tartan was introduced by St. Margaret. The writer he quotes is only speaking of clothes of several colours, red cloth, blue cloth, green cloth, &c.; while the Scots, probably, before followed the old Norwegian custom of wearing only black. From these remarks it may be evinced, that no antiquary can object to the propriety of changing the philibeg to pantaloons, a change which, if universally introduced into Highland regiments and into the Highlands, would be a laudable improvement. From the same remarks it is also clear, that nothing can be more absurd than the costume adopted by many of our late painters, stage-players, &c., who have represented the tartan as the Scotish dress in all ages. It is proper to inform all such persons, that a Highlander is as different from a Lowlander as a Welshman from an Englishman. The rebellions of 1715 and 1745 were those of Highlanders only. The Highlands comprise Sutherland, Caithness, Ross, the west part of Inverness and Perthshire, and all Argyleshire.* ANCIENT CUSTOM OF SALUTATION. THE practice of greeting females by salutation was common in England in the middle ages. According to Chalondylus, "whenever an invited guest entered the house of his friend, he invariably saluted his wife and daughters, as a common act of courtesy." The custom is frequently alluded to by Chaucer, who wrote in the same age, and in the picture of the frere in the Sompnour's Tale, he very archly touches on the zeal and activity with which the holy father performed this act of gallantry. As soon as the mistress of the house enters the room, where he is engaged in "groping tenderly" her husband's conscience, "he riseth up full curtishly And hir embraceth in his armes narrow And kisseth her sweet, and chirketh as a sparrow The custom also formed a part of the ceremony of drinking healths, at least so says Robert de Brunne: "That sais wasseille drinkis of the cup, Kiss and his felaw he gives it up." In the sixteenth century, Erasmus describes, in glowing language, the extreme liberality with which our fair country-women granted these favours." THE first stone of this church was laid by the Right Honourable the Earl of Dartmouth, on the 25th day of September, in the year of our Lord, 1821: and the second year of the reign of his Majesty, King George the Fourth. Length of the church, one hundred and thirty feet; breadth, fifty-six feet; height of the tower, one hundred and fourteen feet. Francis Goodwin, architect, London. John Hedge, builder, Little Compton Street, Soho, London. But after the Reformation severer manners prevailed; and by the rigid puritans the practice seems to have been discountenanced. Among others was John Bunyan, who gives us an amusing account of his scruples on the subject, in his "Grace Abounding." "The common salutation of women," he says, "I abhor: it * Vide Pinkerton's "Correspondence," Vol. i. pp. 405–410. is odious to me in whomsoever I see it.-When I have seen good men salute those women that they have visited, or that have visited them, I have made my objections against it; and when they have answered that it was but a piece of civility, I have told them that it was not a comely sight. Some indeed have urged the holy kiss; but then I have asked them why they made balks? why they did salute the most handsome, and let the ill favoured go?" Such, however, were only the scruples of a few conscientious persons: for the custom prevailed generally through the reigns of James and Charles. In Lupton's London and the Country Carbonaded, 1632, a pretty hostess, or a pretty maid, or daughter, to salute the guests, is represented as an established attraction of a country inn. The practice appears to have gone * Epist, Fausto Andrelino, out about the time of the Restoration. According to Peter Heylin it had for some time before been unfashionable in France, and its abandonment in England probably formed a part of that French code of politeness, which Charles introduced on his return. The last traces of its existence are perhaps in one or two letters, from country gentlemen, in the Spectator, one of which occurs in No. 240. The writer relates of himself that he had always been in the habit, even in great assemblies, of saluting all the ladies round; but a town bred gentleman had lately come into the neighbourhood, and introduced his "fine reserved airs." "Whenever," says the writer, "he came into a room, he made a profound bow, and fell back, then recovered with a soft air, and made a bow to the next, and so on. This is taken for the present fashion; and there is no young gen tlewoman within several miles of this place who has been kissed ever since his first appearance among us." B. 192 "FOR long," eloquently observes Mr. James, "the Christian religion had struggled alone, a great but shaded light, through the storms of dark and barbarous ages. Till Chivalry arose there was nothing to uphold it; but from that