the engines had to be stopped for some hours. The wind being very light, we did not go under sail more than two knots, so I remained up most of the night with my towing-net, in expectation of intercepting some crepuscular pteropod or other oceanic resident, but only succeeded in capturing some minute tunicaries and acalephs. Many of the latter were highly phosphorescent, so much so, that by holding three or four near my watch, I was enabled to see the hour. Herds of sportive porpoises playing around us clearly intimated that we were approaching warmer latitudes, and, at length, on the morning of the 30th, we came in sight of Porto Santo, and shortly afterwards of Madeira. By the forenoon, after a quick passage of less than six days, we were at anchor in Funchal roads, admiring the steep acclivities and ravines so beautifully clad with verdure, and wondering at the strange contrast between the bright sea and sunny scenes near us, with the dark clouds settling over the top of the island, and frowning ominously upon us. No sooner was the anchor down than all the passengers, many of whom had never previously performed such a lengthened sea-voyage, or been so long out of sight of land, prepared for an excursion on shore, and anxiously waited for the moment when the vessel should be admitted to pratique. But to our surprise and dismay, the health-boat had no sooner reached alongside, than we found ourselves convicted of gross ignorance, and received important information on a topic, which we had neglected

enquiring into before leaving England. This was, that cholera existed in Glasgow, and therefore the sanitary magnates, considering that our transit across twelve hundred miles of the Atlantic had been too rapid to allow us to have got rid of the foul infection, considerately forbade our leaving the ship, and placed us in quarantine. Vain were remonstrances, protests, entreaties; the authorities had the latest and most accurate intelligence, and, moreover, they had all the power on their side. Consequently, the one passenger for Funchal was transferred, under a strict guard, to the miserable Lazarretto, and the ship was surrounded by boats bearing villanous yellow flags. Coal-barges came alongside, and commenced discharging their cargo; boats with articles for sale crowded around, and speedily a brisk traffic sprung up. Bunches of cherries were speedily bought up at sixpence each; and baskets, mats, and straw hats were in great demand. Our steward speculated largely in these latter, for which he gave a shilling a-piece, intending to sell them down the coast at half-a-crown, or more if possible. In making purchases when in quarantine, buyers can only examine an article by sight, as no sooner do they touch it, than whether they like it or not, they must keep it,— ay, and pay well for it too. It is a singular example of the foresight of the original framers of quarantine law, that money can always be easily passed from the affected to the non-affected party. Thus, while individuals and property of all descriptions must undergo

long detention, and purifications by fumigations, steaming baths, &c., the contagious property of coin is held to be immediately destroyed by simply passing it through water; and so when a purchase has been effected, the seller concludes by holding up a small cup or other vessel, containing water, into which the money is allowed to drop; and this custom prevails irrespective of country, whether the port be Portuguese, Spanish, Italian, Greek, or Turkish. But more seriously speaking, these quarantine absurdities are made extremely vexatious, as well as expensive to those who suffer from them.

In the present instance, not to mention merely the inconvenience, the owners of the packet had to pay for the keep of the coal-heavers for some eight or ten days after our departure,-an outlay which would not be grumbled at were there even a shadow of a reason alleged, but most annoying and unjust when enforced in this arbitrary and needless manner. Considering how much Madeira depends for its prosperity on English trade, the Portuguese, one would suppose, ought to be rather more considerate. Leaving Madeira about sunset, we sighted Teneriffe next afternoon, and about eleven at night anchored off Santa Cruz. The little bay was at this time lighted up by fishing-boats, which at night make use of large flaming torches, to attract the fish. The water here being very deep, we had to anchor not far from the shore, and although we were in quarantine, a mare belonging to a relation of the governor's was admitted

to pratique, by being made to swim ashore, while the harness was landed without any ceremony. Teneriffe, after Madeira, looks barren and arid; the ravines and the sides of the mountains being comparatively unclad with vegetation, and the whole country around having a more sun-dried appearance. Santa Cruz itself stands on level ground along the shore; and, from the anchorage, seems a compact and regular town, the most conspicuous building being the cathedral, the Iglesia de la Concepcion. Along the sides of the steep acclivities around, stone parapets have been raised, and the spaces between these and the face of the mountain being filled with soil, level patches have been formed, fitted for cultivation, while it gives to the hills the general appearance of a succession of terraces. Here we looked in vain for the celebrated Peak, but could distinguish nothing amidst the mists and clouds which then enveloped it. But a few hours afterwards we were more fortunate, as, when some fifteen or sixteen miles from the land, the sky cleared up and afforded us a magnificent prospect. We were far enough off to have a good outline view of the entire island, and along its steep hills the lights and shadows were beautifully apparent through the mellow atmosphere of a fine afternoon, while, towering high towards the heavens, the Peak raised its lofty head, the summit showing in clear relief against the blue sky, and halfway down a solitary stratum of cloud, partially encircling the mountain, gave additional effect to the scene.

After leaving Teneriffe we ran towards the coast of Africa, with the N.E. trades, carrying with us delightful weather. Shoals of flying-fishes surrounded us, amusing us with their glittering flights. Rising in various numbers, from half-a-dozen to fifty or sixty at a time, they pursued courses of different lengths, but seldom exceeding eighty or a hundred yards. Many flew on board of us, where they were of course speedily captured, and finally transferred to the cook; one, in its heedless course, struck a lady passenger, who was walking on the poop, with such force as nearly to throw her down. These fish generally rise from the surface with the wind either a-head or a-beam, but once up they can turn in different directions, though not at a sharp angle. Petrels, too, now began to follow in our wake, skimming along the surface, or, more rarely, resting for a moment on the crest of a wave; active little creatures, busily engaged in picking up small objects. So incessantly are they thus occupied that it cannot be merely on matters dropt overboard that they thus luxuriate; but most probably their bill of fare includes also various minute oceanic existences. The species seemed to be that known as the Fork-tailed Petrel, which is common in the North Atlantic. Early in the morning hardly any are to be seen, but after sunrise they may be observed coming up, either singly or in small parties, and they attain their maximum number shortly before sunset, after which time they begin gradually

*

* Thalassidroma Leachii.