order. Still further to the north-east stands a hill (No. 1.) covered with tombs, and hollowed out from the side of it is a beautiful Greek theatre (No. 2.); the seats still remain, and such a mass of the materials, that the whole might probably be put together again. A splendid frieze of lions, in every attitude, with trees in the background, cut in bold basso-rilievo, appears to have surrounded the building. The proscenium is similar in form to others that I have seen, and probably contained equestrian statues like those found at Herculaneum, as the pedestals are still remaining; the form was this:

2. The doors in the proscenium.

1. The pedestals. 3. A large opening in the middle of the proscenium, commanding a splendid view from the theatre along the stadium (No. 3. in the former plan) to the city, with its Acropolis and many temples.

On either side of the stadium are the ranges of seats for the spectators, rising one above the other (No. 4.), forming an avenue for the view from the theatre. These seats are raised upon fine stone arches, which served as the entrances to the stadium.

There are still standing three bridges across the river (No. 8.) which meandered through the city (No. 9.), its banks having been lined with finely ornamented masonry. The subjects of the ornaments in the architecture of the city, which are abundant, are taken from sports and games. Panthers, lions, dogs, eagles, and Bacchanalian figures are carved in the friezes. Among these are many fronts of tombs sculptured as doors, with panels and devices, having inscriptions.

Another inscription was cut on the front of a pedestal, which now stands near a small building serving as the mosque for the present inhabitants of the village. Upon the top of this pedestal the muezzin ascends to cry the hour of prayer, as from the minaret.

I saw no trace of the tombs or architecture of the Christian age, nor of any walls or fortifications. walls or fortifications. From the character of the architecture I should judge that this had been a small town devoted to amusement; I could not hear of any mineral or peculiar waters, or I might have fancied it to have been a Cheltenham of the ancients. I have seen no place so little plundered or defaced by the people of after ages, and much information might be gained here to interest. the antiquarian.

At one o'clock we set out to return; and being our own

guides, and in a country without road and with so few marked features, it was no easy matter to find the way. The tracks through the woods are innumerable, for the road is changed at each season as the swamps become passable; many of them are only the tracks of the woodcutters. Steering by compass however we took the right course, but the delay in climbing the hills in this steeple-chase mode of travelling caused us to be benighted.

Were I disposed to dwell on personal annoyances, I might here relate our ride of twenty-five miles against a strong wind from the north-east, and getting thoroughly wet through with cold rain, which was succeeded by a heavy fall of snow: darkness came on, and we were compelled for the last ten miles to trust ourselves entirely to the guidance of our horses, being unable to distinguish the stones from the streams, many of which wound down the steep craggy rocks over which we were riding. In this manner we had to cross and re-cross thickets and swamps. But it was in our favour that our horses were approaching home; and at last we found to our great joy, that an object which in the darkness we had fancied to be a curiously shaped rock, was the wall of the citadel of Kootáya. As it was ten o'clock when I arrived, wet through and miserably cold, I asked to be allowed to undress and have tea by myself, instead of in the presence of eight or nine friends of my host; my request was granted, but one or two of the sons were directed to remain with me, that I might not be lonely. My servant told me afterwards that the good gentleman was much hurt at my request, attributing it to my dislike of the society around him.

There is little to be said of Kootaya. Through its streets run several rivulets, which carry away the remains of animals, often a nuisance in Turkish towns: the streets are wide, and the houses better built than usual.

Today I borrowed the only thermometer in the town (the

one I have with me not being of sufficiently extensive scale) for the purpose of ascertaining the elevation of this country. I find it to be great, as I judged from the vegetation and climate it would be. The plain of Kootaya is about six thousand feet above the sea, and the hills we passed over on our way to Ezani are perhaps two thousand feet higher.

At Kootaya I have been residing in the house of a private gentleman, and have witnessed the manners of his family. On my firman being presented to the Pasha, he sent me to this house, the residence of the principal merchant, an Armenian. He was from home at the time, but I was put in possession of the place of honour, or raised floor in the principal room, which was painted like the coat of a harlequin, and surrounded with cushions, the floor being entirely covered with Turkey carpets and Persian rugs, which gave the rooms an appearance both of comfort and wealth. This house may be considered a specimen of the house of a Turk equally as of a Greek, both being of the same construction. The family were numerous; three of the children of my host immediately surrounded me, one of them a little girl about six years old, very pretty and evidently the pet of the family: two sons afterwards appeared, who were men thirty years of age. The little girl told me many things, which as she did not understand English any more than I Turkish, it was in vain for me to attempt to answer otherwise than by signs; whereupon she very gravely left me, and going up to my servant inquired if “ Franky” had a tongue, for he had never spoke to her, although she had told him everything. Refreshments were brought in, and shortly after arrived the master of the house, a fine handsome man, who saluted me with great respect, and expressed his regret that I had dined before he came home, but arranged that I should take my meal with him the next day. In the evening he had many visitors, and sent for a Neapo

litan quack doctor in compliment to me, saying that he spoke European languages. The doctor and the other guests sat until twelve o'clock: how often I wished them away, that I might go to bed! I did not know a word that was said, but had to receive the compliments and farewells of each guest, the purpose of whose visit was evidently to see the European. My servant, who is at his request called in the firman my dragoman, made himself very entertaining, and was in consequence a welcome guest; for the people are delighted to be talked to, and have not the slightest idea of the luxury of being alone. They are extremely sociable, and never read or write, which renders them very dependent upon each other for amusement. I longed to be alone, even in the den-like rooms of a khan, that I might write, draw, and go to bed, but this was impossible whilst every eye was watching, although with the most refined politeness, my slightest movement. If I was by chance left alone for five minutes, an apology was made, or the children sent in that I might not feel lonely. At breakfast two of the sons watched every mouthful, until I literally could hardly swallow my food; and all this attention proceeded from politeness. I dislike this system of being lodged with a private family under the authority of a firman; and, having once availed myself of it, shall return to my former custom of occupying empty houses or khans, rather than be the forced and probably unwelcome guest of a stranger, as I am here.

During my toilet I saw that the sons were watching every act and anticipated every wish, except their absence. I quite dreaded the tête-à-tête dinner with the head of the house, neither of us understanding a single word of each other's language. When the time arrived, the father entered with his pet child, who was sent to kiss my hand, or put it to her lips and forehead; the father, respectfully saluting me, took his seat on the opposite side of the tray, which was placed on a little stool about six inches high. We each