never use chairs or tables, but are always reclining on couches, supported on every side by cushions. The internal construction of their houses is uniformly bad. The passages are long and narrow, and the staircases so steep that it is frequently difficult to mount them. At the Dola's, numerous doors are well secured on the landing places, to prevent any sudden hostile attack. Little lime is used in any of their buildings, a constant care is therefore necessary to prevent the introduction of moisture; but, with caution, they last for many years. If, however, a house is neglected, it speedily becomes a heap of rubbish; the walls returning to their original state of mud, from which they had been formed into bricks by the heat of the sun alone. The wooden materials very soon vanish in a country where firing is extremely scarce, so that even the ruins of cities, which were celebrated for their magnificence in former times, may now be sought for in vain. The best houses are all facing the sea, and chiefly to the north of the sea gate. The British factory is a large and lofty building, but has most of the inconveniences of an Arab house. It is, however, far superior to the French or Danish factories, which are rapidly falling to decay. The lower order of Arabs-live in huts composed of wicker-work, covered on the inside with mats, and sometimes on the outside with a little clay. The roofs are uniformly thatched. A small yard is fenced off in front of each house; but this is too small to admit a circulation of air. It is singular that these habitations should be crowded close together, while a large part of the space within the walls is left unoccupied.

batteries along shore are unable to bear the shock of firing the cannon that are upon them. Two forts are erected, for the protection of the harbour, on two points of land which project considerably into the sea, at about a mile and a half from each other.An English man of war would level either to the ground with a single broadside. There are two other batteries within the town, but they are in a still more defenceless state. The guns on all these places are useless, except to return a salute. The Arabs, when they purchased them from infidels, considered them as Sheitan, or belonging to the devil, and therefore immediately set to work to make them holy, which to accomplish, their ignorance has led them to an extraordinary idea. They enlarge the touchhole, till nearly the whole of the gunpowder explodes by it, which is also the way by which it frequently enters. As, however, they never had occasion to use these guns hostilely, they are not aware of the mischief they have done. The walls on the land side are a sufficient defence against the Wahabee, who always storm a town by means of their cavalry, and the numerous round towers have a very imposing effect on people who are totally ignorant of the use of artillery. Although under constant alarm from the Wahabee, they have neglected to repair the fortifications, and seem to consider the many small doors, nearly on the level of the ground, as affording no facility of entrance to an enemy. Near the sea gate a part of the wall has actually fallen down, and has been repaired with a few boards and matting. The town runs, for about half a mile, in a nearly straight line facing the sea, but afterwards the walls take a circular direction inland. The space thus included is in part not built upon, and, I should suppose, does not contain a population of above five thousand souls.

The garrison, in general, consists of about eighty horse, and two hun

dred

dred match-lock men, who receive a regular pay of two dollars and a half per month, for which they provide their own arms, and powder and ball for exercise; but when they quit Mocha, they are supplied with every thing, and have four dollars in advance. There is not a vestige of discipline among them, but they are by no means bad marksmen, though they are a long time in taking aim. When on guard at the different gates, they recline on couches, with their match-locks lying neglected by their sides; while the right hand is employed either in sustaining the pipe or a cup of coffee. Their match-locks are good, and richly ornamented with silver. This, and their crooked dagger, or jambea, are their chief pride; and it requires the most rigid economy for several years, to enable a young Arab to provide himself with them. The troops attend the Dola every Friday to the great mosque, and afterwards exercise in the front of his house. I was present several times to see the infantry fire three vollies, which they do with ball cartridge, or at least ought to do, though I suspect economy induces them frequently to leave out the ball. Before they fire, they throw themselves into loose disorder; a plan which the Dola strongly justified to Mr Pringle, when he waited on him to announce the late glorious victories of the British in the East. On that occasion he fairly told him, that he was very much surprised our soldiers ever gained a victory disciplined as they were.“Why,” said he," your men are all drawn up in a row, so that any man may be distinguished by a person who has an enmity to him, and be shot immediately whereas my men, by standing in disorder, and continually changing place, cannot be known." The ball that they use is small and ill formed, so that, at the respectful distance they keep from each other, à wound is seldom received. As the chief mussulmaun inhabitants attend

the Dola, on the Friday, as well as the soldiers, the procession is handsome, several gay streamers being carried by the horsemen, and before the Dola the green and red flags of the Imaum; on the former of which is figured, in white, the double bladed sword of Mahommed, which has a much greater resemblance to the figure of an European, with his head, feet, and hands, cut off. The Arab dress looks well on horseback, and is composed of the richest satins and kincaubs of India. The flowing scarf, and the turban with the ends hanging low on the back, adds greatly to the elegance of the dress.

