396

BUCHAREST-YOUNG JEW CONVERT.

taught the sciences. He believed from Zechariah xiv 14, which he translated "Judah also shall fight against Jerusalem," that many of the Jews are yet to fall into infidelity, and fight against their brethren. We now attempted to speak still more closely to his conscience, but he refused to argue on the Messiahship of Jesus except in writing. We shewed him the end for which we had left our country and were seeking after Israel. He asked, "For what good?" We answered, "To send teachers to Israel." "The moment they begin to teach Christianity, all Jews will turn away from them.” “No (we said), some will receive the truth," and we pointed to Mr. Calman. The rabbi started and looked quite surprised, for he had not suspected that our friend was an Israelite; then added, "Ah! well, there are one or two." We then pressed upon him to compare the blind and wretched state of the dry bones of Israel described in the prophets, with what he knew to be the real condition of his people, and solemnly urged him to inquire if the blood of Jesus, which they were rejecting, might not be the very "fountain for sin," by which Israel was to be saved. He seemed surprised by our earnestness, evidently felt our sincerity, and we parted good friends.

Mr. Calman called on an interesting and very respectable young Jew, lately baptized into the Greek Church, named Alexander Rosiski, a teacher of music. Mr. C. asked him how a conscientious Jew could ever become an idolater, as the Greeks were. He said that he never worshipped their pictures, though he attended service in their church. He had felt a want in his soul, and, from what he heard of Jesus, thought that in Him he would find his want supplied. This first led him to the Greek Church; but he confessed that his ignorance was still so great, that he could not meet his brethren in argument, and therefore avoided them, When Mr. Calman explained Isaiah liii, expounding to him the work of Christ and "the way of God more perfectly," the young man was overjoyed and delighted; for the instruction thus imparted was more than all he had got among the Greeks. He had a Hebrew New Testament, but understood little of it, and owned that often he had asked himself, Why he had become a Christian? But now he saw the truth in a way that convinced and established him. He longed for an instructor, and rejoiced at

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the idea of a missionary coming to settle there, and teach his brethren. What an interesting scene does this open up, and how many "hidden ones" God may have among the scattered thousands of Israel, who, like "prisoners of hope," are waiting for some one to direct them to the stronghold!

(Sept. 13.) Having parted with our kind friends at the Consulate on the day before, we bade farewell to Bucharest at nine o'clock, A. M., and set out for Foxshany, a distance of eleven posts. The postillion drove like the wind, raising up clouds of dust which annoyed us sadly. Looking back, we observed how the city lies in a singular plain, marshy all round. A well, surmounted by a tall pole and cross beam, is the most frequent object that meets the eye. Fine brushwood and low trees line the road on both sides for many miles. When we had nearly completed our first stage, the axle-tree of the brashovanca broke, and left us helpless in a wilderness. After long delay, a wood-cutter, who happened to be by the roadside, made two young trees fall for us, and we contrived by their means to support the axle, till we drove gently to the next post, where the broken part was taken to a

Zingan, who repaired it. After a detention of three hours, we set off again, swiftly as ever, through woods and shrubs. There was something quite exciting in this mode of travelling. The two postillions, with their Wallachian vest, loose shirt sleeve, large boots, small fur-cap, and unshorn locks flowing behind, cracking their strong whips, and making the woods reverberate their cries, were most picturesque objects. The air also was delicious, and the flat plains seemed to fly past. At mounting, each postillion springs into the saddle crying Hee, when all the horses start off simultaneously. Their loud, wolf-like cry is very singular. One begins very low, gently swelling his voice, till it becomes a scream, then it dies away. Before he is done the other

398

VILLAGE OF BUSEO-ARRIVAL AT FOXSHANY.

commences, and so on. They crack the whip at every turn of the hand in setting off or coming near a post or

town.

Near the second post, first one flight of quails passed us, and soon after another. We descended a steppe into a wide platform, and twice crossed a calm flowing stream on bridges made of wood. Towards evening we began to see hills in the distance, and came on a sweet village called Buseo, with its church, from which the evening

bells were sounding deep and calm. It reminded us of Longforgan in the Carse of Gowrie, and called our flocks vividly to remembrance. During the night we forded a broad but shallow stream, and, as morning broke, reached a village called Rimnik. For a short space the country was beautiful, with wooded hills on the south-west. But soon the road again became level as formerly. As we proceeded, a wheel of our vehicle rolled off, but by means of a rope, the postillions contrived to bind it. We next crossed a stream, and ascended a steppe to the platform where stands Foxshany, which we reached about ten o'clock, A. M.