moment, with a champion in the field to lead forth the knowledge that had been imprisoned in the cloister, the influence of religion began to increase, the influence of the divine truth itself gradually wrought upon the hearts of men, purifying, calming, refining, till the world grew wise enough to separate the perfection of the gospel from the weakness of its teachers, and to reject the errors, while they restrained the power of the church of Rome. that man himself ever devised. In its youth and in its simplicity it appeared grand and beautiful, but from its own intrinsic excellence and from its contrast with the things around. In its after years it acquired pomp and luxury; and to pomp and luxury naturally succeeded decay and death; but still the legacy that it left behind to posterity was a treasure of noble feelings and generous principles. “There cannot be a doubt that chivalry, more than any other institution (except religion) aided to work out the civilization of Europe. It first taught devotion and reverence to those weak, fair beings, who but in their beauty and gentleness have no defence. It first raised love above the passions of the brute, and by dignifying woman, made woman worthy of love. It gave purity to enthusiasm, crushed barbarous selfishness, taught the heart to expand like a flower to the sunshine, beautified glory with generosity, and smoothed even the rugged brow of war.”* Such was CHIVALRY! It arose, like Christianity, from very small beginnings, and was fostered by the approving smiles of heaven and the church. It flourished till its work was complete; until might no longer usurped the place of right; until it had polished the manners of society, and made a high way in the desert of savage hearts for that religion, of which it was the faithful handmaid. Chivalry flings a romantic colouring over bygone time. When we look back through the cloudy vista of past years, and see the lordly prelates and priests and abbots glide by with all the pomp and circumstance of the papacy, we gaze upon the solemn vision with awe and reverence, and no more; but when we fancy the gallant train of mail-clad knights pouring from the baronial castle, "to succour the helpless and oppressed, and never to turn back from an enemy," and the bright and beautiful maidens, the idols of their idolatry, whom they loved and honoured next present occasion take a short survey of the education and initiation of an ancient Knight. The young aspirant for martial fame remained till he was five years of age (some say seven) under the care of his mother or female relatives, who taught him the rudiments of christian learning and holy chivalry. He was then removed from his home to the Castle of some illustrious chieftain, who, unbiassed by parental tenderness, initiated the embryo warrior into the trials and hardships of his intended profession. There for seven years longer he was distinguished by the name of page or valet; he served his lovely mistress at her toilet, slept in her bed-chamber, and attended her at the just and tourney; he poured out the wine for his lord at the banquet, and the rest of his time was fully employed in learning all sorts of gymnastic exercises, the principal blasts of venerie to be sounded when the hounds were uncoupled, when the prey was discovered, when it was brought to bay, and when it fell; to flay and disembowel the prostrate animal, place it on the table, and carve the dishes. This is "the noblest way," observes the poet, "Of breeding up our youth in letters, arms, When the boy attained fourteen, he was admitted to the degree of squire, when he plunged at once into all the perils of the tented field; thither he followed his and while the knights fought hand to hand in deadly leader, buckled on his armour, and led his war-horse, strife with other knights, their equals, his duty was to cover his master, should he fall, and drag him out of the melée, and to furnish him with fresh horses and when the latter were broken or wrenched weapons, to their Redeemer, and for whom they were always from his grasp, and the former perished under him; willing to shed their life blood; when we follow these but he might not draw the sword (which he exchanged swordsmen to the camp, and see them raging like lions in the battle-field, yet spåring and assisting for the short dagger with religious ceremony on his their fallen adversaries,-to the court, and behold entering into the second grade of chivalry) against them the great examples of all that dignifies huma- the knightly adversaries of his gallant lord. At other times he engaged in martial exercises: nity, we feel constrained to love them like our own "he was brethren, and to regard them as instruments pecu-taught," says the biographer of Bouçicaut, when a liarly chosen to fructify and advance the amelioration of our species. As yet we have only viewed these champions en masse, let us single out