The Arabs, when very young, have an expressive, but mild countenance, and a pleasing eye. As they become men, the change is very disadvantageous: their figures are not good, and the beard is generally scanty; but, in advanced age, their appearance is truly venerable. The fine dark eye is then admirably contrasted by the long white beard, and the loose drapery prevents the meagre figure from being observed. The few women, who were visible, had rather pretty countenances, but in contrast to the males, their legs were of an astonishing thickness. An exchange, in this respect, would be greatly to the advantage of both parties.

The government of Mocha is the best in the gift of the Imaum; not from the salary, which is trifling, but from the large sums which he is able to squeeze from the Banians, and foreign merchants. The present Dola was a slave of the Vizier, but in consideration of his good conduct, he has received a title from the Imaum, and with it his freedom. He is avaricious and tyrannical; but he has realised a considerable revenue for the Imaum, as well as secured a great treasure for himself. He invented a new method of extorting money from the Banians, by confining them in a room, and fumigating them with sulphur, till they

com

could, and would fight: a fact which Mr Pringle had found it impossible to make them credit.

A calm and moderate firmness would, I have no doubt, easily procure, for Christians in Arabia, every immunity and privilege which, as strangers, they could require. A single ship of war could at any time stop, not only the whole trade of Moclia, but also the necessary supplies of provisions from Berbera. This would force a compliance with the reasonable demand, that the deserters should be given up; and this once done, the idea of impunity would be done away, and not a seaman would ever afterwards place any confidence in their threats. A disgraceful prohibition also ought to be removed; a Christian is not permitted to go out at the Mecca gate, although Jews and BaThis is the more singular, as the two latter are considered by Mussulmauns as inferior in character to the former, the Jews not believing in Christ, nor the Banians in Moses or Christ, who are both revered by the followers of Mahommed.

nians are.

The British factory, though one of the best houses in the town, has many inconveniences, independently of its construction, the chief of which is its vicinity to the Dola's stables, where the asses keep up an incessant braying, particularly if any noise in the night excite their attention. The horses are, in the day time, brought out in to the streets, where they are fastened by their hind legs with chains to the ground, and by the head to the wall, so that it requires some precaution to pass between them, and to enter the gates of the factory, from the crowd of children belonging to the stable-keepers, who demand, rather than petition for charity. The horses of Arabia are celebrated for their superior qualities, and certainly I saw some at Mocha of uncommon beauty, particularly about the head and neck. The I

m is the only horse-dealer in his do.

minions, and these were his property, being sent down to Mocha for sale. The price rarely exceeds one thousand dollars. The Arab system of riding totally destroys a horse in a very short time. He is taught only to walk, canter, or gallop, as at the menage; and when at full speed is made to stop short by means of a strong bit, which ruins his mouth in a year or two, while the force employed throws him on his haunches, and very frequently founders him at an early age. The asses are of two species, the one has a stripe of black down the shoulders, and cross bands of black on the legs; the other is like the Spanish, and as fine a breed; the mules are consequently very handsome.

Coffee is the only article of trade produced in Arabia, and formerly the whole of this was carried from Loheia, by dows to Jidda, and thence either by the caravan of pilgrims to Constantinople, or, in large Turkish vessels by sea, to Suez, and across Egypt to Alexandria; whence it found its way to every part of Europe. As early, however, as the beginning of the last century, the large European vessels began to carry the coffee round the Cape of Good Hope; which so much reduced the duties in Egypt, that the Porte sent an embassy to Sana to complain of this new system of trade, and to request that no coffee might be exported except through Egypt. The average quantity, that annually went up to Jidda, was about sixteen thousand bales till the year 1803, when a single American ship appeared, and by the great profit of her voyage, induced so many others to follow her example, that the quantity sent to Egypt was reduced nearly one half. Previously to this event the Porte seems to have had little cause of complaint against the European merchants, as will appear from the following account of the quantity of coffee exported by them during the eight years prior to 1803.