This town is situated pleasantly among trees, and adorned with glittering tin spires, which give it a fine appearance. It has a tolerable khan, dignified with the name of "Hotel de France," kept by a little Spaniard, who is also the French Consular agent, and this khan we were glad to make use of instead of sitting as hitherto to eat our meals in the carriage or on the grass. But our patience was not a little tried on finding that no post-horses could be got; Prince Milosh and the Russian Consul had so over wrought them, that they were too wearied to set out again at present. We engaged a Wallachian

JEWS-DAY OF REPENTANCE.

399

peasant, who had four horses, to carry us forward next day to Birlat, for a considerable sum. Meanwhile we visited the town, and lighted upon a large school assembled in the open air, under a verandah. At the close, we observed that all prayed and made the sign of the

cross.

We visited the Jews, of whom there were about sixty families in the town, all Polish, ruled by a rabbi, who is maintained by his brethren and carries on no trade. We were told that they have four teachers, each attended by a few children, and supported by the high remuneration which is given by parents for their education. One man gave 12 roubles, or 21. 10s. a-month, for two children; and another paid 137, for five months for his family. And yet these children learn very little. The Jew who took us to the postmaster, spoke to us on the object of our visit, and we explained to him the only way of salvation. Most of the Jews here are mechanics; very many are tailors and shoemakers. We found such a measure of sincere devotion among them, that no one would lend us his horses, or accompany us on the morrow, simply because it was the Jewish Sabbath. They have two synagogues, and one “Beth-midrash," or public room for study.

This evening was the commencement of the "Day of Repentance," (awn, yom teshuvah,) a name given to the Sabbath immediately preceding the "Day of Atonement." On the morrow the Rabbi was to preach a sermon urging them to repentance; and this is one of the two occasions during the year whereon they have a regular sermon, the only other sermon being at the Feast of the Passover. In the ten days between the New Year and the Day of Atonement, the Jews abound more in almsgiving and prayers than during all the rest of the year. Accordingly, both their synagogues were full of worshippers, loud and active in their devotions; even the little boys were rocking to and fro, and reading prayers with great earnestness, their gestures resembling those of the Jews of Saphet more nearly than any we had seen. When the service was over, a crowd came round, and asked who we were, and whence we came. We said that "we came from a far country out of love for Israel, to tell them the way of forgiveness." Not knowing what to make of us, they at last demanded "whether Messiah had come, or was to come?" We answered, "that both were true, that he had come once to

400

FOXSHANY TO BIRLAT-RIVER SERET.

die, and was to come a second time in glory." Many turned away on hearing this, and would listen no

more.

Foxshany being the frontier town of Wallachia and Moldavia, we were harassed a good deal in getting our passports rightly signed, having to go first to the Governor of the town, then to the Wallachian police, next to the Moldavian police, and lastly to the British Vice-Consul. A narrow stream running through the town divides the two provinces. At the Wallachian office a man was in attendance with the knout in his hand, a large thick whip, often applied without mercy to those who are in the least degree disrespectful or unruly.

(Sept. 14.) We bade adieu to the obliging little Spaniard, the keeper of the Hotel de France, and started at three o'clock in the morning. On reaching the frontier gate, however, the soldier on guard could himself neither read nor write; and, the examiner of passports being asleep, we were forced to wait till he chose to rise, sighing in vain for the liberty of our native land. It was nearly sunrise before we were fairly clear. We were now riding briskly, in a misty cool morning, on our way to the river Seret, which we soon crossed by a bridge of boats, at a deep and rapid part where lives have frequently been lost. Nearly forty yoke of oxen, dragging heavy laden wagons to the market, were waiting on the other side, and crossing one by one, after paying toll. We then ascended a steppe into a fine plain of vast extent. Soon the country became more undulating and better wooded. Several pleasant villages appeared, with scattered white cottages. The name of one of these was Taoutchy. Most of the houses in the villages we came to are built, not continuously, but at small intervals, with trees round each, giving them a picturesque and cleanly appearance. The churches are frequently white-washed and surmounted with glittering spires. The tall poles at the well, and the large haystacks affording provision for their long winter, are characteristic objects; while the large ugly swine, with immense bristles on the ridge of the back, and the handsome shaggy dogs that rush out as you approach, enliven the scene to a passing visitor.

About nine o'clock we stopped and set the horses free to feed and rest, while we got a supply of milk at a cottage, and sat down upon the grass to breakfast, adjourning afterwards to the wooded banks of a stream that