one of them, and on the James's "History of Chivalry," p. 14. * One was, to ride in full career against a wooden figure holding a buckler, called a quintaine. This quintaine turned on an axis; and as there was a wooden sword in the other hand of the supposed opponent, the young cavalier, if he did not manage the horse and weapon with address, received a blow when the shock of his charge made the quintaine spring round. all that are desolate and oppressed;" he was now to begin his holy career, and the ceremonies of his initiation were of a grade and impressiveness com squire, tó spring upon a horse while armed at all points; to exercise himself in running; to strike for a length of time with the axe or club; to dance and throw somersets, entirely armed, excepting the hel-mensurate with the dignity of his profession. On the met; to mount on horseback behind one of his comrades, by barely laying his hand on his sleeve; to raise himself betwixt two partition walls to any height, by placing his back against the one and his knees and hands against the other; to mount a ladder placed against a tower, upon the reverse or untouching the rounds with his feet; to throw the javelin, and to pitch the bar."* Enormous must have been the exertions of these youthful swordsmen, if we judge of the effects produced, and if we may credit the relations of the old chroniclers and romancers, when they tell us, that, in after life, "they fought from matins until even-song cased in steel, yet without tiring, till the sand was dyed with their hot gore, and the spectators wept with very pity." night preceding the day of his receiving the accolade the candidate watched his arms in a church or chapel, and prepared for the honour about to be conferred on him with vigil, fast, and prayer. Solemnly divested of the brown frock which he had previously worn, and having bathed, he put on the more costly dress appropriate to knighthood; he was solemnly invested with the knightly armour, and reminded of the allegorical and mystical explanation of each article of his dress. The novice being apparelled in the armour of knighthood, but bare-headed, and without either sword or spurs, a rich mantle was thrown upon him, and he was conducted in solemn procession, attended "by all the knights and nobles at that time in the city, where the solemnity was to be performed, with the Chaucer has left us a very beautiful portrait of the bishops and clergy, each covered with the appropriate squire of his time: "With him ther was his sone a yonge sQUIER A lover and a lusty bacheler, With lockes crull [curled] as they were laide in presse, Of his stature he was of even lengthe, And wonderly deliver [nimble], and grete of strengthe; And he had be [been] sometime in chevachie [in military ex peditions] In Flaundres, in Artois, and Picardie, And borne him wel, as of so litel space, In hope to stonden in his ladies grace. Embrouded [embroidered] was he, as it were a mede Singing he was or floyting [playing on the flute] all the day; At twenty-one, and in particular cases a year earlier, * Vie de Bouçicaut, Coll. Peletot et Momerque. + "Canterbury Tales," edited by T. Tyrwhitt, Esq. vol. i. p. 166. vestments of his order; the knight in his coat-ofarms, and the bishop in his stole," to the principal church in the place; high mass was then sung, and the acolyte kneeling on the altar steps, took the oath to submit to the laws of chivalry, after which his godsire advancing, dubbed the warrior KNIGHT. Then the maidens present belted on the sword and spurs of their new votary, amid the joyous acclamations of the spectators, and the din of martial minstrelsy. The novice next received the accolade, generally from the sword of the Sovereign, who rising from his throne, struck him thrice upon the shoulder with his naked sword, and said, " In the name of God, St. Michael, and St. George, I make thee knight; be loyal, bold, and true." Sometimes the churchman of the highest dignity who was present belted on the champion's sword, which had been previously blessed and deposited on the high altar, and the ladies only his spurs. Such was the general outline of the ceremonies of the initiation. When knighthood became distinguished by its several orders, as the Bath, the Garter, &c. these ceremonies were varied considerably. The rituals, belonging to the order of the Bath, are extremely curious, and are probably more ancient than others with which we are acquainted. any Each of the new knights was "attended by two esquires of honour, gentlemen of blood, and bearing coat-arms, who were worshipfully received at the door of that chamber by the king of arms, and the * James's History of Chivalry, p. 22. gentleman usher of the order: and the person thus | the knights and esquires for their kind services, and they all departed, leaving only the elected, one of the prebendaries of the church of Westminster, the chandler, and the