purpose of getting a set of sights; but no sooner had we landed, and begun to arrange our instruments, than a band of natives, variously armed with muskets, spears, and swords, came upon us in a half-threatening, half-alarmed manner. Mr. May and myself, laying down everything, advanced towards them, making signs of peace and friendship; but on seeing us come near them they retreated, still keeping their muskets pointed at us. At last we induced them to stand, and, with a little more persuasion, to shake hands, which ceremony being effected, both parties had a hearty laugh. They watched us adjusting the sextant and artificial horizon with much surprise, and were greatly amazed at hearing the ticking of a pocket chronometer. I collected some plants and insects; among the latter a showy Cicindela, with very sharp mandibles, and some homopterous speciNext morning Mr. May and I landed at the mouth of the creek, and were successful in getting a good set of sights. About mid-day, after church, some canoes were seen approaching, in one of which a drum was heard constantly beating. This we discovered to contain Tshúkuma, with a large retinue, come in grand state to pay his regular return visit. To-day he was dressed in an engineer's scarlet uniform coat, a pair of duck trousers, and a purple beaver hat; he held in his hand the sword I had presented to him, and round his neck were suspended two small medals given him by Captain Trotter. He brought for us as a present, a bullock, a goat,

mens.

and 200 yams. board nearly three hours, were on the whole very orderly. One custom peculiar to this district is, that all women who can afford it, wear ponderous ivory anklets, made from the thickest parts of large tusks. These are so very weighty as to give a strange character to the gait, and a peculiar dragging motion to the leg. They must be put on at first with great pain and difficulty, and when once adopted, are never parted with-not even at death-so that their owners are buried with them. This creates a great demand in the place for ivory, and causes extravagant sums to be demanded for these cumbrous ornaments. I had intended purchasing some, but declined doing so when I found the market value of a pair to be equal to the price of three slaves. Mr. Crowther and myself being desirous of leaving Simon Jonas here until our return, that he might better learn the temper and habits of the people, we mentioned our wish to Tshúkuma, who at once undertook to look after him. In the afternoon Mr. May and I crossed to the place where we had landed the day previously, and meeting some of the people who had then been so alarmed, went with them to their little village, which is named Odágbe, where they received us in a very friendly way, presenting us with Gura* nuts. During our walk I found several insects,

Our visitors, who remained on

* Gura or Kola nuts, the "Flora Nigritiana," p. 233. Africa, and are presented friendship.

fruit of the Cola (Sterculia) acuminata; vide These are in great demand throughout Central to strangers as a mark of esteem and of

E

myriapods, and shells, one of the latter

being a

species of Achatina, which I discovered on the leaves and stems of yams.

Abó, the Eboe or Ibu of Lander and of Allen, is the name of a town and also of a district extending along both sides of the river, from the Orú country towards Igára. It forms one of the sections of the Great I'gbo (Ibo) territory; and though by no means the largest, is, from its position along the Kwóra, one of the most important. The sovereignty, since the death of Obí, having, as I have mentioned, been partly in abeyance, many towns which were under his rule have ceased to pay tribute, and have become independent. The dialect spoken along this tract is called also Abó, and it is readily understood over the whole of I'gbo; but to this I shall afterwards refer in speaking of the peculiar customs and rites of this region.

CHAPTER IV.

IGBO AND IGÁRA.

WE left Abó on the 24th of July, encountering just after we had started a number of large canoes returning from some of the markets in the upper part of the river. Although the current ran strong, and there was plenty of water, the "Pleiad" was kept all day at very reduced speed, and consequently made very little progress. Crowded villages were numerous on both sides, indicating an extensive population. In the afternoon we grounded on a sandbank, but easily got off; after which Mr. Richards started to examine the eastern, and Mr. May and I the western passage along Bullock Island. The former was the preferable one, and by it we ascended next day, passing on the left bank a very extensive town, named Ossamaré or Oshimaré, which means "town on the great water;" most probably altered from Oshímini or Osímini, the Abó name for the Kwóra, and which signifies "great water." Among a group of islands opposite A'kra-Atáni, we first saw a small herd of hippopotami, which, however, not liking our looks, soon made themselves scarce. Heavy

showers were of frequent occurrence, and the river was slowly rising; but we were informed by the natives that it was still very low. The country now became more open, more cultivation was visible, and high land appeared to the northward along both sides of the river. The banks had been hitherto entirely alluvial, but above A'kra-Atáni, we first saw, partially embedded in clay on the eastern side, some semivolcanic blocks. On the left bank we passed Onitshá, an important market town, on the beach below which were congregated some five or six hundred people,— and shortly afterwards on the opposite shore, Asabá, the Kíri market of Allen's Charts, also a busy trading place. Along an island named by Mr. Beecroft, on account of the beautiful foliage, "Green Island,” we went by the western channel, but almost immediately afterwards the "Pleiad" struck heavily on a sandbank, and remained hard and fast until next morning, when she was, under the direction of the chief mate, again got off.

Close by Ada-mugú, the Damuggoo of Oldfield's Narrative, we saw for the first time circular huts; all those previously met with having been square or oblong, which shape prevails also throughout the the Yoruba countries, and along the main branch of the Kwóra, while to the eastward, and throughout the Haúsa country, the round form is all but universal. A little above this place the vessel was again most awkwardly run aground; this time on the weather or upper side of a sandbank, where we remained for about