ᏟᎻᎪᏢᎢᎬᏂ IX.

PRUSSIA AND HAMBURGH.

"From the daughter of Zion all her beauty is departed."-Lam. i. 6.

(OCT. 15.) With unfeigned regret we parted from Mr. Hiscock and his family, for we had taken sweet counsel together with these "hidden ones." None but those who have experienced the same can imagine the feelings with which true Christians meet and part in such a land. We had received from the Austrian police the sealed parcel containing our books, of which we had been deprived at Brody; and now, disposing of our sleeping mats-hitherto indispensable articles-we prepared to enter the bounds of more civilized Prussia. At nine A.M. we set out in the Prussian Schnell-post, a most comfortable vehicle, which was to carry us to Breslau, a distance of 185 miles, for a sum equal in our money to 19s. each. Our road lay nearly north, through the fine strath in which Cracow lies, ornamented with sheets of water and forests of pine, the Carpathian range bounding the view on our left. The whole territory of Cracow, though very small, is beautiful, hill and dale alternating. A convent, embosomed in wood, several picturesque churches, and an old castle crowning an eminence, were the principal objects, till we passed within sight of Zarnow, where are 1200 Jews; and crossing the Vistula, entered the Prussian province of Silesia. We met with little trouble at the custom-house, and none of that inquisitorial suspicion that characterizes the authorities of Austria. Indeed, we felt as if we breathed a freer air as soon as we knew we were beyond the dominions of the Man of Sin. Crosses and images, however, on the roadside met our view,—the undisturbed relics of Popery, which still prevails in these districts. In the first small

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village we came to, called Berun, all built of wood, with a graceful spire, there was a shameful image of the Virgin. In the clear twilight, we saw the spires of Nicolai, and late at night rested for half an hour at Gleiwitz, a full October moon lighting up the old market-place. Here we were accosted by one of our fellow-travellers, a Jew, and relative of our friend Mr. Cerf, lately Jewish missionary in Edinburgh and Glasgow. He was curious to hear of our wanderings among his brethren, and very kind. We passed on over an excellent road, macadamized like the roads of our own country; and awoke about five in the morning, while entering Oppeln, a large pleasant town, with a council house and other public buildings,-a good specimen of the general cleanness and neatness of the Prussian towns. The inns afford every comfort to the traveller, and the boys, with satchel on back, hastening to school, showed us that we were in Protestant Prussia. Here we were made aware of a regulation of the Schnell-post worth recording. If one wagon be full, the travellers are forwarded in a second; if that be filled, a third is provided, so that no traveller can be disappointed of a place.

We left Oppeln while the new-risen sun was glancing sweetly along the river Oder, upon which it lies, surrounded with pleasant walks. At a church-yard in the suburbs, the funeral service was performing over some one at this early hour. Men, women, and children, a decent company, all kneeled round the grave. It was a cheerful resting-place for the dead, the graves being laid out in the form of small gardens, and a beautiful bloom of flowers covering most of them. The drive to Breslau has little to interest a traveller. The road is uniformly lined with trees (often fine poplars) at regular distances; the fields are cultivated with great care and beauty, by a peasantry who seem industrious and happy; and on the horizon, we generally caught a glimpse of a thriving village with its spire, and tall poplars vying with the spire. We frequently passed on the road the travelling journeymen, so common in Germany, all covered with dust. They go from town to town to gain experience in their trade. Occasionally, too, we met a travelling Jew. After taking our midday meal at Brieg, a town with an old church, and fountain in the marketplace, in two hours more, we passed through Ohlau, with its fields of tobacco, and about five o'clock evening entered Breslau. Occasionally some of our companions

BRESLAU-UNIVERSITY.

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during this journey were Jews. But we could hardly recognise them except by their features. The beard, the dress, the language, the manners, in a word, all that gives them nationality is gone, and they seem desirous to imitate the Christian population in every thing. At one place, two Jewesses came into the post-wagon. Mr. Ca.man recognised them at once as belonging to his nation, though their gay dress and manners indicated nothing different from those around them. He told them of the Holy Land, but could not get them interested; indeed, they were quite unwilling to be recognised as belonging to Israel.

(Oct. 17.) Early in the morning, a Roman Catholic monk came to our room in the inn, asking charity for the hospital. We did not refuse him, although we saw that the design of the papists in being thus forward in supporting such institutions is to gain public confidence and credit for humanity. Soon after another came asking us to give a little for the Sisters of Charity, telling us their good deeds to the sick and poor. But this we positively refused to do, telling the monk that we were Protestants, and that we could not countenance Popery in any way, however indirect.

