brilliant. Among the transparencies were many bearing inscriptions which testified the love of the French people to their long-wished-for sovereign.

On the 27th August, the Duc de Berri, accompanied by the Prince de Wagram (Ney), hunted in the Bois de Boulogne: Wellington was of the party; and here I was first presented to your "warrior-chief." Nothing could exceed the courtesy and kindness which the Duke evinced towards me; and my vanity was not a little gratified when at the end of the run the Ambassador complimented me and my horse upon the prominent part we had taken during the day. The Duke of Cambridge had now arrived in Paris; and I had the honour of meeting his Royal Highness at dinner, at the British embassy. The bonhommie of this prince is too well-known to require any eulogium of mine; suffice it to say, no individual ever made himself more popular at Paris with the French and English than did the Duke of Cambridge.

On the 4th of September, Marshal Soult arrived in Paris from Rennes; and among the English was a lion of no little magnitude: it was a gratifying sight to see Soult, Ney, and Wellington in friendly

converse.

On the 5th of September, divine service was performed, for the first time, at the Ambassador's hotel. The English residents, amounting to one hundred, assembled in the great dining-room. The service was performed by the Duke's chaplain, and attended by the Duke. I was present on this interesting occasion.

On the 7th of September, the ceremony of the distribution and consecration of the colours of the national guards took place in the Champ-de-Mars. The King left the Tuilleries at ten o'clock, accompanied by a splendid retinue. After the benediction, his Majesty addressed himself as follows to the chiefs of the legion and the officers of the national guard: "Gentlemen, this is a delightful day to me; it is a new tie which I contract with my brave national guard. What may not be expected from the French when one sees such troops whom zeal alone has formed? Let the enemy come when he will; but he will not come: we have none but friends." At the conclusion of this speech a thousand voices repeated "Vive le Roi!" "Vive Monsieur!" "Vive Madame!" Monsieur, then turning towards the King, addressed him as follows: "Sire, the national guard is deeply sensible of the great honour your Majesty has done it by presenting it with the colours yourself. I can assure you, sire, that it is worthy of it. All are prepared to die for the person of your Majesty; and among so many faithful subjects, there is no one more devoted than

their Colonel-General." All hands were now raised: "Yes, we swear it; vive le Roi!" Touched by these sentiments of affection, the King held out his arms to Monsieur, who flew into them with transport. His Majesty pressed him to his heart, and tears flowed from many an eye. The benediction was given by the Archbishop

of Rheims, M. de Talleyrand.

On the 9th of September, the Duke of Wellington and his staff hunted with the Dukes of Angoulême and Berri at Grosbois. We had a capital run; for some of the young Englishmen got the stag to break cover, and he took us a good sharp burst over a fine open country. There were a few fences, and a brook which tried the mettle of our horses; I went like a bird (though I say it, as should not; you see I adopt one of your idioms), and was again complimented by an English nobleman, offering me two hundred guineas for Screveton; this I refused, being devoted to the noble science, and feeling the difficulty of replacing such a hunter. Shortly afterwards we had another military fête; for, on the 19th of September, the colours were presented by the King to the troops of the line of the first military division; the ceremony was a very imposing one: Paris, at this time, assumed a very animating aspect. Strangers arrived daily. Among your countrymen the most distinguished were the Duke's brother, the late Marquis of Wellesley, who arrived on the 22nd of September, and Lord Stewart (the present Marquis of Londonderry), who arrived on the 28th. Madame de Staël was also here; and, according to report, offered to write a military history of the reign of Napoleon: this proposal was rejected by the government.

On the 7th of October, the Duke of Wellington hunted at Rambouillet with the Duc d'Angoulême, and afterwards dined at the palace. I had the honour of meeting his Grace in the field, and at the festive board; and upon every occasion my respect for that great man increased tenfold. At the end of the month the troops were reviewed in the Champ de Mars: there were several fatal accidents. Four or five balls whistled very near where the Duke of Wellington and the Duc de Berri stood. Some said design, not accident, caused this.

On the 4th of November we had a slight breaking out; for General Dufour and forty other persons were arrested at a coffee-house by orders of the government. As my motive in writing is to enter into a sporting, not political detail, I pass over this subject, and proceed to a few most interesting parties that I formed with the officers of the Duke of Wellington's staff and other choice spirits, native and foreign, then in Paris. Our first pic-nic was to St. Cloud, where, in the apartment which Napoleon usually occupied, was a bust of Julius Cæsar. In the library were the following English books: "Letters of Junius," "Debates in the English Parliament," "Naval History of England; and an Account of Naval Battles." All had been placed there by "l'homme du siècle," and evidently bore marks of having been constantly referred to. A map of England lay unfolded on the table. Our next pilgrimage was to Fontainbleau, where the table was shown upon which Napoleon signed his abdication, and the bed upon which he lay the night before his departure for Elba. Turnerelli's busts of Wellington and Blucher were about this period placed in one