upwards of a hundred feet above the sea, with a gentle slope which would permit of an easy drainage, with fine harbours on either side of it, where boats may land without trouble all the year round, with ample space for commodious storehouses along the beach, and withal with a good tropical climate. Behind it is every variety of hill and dale, and thousands upon thousands of acres of a rich fertile soil. The small yams of North-west Bay are considered as the finest in Africa, nor are the much larger ones of Melville Bay at all to be despised. Many hundred tons of palm-oil and palm-kernel-oil might annually be produced, and the forests teem with excellent timber. Such an island would be considered an acquisition anywhere, but situated as it is, it must be looked on as destined by Providence to play a very important part in the great work of African Regeneration. Clarence is just now but indifferently supplied with provisions, as the demand is not sufficient to raise an adequate supply. A curious epidemic annually commits ravages among the domestic fowls, ducks, and turkeys, numbers of which die during November and December, but I am not aware that this disease is general throughout the island. In the neighbourhood of Clarence finely flavoured oranges and limes grow in abundance, papaws are numerous, and a solitary bread-fruit tree seemed to be progressing favourably. We remained at Clarence three weeks, and on every Sunday Mr. Crowther performed Divine Service in a large and

commodious house, built by the late Mr. Beecroft,* but now belonging to Governor Lynslager. A large and very attentive congregation regularly assembled, the numbers varying from 100 to 150. The missionaries resident at Clarence are of the Baptist persuasion, but one of them now remains nearly constantly at Bímbia and the Cameroons, where he has a printing press, and where he prints works in the Diwálla language. This excellent gentleman had for many years to divide his attention between Clarence and the Cameroons, and was in the constant habit of crossing from the one place to the other in an open boat.+

I omitted previously to note that Mr. Beecroft's death took place at Clarence on the 10th of June, 1854.

Intelligence has just (May 7th) reached this country that a Spanish colonizing party, including among others fifty priests, has left Vera Cruz for Fernando Po. This, if correct, is greatly to be regretted, as we are aware, from past experience, that expeditions setting forth under such auspices, are much more likely to be productive of harm than of good. It is a great pity that this fine island and its interesting inhabitants cannot be placed under the guidance of persons of more enlightened tendencies and more practical views.

CHAPTER XII.

THE VOYAGE HOME.

ON Sunday, the 26th of November, while we were attending evening service, the "Bacchante," Captain Dring, arrived from England, bringing us fresh supplies of letters and of news. All our effects being shipped, we took our leave of Governor Lynslager, and our other kind and hospitable friends who had rendered our stay so comfortable and so pleasant, and sailed from Clarence Cove at half-past eleven on the night of the 28th. The "Pleiad" was to follow the next day, under the charge of the chief mate of the

Bacchante," who was put on board her for that purpose. The next day our pilot ran us aground in the mouth of the Cameroons river, so that we had to send the mails up by boat some dozen miles while we were getting afloat again. On the afternoon of the 1st of December, we got to Duke Town in Old Kalabár river, and in the evening I went on shore and called on Mr. Anderson, the resident missionary, whose acquaintance I had made when here on a former occasion. On inquiring about the place called Egbo-shári, this gentleman informed me that its I'gbo

I

name is Uményi, while the E'fik call it "Ibibio." From this place the E'fik derive their origin. The native name for Duke Town is Atákpa. The E'fik are emigrants, the land on which they are settled belonging to the Kwá people, whom they style Abákpa, and to whom they yet pay tribute. The Kwá people are quite distinct, and speak a totally different language; their country extends far inland, and they bring some very good oil to market. could not ascertain their native name, but one designation is A'kwa, and from a letter I received a few months ago from the Rev, W. Thomson, I find that from the interior of their country are brought long swords, and other articles, of very superior workmanship, and all of native iron. Some of this tribe live on the west side of the mouth of the river, and trade both at Duke Town and at Bonny. People from a tribe named Mbrúkim come to E'fik occasionally to trade. They pass through the Kwá country, and the journey from their own land, which they say is near the Arabs, occupies from two to three months. The E'fik mark was formerly the same as that used by some of the I'gbos, but more recently they have adopted another, viz., three round spots, each about the size of a pea, on their temple, opposite the eye. Móko people do not come to the E'fik, they are believed to be connected with the Baión. A case of poisoning with the ordeal bean had occurred near Duke Town on the Sunday previous to our arrival, being the first instance for a long period, as (thanks

to the exertions of the missionaries) this shocking custom has nearly fallen into entire disuse. Since my visit to Old Kalabár many serious occurrences have taken place. Old Town has very properly been punished by order of the British Consul, for a glaring disregard of treaty, by which the natives undertook to give up human sacrifices; and I understand, also, that Mr. Anderson's comfortable residence has been entirely destroyed by fire. Much as I may differ from Mr. Anderson and his friends on many minor points, and much as I may believe that their usefulness would be increased, and their great designs furthered by some modifications of their views, I cannot but entertain a sincere respect for those who truly and entirely devote themselves to the holy end of opening the eyes of these benighted creatures, who laying aside thoughts of home and of friends, banish themselves from the world, sacrificing comfort, health, often life itself, in their earnest endeavour to supplant the horrid rites of Paganism by the mild, the beautiful doctrines of enlightened Christianity.

Most of the palm-oil sold at Old Kalabár is brought from the markets in the I'gbo country, but some also comes from districts to the eastward, and, as I have mentioned, from Kwá. The trust system still prevails in Old Kalabár, and when a man dies his debts are held to expire with him, a not over-comfortable practice for the white traders. In the morning, Captain Lewis, whom I have before alluded to as being so thoroughly acquainted with the pilotage of