Breslau is a fine old town, surrounded by a trench, and containing 90,000 inhabitants. The banks of the river Oder, on which it stands, have pleasant walks, shaded with trees, and there are many trees gracefully planted throughout the town. The oldest houses are built of wood, and are strange, crazy-looking structures. There is one fine old square used as a market-place, where the houses have the gable end toward the street, some forming a sharp angle, others of a fanciful shape. In the centre is a bronze statue of Neptune, standing on dolphins, with a fine jet d'eau bursting forth from his trident. At one place, there is a fine statue of Blucher, with one hand grasping the sword, and the other lifted up, as he addresses his army in these words inscribed below, "Mit Gott für König und Vaterland,” “With God's help for King and Fatherland." There are eleven Protestant, and thirteen Roman Catholic churches, several of the latter being ancient and spacious.

We visited the University, a large antique building, on one side looking out upon the river. The session was not begun, so that we saw only the class-rooms, venerable and spacious, like those of our own Universities. We

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BRESLAU-SCHOOLS-DR. NEUMANN.

then visited one of the Gymnasia or Prussian schools, sc justly celebrated over the world. There were 100 child ren present in the same room, arranged in three classes -the first containing children from four to six years of age, the second from six to ten, and the third from ten to fifteen. They began by singing a hymn, "Gott ist gut," the girls singing the air, the boys the tenor, while the master accompanied them on the violin. All sang from music books, and the effect was pleasing and delightful. The teacher offered up a short prayer, after which every scholar produced and showed his pencil, paper-book, &c., and sat down to draw, the girls copying flowers and patterns, the boys plans of architecture, &c. This was the employment of that hour; and all the scholars are required to provide themselves with pencil, compasses, and rule, which are kept in a case and carried along with them. They learn Luther's "Kleiner Catechismus or "Shorter Catechism," and read the New Testament. The passages of Scripture to be committed to memory are written upon a black board, and also the lessons for next day. They seemed fine quiet children,. very tidy, and several young Israelites were among them. All pay about 8d. per month. On our retiring, they rose and whispered softly with one voice "Adieu."

We now found our way to the house of Dr. Neumann, a converted Jew, of established Christian character, and one of the five professors in the University of Breslau, who are of the seed of Abraham according to the flesh. He and his lady and son received us very kindly. His eldest son is minister of some Protestant Germans, who settled at Rio Janeiro in Brazil, and sent for him to come and labour among them. His second son is a doctor of medicine, a fine young man, who speaks English well.

Of the 90,000 inhabitants of Breslau, there may be 30,000 Roman Catholics, and 54,000 Lutherans. Rationalism cannot be said to be on the wane in this quarter, for many of the ministers and professors hold these views, and few indeed stand up to oppose its progress. The recent death of Olshausen was a severe loss to those who defend the truth. There are probably 6000 Jews, although some make their number 2500 families, and they have twelve synagogues. During this year nine Jews had been baptized, but in other years many more. In 1836 there were twenty-six baptisms. The great

majority of the Jews here are casting off the Talmud, and the Bible along with it. They are very careless of their religious observances, the young Jews never observing their own Sabbath, but keeping their shops open, neglecting even the morning and evening prayers, which they leave to be performed by the old men. Many, it is said, are baptized without making it publicly known. In the rest of Silesia there are about 10,000 Jews of a similar character, among whom a missionary who could speak German might labour with the full approbation of Government, and with good prospects of success.

In the evening we resolved to visit the Jewish quarter, and on our way met an interesting old Jew from Kempfen, who took us to their finest synagogue, a large building with windows of stained glass. There were not more than a dozen Jews met for evening prayer, and one of them was a soldier. Yet few as they were, they seemed to be very devotional. In the shop of a Jewish bookseller, we asked a young Jewess if she liked to read "nein," "No." We purthe Bible; she replied at once, chased here some copies of a prayer-book for travellers, ` 1 nbon, "Prayers for those that journey." On our way to our inn, we noticed many of the signboards in the Hebrew character.

(Oct. 18.) We started at nine a. m. in the Eilwaagen for Posen, twenty-one German or one hundred and five English miles due north from Breslau, through a country of the most uninteresting sameness of character, and over roads of loose sand the greater part of the way. About eight miles from Breslau, in another direction, the 400 Tyrolese who lately left their native valleys, because of their attachment to the Protestant faith, are settled in the Coppal mountains. At three we entered the village of Prausnitz, while the bells were tolling the requiem of some deceased citizen. In the Prussian villages there is always a large square, in which the houses have their gable end toward the street, and the broad cross-beams are visible, giving the houses a fantastic appearance. Many doors had the mezuza on the outside, and a Hebrew signboard appeared here and there. Out of a population of 2000, there are 100 Jews.

The country is well cultivated, but not interesting. Traenberg is another clean village, with its square, old Popish church, and image at the gate. Ten Jewish families live here, and we spoke to some of their children