verger of the church. There he performed his vigils during the whole night, in prayers to God, with a taper burning before him. And when the day broke, and the elected had heard mattins, the esquires governors reconducted him to the prince's chamber, and laid him in bed, and cast over him a coverlet of gold, lined with carde. And when the proper time came, these esquires acquainted the great master that the elected was ready to rise, who commanded the experienced knights as before to proceed to the prince's chamber; and the elected having been roused by the music, and the esquires having provided every thing in readiness, the experienced knights at their entry wished the elected a good morning, acquainting him that it was time to rise; whereupon, the esquires taking him by the arm, the oldest of the knights gave him his shirt, the next his breeches, the third his doublet, the fourth a surcoat of red tartarin, lined and edged with white sarcenet, two others took him out of bed, two others drew on his boots, in token of the beginning of his warfare, another girded him with his white unorna elected entered into that chamber with the esquires, who, being experienced in matters of chivalry, instructed him in the nature, dignity, and duties of this military order, and took diligent care that all the ceremonies thereof (which had their allegorical significations) should be powerfully recommended and punctually observed; and such esquires, who from this service were usually called esquires governors, did not permit the elected to be seen abroad during the evening of his first entry, but sent for the proper barber to make ready a bathing vessel, handsomely lined on the inside and outside with linen, having cross hoops over it, covered with tapestry, for defence against the cold air of the night, and a blanket was spread on the floor, by the side of the bathing vessel. Then the beard of the elected being shaven, and his hair cut, the esquires acquainted the sovereign, or great master, that, it being even-song, the elected was prepared for the bath. Whereupon some of the most sage and experienced knights went to council and direct the elect in the order and feats of chivalry; which knights, being preceded by several esquires of the sovereign's household, making all the usual signs of rejoicing, and having minstrels playing on several instruments before them, forthwith re-mented girdle, another put on his coif or bonnet; paired to the door of the prince's chamber, while the esquires governors, upon hearing the music, undressed the elected, and put him into the bath; and the music ceasing, these grave knights, entering the chamber without any noise, severally, one after the other kneeling near the bathing vessel, with a soft voice, instructed the elected in the nature and course of the bath, and put him in mind, that for ever after he ought to keep his body and mind pure and undefiled. And thereupon the knights each of them cast some of the water of the bath upon the shoulders of the elected, and retired, while the esquires go- WALPOLE, speaking of this work, in a letter to Pinvernors took the elected out of the bath, and con-kerton, dated Jan. 25th, 1795, says :-" Harding ducted him to his pallet bed, which was plain, and without curtains. And as soon as his body was dry, they clothed him very warm in a robe of russet, having long sleeves reaching down to the ground, and tied about the middle with a cordon of ash-colored and russet silk, with a russet hood, like to a hermit, having a white napkin hanging to the cordon or girdle; and, the barber having removed the bathing vessel, the experienced knights again entered, and from thence conducted the elected to the chapel of King Henry VII. And they being there entered, preceded by all the esquires making rejoicings, and the minstrels playing before them, the elected thanked and lastly, another flung on him the costly mantle of his order."-The above account is abridged from the fourth statute of the "Order of the Bath," and the ceremonies recorded are said to be "precisely those which have been observed in former centuries." In modern times these rites are never performed, although they are enjoined by the laws and ordinances. GRAMMONT'S MEMOIRS. J. F. R. copies likeness very faithfully in general; but then the engravers, who work from his drawings, never see the originals, and preserve no resemblance at all; as was the case with the last edition and translation of Grammont, in which, besides false portraits, as Marshal Turrenne, with a nose the reverse of his; and a smug Cardinal Richelieu, like a young abbé ; and the Duchess of Cleveland, called by a wrong name; there is a print, from my Mrs. Middleton, so unlike, that I pinned up the print over against the other, and nobody would have guessed that one was taken from the other."-The edition of Grammont alluded to was that published in 1794, in quarto, |
